My 92 was shutting off for a fraction of a second while driving a while back and now will not start at all. It looks like its spark related - how can I narrow down the culprits of ICM, ignitor, ignition coil, ignition switch, etc without having to purchase them all one at a time?
What exactly is it doing when you try to start it now? Does it turn over?
It just cranks and cranks. At first I thought it was fuel related but after a new filter, MFR, and some searching, I think it might be spark.
I had this same thing happen to me awhile back, and most of the time its either an ignition coil or igniter. To be sure I borrowed a friends spare distributor and it started right up (therefore I knew something in my distributor was bad) I bought a new ignition coil and it didn’t fix it, I got a new igniter and it fired up right up!
Might just buy all the parts in question (ICM, igniter, ignition coil, etc) test them one at a time, and then return all the parts I didn’t need… any other way to go about this?
You could do that or borrow a friends obd1 distributor and test it, otherwise you could buy the parts seperately and return what you don’t need… but those are all good things to replace to avoid problems down the line though!
I just want to give you a head up. Most Auto stores will not except any return that are electrical related. The most comment problem with integra distributor is the coil. if you have a multimeter you can measure the resistance of your coil. You will need to measure the primary winding and the secordary winding of the coil. The range for the primary winding is 0.6 to 0.8 ohm and the secondary winding is 12.8 to 19.2 kilohms. If they are within range then you can just get an igniter. I hope this help.
I replaced the coil, ignitor (aka ICM), and MFR, and still nothing. Added starting fluid to the TB and cranked [nothing] and did the ole screwdriver in the spark plug wire next to a ground [no spark]. So I know its electrical … all that seems thats left (already got a new battery and starter) is the ignition switch and basically buying a whole new distributor. Is there any way to test these things with a multimeter before buying blindly?
This might be a silly question but did you purchase new parts and from where? New parts doesn’t equal good parts either. You also wanna make sure your cap and rotor are in good condition.
Before you replace any more parts, make sure there is power going to the distributor assembly, [black/yellow] when ign. switch is in run AND start.
Ign. switch problems are common on older Honda/Acura, again, power at the black/yellow with ign. both on and when cranking to start. 94