distributor-king
Yeah distributor king looks like a good place to order from. Wish i knew this place was around when i got mine.
na i havent fixed it yett this coldd and snow is too much plus i had the flu…but MY ECU was giving me code 15 so it has to be the coil or ignitor… i tested the ignitor and it failed the test…hopefully a new distribuytor solves this keep yall posted
you can replace just the ignitor
but first, when the problem occurs, test for power for the icm at the distributor. the problem may not be the actual icm. could be anything between the icm and main relay. in fact, it probably is. seeing as how you’ve replaced the distributor 3 times and the problem still persists
The PGM-FI Main Relay has nothing to do with the ICM, power for the ICM is supplied by the ign. switch, [black/yellow lead at distributor assembly] the PGM-FI Main Relay supplies power to the fuel pump, [fuel pump relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay] the injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay supplies power to, one side of fuel pump relays coil, the injectors, the ECU/ECM, a few engine valve/solenoids.
Problems with the PGM-FI Main Relay are common on older Honda/Acura… http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
If engine just cuts out, no “sputtering” it is unlikely a fuel pump issue, as fuel pressure would drop “slowly” and engine would “sputter” to a stop, not just cut out, however the problem may still be related to the PGM-FI Main Relay, if injector relay has a problem the fuel to cylinders would be cut off instantly. 94
^^my apologies, i hadn’t actually understood completely the full functions of the pgm-fi relay when i posted and was just going by a previous post. that is a great link right there on explaining the operation of a properly functioning AND failed relay.
so the only relevance the main relay has to the distributor is through the ecm to the ckp sensor?
he’s getting a code for the icm though. he’s changed the distributor 3 times. possibly ignition switch? i’d strongly consider the possibility of a wiring issue as well
i’d check for voltage at the icm when the problem is occurring before simply assuming it is a bad icm
im in a hole guys i just got the new distributor… cranks but no sparkk… i have to test the coil and ignitor but im definately getting no spark…there is fuel and air…soo 
so i read a no spark condition can allso be the ignition switch…anyone know of any walkthroughs on how to ddisassemble and clean them
by now it should be painfully obvious that you need to stop assuming and start testing. don’t just pull the switch and clean it. if it’s not the problem, it’s a waste of time. when the problem occurs, test for power at the switch.
Soo i got my new distributtor but still no sparkk…i clean my ign switch just for the hell of it…this crap is mmaking no sense.wa testtt can i do besides the coil n igniter test…I ONLY HAVE A TEST LIGHT NO DMM
with the problem occurring, when you turn the key to crank, then let it back to the II position, do the dash lights immediately go out? or do they stay lit for a couple seconds?
thhey stay litt
alright. ig2 should be fine.
check for voltage at the icm (going to refrain from saying “when the problem is occurring” now, as i’m sure it’s obvious)
you can run the ecu “k-test”. but you’ll need a dmm
okk ill see if i can get my hands on one at school tomoro…but whats a k ecu test
key on. unplug map sensor. check for 5v at map reference pin. should be the one on the right side if you’re facing the front of the connector. make sure the battery is fully charged as well. you should see 5v at that pin
okay guys i fell really stupidd considering ive taken off my distributor so many times youd think id know how to put it back on the right way…soo the splines that go into the crankshaft from the distributor i put it in the wrong way thats why my cars wasnt starting -___-…ugh so stupidd of me
i thought b series distributors only go in 1 way. regardless, you would have still gotten spark
I just gotta do my ignition timing bcz its running shitty
but i don’t get it. you said you weren’t getting spark