Car wont start: IN hot weather only...

Ok guys… I know I might get flamed for not doin a search, but I did a search and couldn’t find anything to what my situation is. First things first… My MFR and fuel pump DO work when I turn the key, starter and battery was replaced lil over a year ago. My problem is when my car sits at work, especially on those warmer days, my car will crank but will not fire up. On occasion, I have to take my intake tube off and spray startin fluid in order to get it started… which is embarassing when I have to do this @ work. Has anyone had this type of problem before. Could it be a sign that my original fuel pump might be showing signs of goin out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

that sounds like a good sign that ur fuel pump isn’t priming. replace ur supposedly “good mfr” AND your distributor at the same time. cuz if its both and u change out just 1 thing… like ur mfr… u’ll get mislead and u might return the mfr, even tho it is also bad. so if u change both out with known good ones, that’ll help eliminate whether it is the problem or not.

sounds like its your main fuel relay, had the same problem changed it and worked like a champ. if i remember correctly i read in the teg tips, its something about the solder heating up and getting weak/ not good connection.

Guys, I’ve got something quite similar related to hot days, if the car has been sitting for a long time. If I start the car it’ll idle for a few seconds then die. If I try to start it up again it won’t start, the only way I can get around the problem is to wait a few mins (5 to be safe) then it’ll start again, but this time I give it some gas so it won’t die.

could be a combination of ur mfr and ur distributor going out. change them both out at the same time. if u inspect ur cap n rotor, and look into the distributor, i’m pretty sure u’ll see some cracks along the black housing of the ignitor. check all those connections to the distributor tho, and clean them up, and use a tiny bit of die-electric grease on the contact points. tighten the screws down, clean up ur cap n rotor, and see if that holds u over for a while. regarding ur mfr… listen to see if ur fuel pump is priming when u put the key to the on position. it should beep 3 times then make a clicking sound coming from the dash. u should hear a the fuel pump priming from either the back seat or from outside the car near the fuel door. u can also have a person helping u by listening for that sound while u are inside listening for the relay to click. if its hard for that person to hear the pump priming remove the gas cap and that’ll help a bit too.

i had that problem jus change the main relay and you should be good go to the dealer its cheap about 40-50 bucks its worth it

u were lucky… u ain’t even at this guy’s car and you’re assuming that its just the mfr. could be the distributor too. the symptoms are very similar from both. especially when you’ve had them all occur to u. but diagnosing it is different cuz u gotta listen n check for certain things.

I think its ur MFR; my wife’s car did the same thing. A free fix: take your MFR, and resolder all the joints.

I did that for my wife’s DA, and never had a problem ever since.

Do that first then go from there, after all its free.

[QUOTE=E-DA9;2038120]I think its ur MFR; my wife’s car did the same thing. A free fix: take your MFR, and resolder all the joints.

I did that for my wife’s DA, and never had a problem ever since.

Do that first then go from there, after all its free.[/QUOTE]

Ok a few questions.

  • Where is the MFR located?
  • You lost me when you said resolder all the joints, you mean on the back of the PC board? (I’ve been reading some threads regarding the MFR)

A bit more light on this free fix would be great!

Sorry for being a noobie.

Main Fuel relay is bolted onto the back of the intake manifold.



thats the IACV

^ that is correct. it is not on the intake manifold that’s for sure.

I have a perfect working main fuel relay 28 sihipped lmk my email is

if u know how to solder, most ppl resolder the mfr’s themselves. or buy used/bad ones and resolder them. thats what i do. sometimes i buy them if they’re only like $5. u can find some on the for sale section usually for like $10 too. so yeah. not trying to cash block u tho man. sometimes… you’re car starting at very important times is worth that much sometimes even more.

Oh whoops… Had a blonde moment.

Main fuel relay is behind the dash board.

trust me its the main relay

trust u? lol. u must have some mad skills to be able to tell whether his fuel pump is priming or not considering he didn’t say it did or not. u never know it could be the mfr, distributor, fuel pump or it could be a few other things. thing is that u can’t just say “trust me its the main relay.” without even trying to properly assess what is going on. do u know how many members on here have similar issues and how many it ends up being the mfr? snap into reality. have u even soldered/repaired an mfr yet? spend $40-50 bucks…pssshhh. buy some rosin core and a soldering iron. and u can fix that and any da/ef mfr for the rest of ur life for way less than even $40.

just so most know… when u have to give it gas so that the car won’t die after its had issues starting… does not make it strictly an mfr issue. ur mfr does 2 things, it operates the fuel pump and powers the injectors. if u had to keep on the gas to keep the car from running… what or where does that sound like a mfr issue? azzurribaggio steps on the gas… that provides more air into the motor, which in turn does give it more gas… (some will think THERE thats why, but no). in by giving the car more air and gas it gives the motor the chance to ignite it cuz the timing is off. the more u throw in there it is bound to ignite eventually even if its mistimed unless its extremely off of timing. in short, the distributor is acting up and can’t throw spark into the right cylinder at the right time. so giving it more air and gas helps it stay alive. but when doing so the added air and gas doesn’t make the motor respond like it should with a good working motor.

if anybody wants to know how the mfr works. u can read this article. its pretty detailed and has good schematic drawings that are pretty accurate on how a mfr works. might not be exactly like our mfr but u get the idea.

well guys guess what the gsr has started the crap… past 2 days i come out from work and it just cranks… i leave the key on for like 30 seconds itll fire right up… so odd kinda like something inside has to get juice or something… u can crank it forever does nothing… but stop cranking sit for like 30-60seconds starts right up any input?.. fuel pump going bad?? have started to notice it gets hessitant around 4k as well till vtec kicks in comes right outta it… dont understand… poor teggies always having some problem,

need more info on ur issue. u gotta let us know if the mfr is doing the 3 clicks. also u gotta let us know if the fuel pump is priming. if it only happened 2 days ago, and only happened that time, then its in its early stages. i suggest that u replace ur mfr or resolder it anyways. most likely its building up a good amount of resistance due to the cracks or there is an open… or that the coils within are taking a while to energize and get that relay to close up on certain points in the circuit.