One day, my car just stopped starting. The night before my car was driving great, no bogging or anything like that. The next morning I tried to start my car and it would just crank and not turn over. N
Generally when this happens, I can have the car jumped and it’ll start up, and drive fine, unfortunately that didn’t work this time.
A friend and I tried to pop the clutch and that wouldn’t work either. So after some research I figured it was the main fuel relay (MFR). Replaced that with a brand new one from Acura, and that didn’t do the trick.
This was about a week ago, I wasn’t getting a spark at the time.
Soon after, I figured it was my distributor, I bought a used one on Honda-Tech, replaced it, and i’m still not getting a spark from what I can tell. I had the coil checked at Autozone, and the guy said its fine. It seems that my car is RIGHT on the edge of starting sometimes. The only time it can crank hard is when i’m getting jumped by another car.
If I try to crank without a jump right now, it drains my battery EXTREMELY fast. I figured this is because the car hasn’t been driven for over a week.
I really need help guys, I can’t figure this out. My next step is to spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and try cranking. I’m out of ideas and have NO idea what to do.
All your blade fuses in the engine bay are ok? Check the connectors again on the distributor for bent pins and any ground you can get to clean them. Check your starter connections. Fouled spark plugs, cap and rotor carbon buildup are your worst enemy.
one thing i would check is crack open the ecu and check for marks or frying.
i had someone have the same problem on a EG (d15b vtec/p28 ecu). the car ran perfect but we were about to do a RPM drop test and rigt before we could even do anything it just died and would not start for crap. it wasnt throwing any codes but we hooked a scanner up to it and it showed it had a ingnition output signal code. well after teasting the coil in the distributor and replacing it just for the hell of it…nothing. well out of curiousity i checked the ecu and found that it was fried to crap. i asked my instructor and he said hes seen this happen before…
take the screws off the front and back (but be careful/no touchy the circuit board) and smell the cicuit board. it will have a distinct electrical burning smell (basically if you can smell anything weird). and if you do start looking for black/brown burn marks anywhere on the ecu.
how about ignition switch? I had an accord that once the ignition switch was somehow shorted and it drained the whole battery. unfortunatly I didn’t know much about cars at that time, so I only know it’s the ignition switch…
This is going to sound out in left field, but here goes. My old boss had a 90 LS that ran fine then one day wouldn’t start anymore. My first thought was the MFR, but that wasn’t it. Then the distributor, but that wasn’t it. I checked both fuel and spark and all was fine, so that leaves compression.
I pulled the valve cover and looked at the cam gears, one was 180* out of time. I reset the cam gears to TDC and it fired to life perfectly again, ran even better than before. Too bad he waited 6 weeks to call me over, he was bumming rides all that time. Pull the VC and check the alignment on the cam gears, if they are more than a couple teeth off, your car won’t run.
yeah its most liely ur timing dude the same shit happened to me awhile ago once i fixed the cam timing it was fine lookin if u have a haynes manual lookin it it it will tell u how to do it and while ur at it replace the timing belt and tensioner too cause they could be bad. it may seem a little hard at first it took me 3 day to do it right and now it takes me like 15 min lol i have done it alot…
Sure hope your timing belt isn’t broken then, cause you won’t get spark if it is. Since you have it narrowed down to a spark issue and you have checked the coil, I would say that it could be your IGNITOR.
And for an ECU check, when you go to start your car, does the CEL on the dash go out, or stay on continuously? If it stays on, you might have a bad ECU, especially since you already replaced your main fuel relay. Also check your ECU fuse.
Well based on the video it sounds like I have compression, so I don’t think my timing belt is bad.
The coil in my distributor is fine, I had it checked at an Autozone, but the guy said he couldn’t check the ignitor. I was thinking it was distributor related as well, but I don’t want to buy a new one until i’m sure of it.
if I put my key into the ignition and put it on III the CEL comes on if I dont try to start the car.
