Car died while driving. Wont start. No cluster lights.

This is a really odd scenario. When I turn the key to ON, I no longer get any instrument panel lights. The car will crank but won’t turn over… just keeps trying. Mechanic is saying there is no spark. Rules out ignition coil, igniter, ecu, mainfuel relay. Next up is the ignition switch, but it was replaced about 6 years ago. I’m having a hard time thinking it is the switch because it isn’t “old”, but stranger things have happened. Does anyone else have any thoughts?

Thanks.

All the fuses are good? I will check out a schematic of the electrical system and get back to you. There are only so many things connected to cluster illumination, power.

Have you checked your battery?

So it looks like the ignition switch fixed the cluster lights, but apparently the starting problem was because of an incorrect timing belt. Something about how I gave the mechanic the wrong timing belt even though I asked them to check it out first. It was a genuine Honda part, and I ordered the correct one (the part number rolled over to another, but it still is valid). The timing belt that is on the car now (bad one) is apparently for a G3 GS-R. Mechanic states that it’s “just enough” off for the engine to not run quite right. Perhaps the constant starting without turning over actually put stress on the belt? Apparently the crank key is also broken now too.

This just sounds fishy to me. I printed out the receipt of the part #s for the timing belt I ordered from Honda, so if that matches what’s on the car, then I’m thinking it’s an install error, and I’m going to insist on only certain people working on my car from now on. This shop has been having issues with the “young guys” not understanding how the older cars work.

Either that, or we’re done with this shop after 5 years of decent service.

Sigh… it’s always something.

Bet he didn’t torque the tensioner properly and it jumped a tooth on one of the cams. Hope your valves are not bent. At least the guy who did your last timing belt did it right! Next time bring it back to my house!

What are the part numbers? How long ago was the belt replaced? This seems really fishy to me. I would think the belt shouldn’t fit if it’s the wrong one. And even if they did get it to fit it should have had this problem from the get-go, it shouldn’t have ran fine then stopped running randomly later on (unless the belt skipped a tooth - but even then the car should fire if it’s off a couple teeth). Best I can tell the B18C belt is longer than the B18A belt. So, I would assume you would not be able to properly time or tension a B18C belt on a B18A. Of course if you’re not familiar with Hondas you may not know that you’re not getting the appropriate tension. If you’re a very unexperienced mechanic or just not careful you may even be able to time the engine and know know it’s a bit off. But I’d think this should be noticeable.

If there was a problem with the belt and your engine was not properly mechanically timed then you should perform a leakdown test to make sure none of the valves are bent.

Also, you’re getting conflicting info from your mechanic. First he says you’re not getting spark then he tells you it’s a problem with the belt. If the problem was only the belt, then you should have still be getting spark originally.

Pics of the broken crank key? That should definitely not happen and sounds to me like installer error. The belt should fail before the key so if the belt is causing problems it will shred, snap, shear off teeth…etc before your woodruff key becomes damaged.

What’s the current status? Did you get another belt put on? I wouldn’t be surprised if this was only the ignition switch and the belt was fine (assuming you have him the right belt). Or he could be telling you that the belt was wrong, when it wasn’t, to cover up a mistake he made. I hate to jump to conclusions that the mechanic is pulling a fast one and maybe more info would illuminate the truth, but this whole situation definitely sounds fishy.

You know… I just ended up cutting my losses and paid for the work. It sucks because I really liked this mechanic, but I feel really screwed over. I have been noticing the quality of work has been dropping as of late. I don’t have proof of the belt, or anything. It’s obvious that he didn’t check the part number when I asked him to (because I don’t screw around with timing belts). But I just don’t have time to be dicking around with people. Not with a demanding job and a family, and without much evidence to back my case up. Moving on. Lost my business.

Thanks for thinking about it. :dunno::surrend: