Wassup g2…i have an annoying problem that ove been trying to solve for the longest. Its kinda sad that i go to lincoln tech institute and none of the teachers can figure out the problem…either there freaking lazy or there jus really stupid…
The problem: So my car starts fine in the morning and then if i drive it around for like say 10min 2o min. The car just shuts off…no bogs no struggle jus shuts off…i go to try to start it but it just cranks but doesnt start. But if i wait like 5min and then try starting it again it will crank and start but then will shut off in a window from 2min to 15min…then the same process i will have to do over and over…
Things i have changed that mightve been the problem
ignition coil
ignitor
main fuel relay
fuel filter
spark plugs n wires
checked the ign timing and belt timing
then i changed my distributor 3 times to make sure they werent defected…
I make sure to hear the relay click when the key is turned to on and then turned over which i hear…i also hear my fuel pump priming so i dont think its that
this is really annooying a mechanic told me its probably my ecu or distributorand i told him i changed the DISTRIBUTOR 3 times. So leaves me with changing my ecu which i havent done yet…
Are 1990’s integras KnoWN for this problem?? Please help not even a japanese mechanic can tell me whats wrong with my car
DO YOU THINK THAT SINCE I CHANGED THE DISTRIBUTOR 3 TIMES THIS IGNITOR IS FRIED??
a clogged cat I dont think will make the car turn of but it will make it have no power as that happen to a friends car…So let see next time it does it there is a little bolt of the fuel filter take that off an try an start it see if there is fuel getting to the motor when the problem happens…an I also would try the ecu now 90 an 91 ecu are different as 90 has a external sensor on the kick plate above the seatbelt computer an 91 is built in to the car
If the cat is clogged bad enough,it will kill the car. When the cat heats up,the crap clogging it will make to much back pressure. But yeah,see if the engine is getting fuel as well.
like they both stated above, check to see if you are getting fuel! um you may hear your fuel pump prime and all maybe the fuel pump is not pumping enough gas. it happen to me, i do hear fuel pump prime but there was not enough gas being pump through to the fuel rail. So after i swap the fuel pump, its fine now. I did went through what you did too, from the distributor, fuel filter and main relay. Now all that parts I got for it is now extra lol. So yeah I would check for fuel
yess i did i have fuel…still dont know whats wrong i hope its not the ecu and im checking all this other crap…i dont wanna buy one then swap it and then find out the ecu wasnt the problem im tired of spending money already to figure wats rong\
it’s likely an electrical problem. heat causes resistance and vise versa.
first thing you’ll need to determine is whether this is a fuel related issue or whether it’s ignition in order to further diagnose.
there are 2 ways to do this.
install a fuel pressure gauge. run the car, paying close attention to the gauge. if fuel pressure drops out BEFORE the car dies, you have a fuel related issue. if not, it’s likely ignition related.
immediately after the car dies, check for spark. then fuel.
i like test 1 better because it’s real time, and you’re not scrambling to test in a small window of time.
after you’ve determined the relation of the issue, you can further pin point. it’s not difficult. just need direction
how did you check that you have fuel? you might hear the pump is priming and your getting fuel pressure intialy, but its not a sure sign the pump is good. welfare’s got some good suggestions, check that out and post your results
^^which reminds me though, testing pressure at the filter/rail isn’t completely accurate, as you may be getting pressure, but not pulse from the injectors.
could even be the resistor box.
but yea, i’d try the pressure test first
I had this happen 4 times in 4 years. The last time this happened, it was not the ICM (ignitor). It was the MFR (Master Fuel Relay), which powers the ICM. It had a cold solder on it. I pulled it out (it’s under the dash brownish-red relay above your left leg) resoldered the connections, and cleaned the contacts. 3 years later (I was eating an ICM every year) I have not had to replace the ICM.
I am not saying this is your problem, but my DB1 stopped eating ICMs yearly after I resoldered and cleaned the MFR. I no longer own the car, I sold it to a friend, who still owns it, and I get the pleasure of working on it when it has issues (so far, just a retune to get it to pass emissions).
im saying its this becuase my ECU is giving me code 15 wich is the ignition coil or ignitor…plus ive read that many auto parts stores use cheap electronic parts for the ignitors n coils…i read that NEC and HITACHI ARE ONE OF THE BEST BRANDS TO GO WITH