My cars idle is going down so far that the bayyery light is coming on. My deck started to flash at first and it started to cut out. It almost started to kill itself. If I leave the lights on at a gas station the battery kills itself just going into pay and back out. If I don’t satrt to the afternoon it doesn’t want to start right away. Today it wouldn’t start for a couple of seconds then it finaaly started. I drove it to the gas station today, and right after I got my gas I tried to start it but it wouldn’t start. I had to have my girl come down and jump me. it started right away. Any help you guys could give me would be helpful. I think its either the battery or alternator but never had any of these probs before.
If your battery light came on, it’s your alternator or alternator belt. Check the belt first. A good test to see if you alternator is screwed is to put a multimeter between the pos. and neg. battery terminals. If you read around 14vdc, your alternator is not the problem. If it reads under 13.5vdc, your alternator is going out. Time to replace. And chances are if you have been driving around like that, it has toasted your battery as well. Unless you have a dry cell. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Cool thanks. I’ll try it tomorrow. This has happened for the last couple of days. I haven’t started since three oclock. I just tried to start it and it doesn’t want to start the greatest. I will probably have to jump it in the morning tanks for the help I’ll let you know how it turns out. Thanks
MIke
What’s the typical useful life of Honda alternators? From my experience they seem to enter the final stage of descent after 9 years regardless of mileage. Anyone else have experience with this?
It really varies from car to car. A few things can contribute to premature failure. Things such as:
Climate/Corrosion
Excessive Belt Tension
Constant high rpm driving
But on average, I would say an alternator should last at least 8 years. Alternator brushes wear out after time. Can’t stop that from happening.
Well guys, my Teg is 93. It’s been with me now for 3 Month. It has now 75K KM on it. My right hand inner AND out CV joints just gave away. My radiator blew up last month. My clutch is hard, vibrates on engagment at high rpm and makes a small clicking sound everytime I engage it. Two of my engine mounts are gone. The steering makes a knocking sound whenever I go over small bumps. Finally, my o2 sensor and the speed sensor on the power steering is gone!!! All of this happened in the past 3 month!!!
I purchased the car from this honest-to-god doctor with a full maintenance record at Honda every 10’000 KM! I checked at the honda dealership and they gave me perfect! So far I have changed the radiotor, trailer arm bushings, new H&R Springs, thermostat and coolant, drained the braking flued and changed + bleeded the system. Changed gear oil…
Damn, I’m very very disappointed! I have a G3 teg with 72K KM on it and it is running perfect (the distributor is noise, replacement soon). I had a del sol that I really trashed around and never gave me so much problems…
Is it my, my driving, my honda, or are these tegs not just as realiable as I thought them to be???
<<sorry for the big post, but it’s the frustration>>
Well, being that you bought the car used, there were most likely problems when you first bought it. Was the radiator fluid ever changed? What about the axles? Bushings go bad, you’ll notice when your G3 gets old they will too. But work through the problems, and eventually it will be more reliable than the G3. Mechanical parts fail after time, it’s a fact of life. Wouldn’t it be great if they didn’t though? :p.
Damn Armandy, you must’ve gotten a runt…I bag on my teg and had NO significant problems…(went through 3 CV joints in 2 months due to defective remanufactured joints…2 of them…but otherwise no problems)
I’ve put almost 60,000kms on it…
oh burning a bit of oil due to worn valve seals…but this is due to a head swap, and the installation of the valve seals after a 3 angle job wasn’t good…
but basically on original complete motor I had NO problems.
Well guys, I’m sorry for sounding so frustrated. Honestly I’m a little bit. You see when I got the car 3 month ago, I checked the car @ honda dealership for the cost of 80 US$ (complete check) and the report with the history of the car came out perfect.
Anyhow, I lost the power steering speed sensor and the O2 sensor right about the same time! I think I took the car for a full wash (engine and under) and discovered that it has never been fully washed for at least 2 years or more. Then the axel cracked… followed by the radiator. The coolant was very old so the first thing I did when I got the car was drain the coolant and installl a new thermo (stuck open).
Anyhow, I do suspect that I’m harsh on my car; I mean I drive fast. Not in the sense that I drive 180 mph, but I’m fast in corners and love to accelerate. So I’m begging to think it may be my driving style. This car was driven very lightly before me and maybe just when I started pushing the mechanics to the limits the age got the better part of them.
I still love my G2 honestly, and the interior is much much better than the G3 but the steering in the G3 is great.
I’ll be working on my G2 slowly (me and my Haynes manual) 
If it wasn’t for this site and u guys, I would have never purchased it! I have a passion when it comes to cars, if I don’t find it in the car, I’ll never buy even if it is the sweetest deal of my life!!!
I’ll be posting in the future about my progress… thanks for the support…
Originally posted by G2guru
If your battery light came on, it’s your alternator or alternator belt. Check the belt first. A good test to see if you alternator is screwed is to put a multimeter between the pos. and neg. battery terminals. If you read around 14vdc, your alternator is not the problem. If it reads under 13.5vdc, your alternator is going out. Time to replace. And chances are if you have been driving around like that, it has toasted your battery as well. Unless you have a dry cell. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Are you supposed to do that test with the car on or off, or does it matter?
Re: car idle.
Originally posted by 2nd2None
My cars idle is going down so far that the bayyery light is coming on. My deck started to flash at first and it started to cut out. It almost started to kill itself. If I leave the lights on at a gas station the battery kills itself just going into pay and back out. If I don’t satrt to the afternoon it doesn’t want to start right away. Today it wouldn’t start for a couple of seconds then it finaaly started. I drove it to the gas station today, and right after I got my gas I tried to start it but it wouldn’t start. I had to have my girl come down and jump me. it started right away. Any help you guys could give me would be helpful. I think its either the battery or alternator but never had any of these probs before.
my car was a little hard to start if it sat in a parking lot or something for an extended period of time… then after the fiasco with my mom and the club bar it starts right up… the entire time it was parked in the school parking lot and not moved (2 or 3 days) the spark plug wires were disconnected from the distributor… when i reconnected them it started up like it was brand new… anyone have an explanation… before the incident if i didnt drive it for 3 days straight it would have taken a while to kick over