just put a new check engine light bulb in and im getting a CEL, code says CYP Sensor.
searching forum for CYP sensor doesn’t help much, wont include the cyp part of it.
just wondering how to go about handling this, new distributor?
take the CEL bulb back out of the gauge cluster?
no clues here, take what i can get.
only thing(s) i can think of at the moment is a few months ago the rotor screw came loose. I’m about due for a new cap anyway but I’m wondering how far to go with this. last i checked the distributor was clean inside, no dust etc so I’m guessing the bearing is probably good.
i may have also messed up the connector while changing the thermostat recently or today while changing the speedo cable.
i will check that first… but not today. it is getting dark and i already did my speedometer cable today so my hands are shredded (big hands)
the cyp (crank position sensor) is located inside the distributor. non replaceable part. distributor would need to be changed if the problem is the actual sensor. how does it run? if it’s running fine, i’d clear the code and see if it comes back
runs fine, might be the occasional miss but i only notice at idle. if that’s even what it is, sounds like a very slight puff of air or backfire… hard to describe. Idle is stable, no ticks/clicks/squeeks or other noticeable noise.
car ran fine for the 280miles or so each way when we drove it from tallahassee to atlanta and back.
got ~25mpg on the trip there, it was windy as hell both ways. mileage was better on the way back with more air in the tires, closer to 30mpg. (it’s an automatic btw)
i tried clearing the code, not quite sure I’m doing it properly.
obviously i found the connector i needed to jump because i read the code, but aside from that im not too sure.
i pulled the 7.5 backup fuse for a few minutes with the car shut off and the CEL was still there with the same code.
ok. thought i could get around doing that, hate losing my radio stations and settings. no biggie.
i will work on it a bit tomorrow, probably just that connector. it was pretty brittle, i actually broke the clip off one while changing the thermostat.
I’m pretty beat up as it is, changed the thermostat in my car last week before the trip, had to remove my plug wires in atlanta because the plug tube gaskets went out and flooded the plug wells with oil and we still had to drive it home in time for work.
changed the radiator in my wifes car yesterday and for whatever fkn reason the overflow tank was full of clay, so was the engine and all the hoses to it took forever to flush it out. thing runs like brand new now, must have been taxing the water pump for it to have that kind of effect, cant even hear it running now.
the door lock rod clip broke in the driver side of her celica so i messed with that and couldnt fix it, then today i went to find a new clip and couldn’t find the right one (Sunday, so i didn’t even try the toyota dealer) couple small zip ties = temporary fix, put her door back together.
replaced the speedometer cable in my car and replaced some bulbs in my gauge cluster because both the bulbs above the speedo burnt out during the trip. well, one was already out. other was going out, didn’t always work.
ye that clay substance is from iron tight, or an equivalent cooling system sealer. i hate when people use that shit. once it’s in there, it’s a PITA to remove.
and hey, start wearing gloves, bud. i know it’s a PITA in the beginning, but once you get used to it you won’t wanna touch anything without them. i know some guys who’ve been in the trade for decades and still refuse to wear them.
all connectors seem to be fine, little brittle.
i unhooked the battery while i was tinkering with the connectors and the CEL/code was still there.
there is a little oil under the distributor but if my plug tube gaskets are shot the valve cover gasket is probably going that route too. along with the o-ring for the distributor itself.
if i can get my hands on a freebie known working 92LS distributor i will swap it out but i doubt I will be so lucky.
cant afford much right now broke as hell again and still need to buy the valve cover gasket set. money is very tight.
since I’m here… i know there is a difference between the 91 and 92 distributors, my car is a 92LS.
is there any reason a 93 ls/rs/gsr distributor wouldn’t work? any other year/model? just trying to get a grasp of what my used-replacement options are.
just looking around and not sure if this is a good replacement, but i need to save money wherever i can. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1992/acura/integra/engine_electrical/ignition_distributor.html
(1st one on page, or 5th one, not sure about the brands and don’t want to send mine back for core on a re-manufactured one.)
otherwise acuraoemparts.com/delray has the housing for 93 bucks and i know i will need more than that (seal/ring/cap/rotor at least, and no telling how my coil/igniter/etc is). rather replace it all in one shot if i can.
also, after changing distributor, will it need a timing adjustment? I don’t have the experience or equipment for that and it isn’t something i like to mess with either way.
I have never done it myself so i will do some reading on that and see what that involves, if its not too difficult i will work on getting a new distributor and timing light in a month or so. budget is super tight right now and i don’t drive the car a whole lot, as it is i need to put off ordering the VC gasket kit for a couple weeks.
also did a bit more reading on which distributors are compatible with a 92ls. if i read correctly 92 ls/rs/gs but not gsr.
not sure about year but it looks like 92 and 93 are different.
confirmation would be nice in case i find a part-out sale going on.
if someone has a known working distributor with no distributor related CEL codes i will gladly take it off your hands and do this much MUCH sooner. something to keep in mind.
adjusting the timing is cake bro…you will need a timing light…search google for ignition timing on 1990 integra… or youtube eric the car guy and he has a bunch of diff vids that he mostly works on g2’s and other hondas… i know how to go into detail for ignition timing but check that first visual is always easier
