hey, im trying to get my teg track ready and was wondering what kind of suspension set ups everyone is using. camber, spring rates, tires, wheels, weight, seats, cage, etc.
im waiting on my lower balljoints, bushings, control arms, and FF type 2 coils to be put in, 12k/10k spring rates 
any input would be awesome thanks in advance!
pic performance coilovers 12k/14k, Hancook R-S3 225/45/15, Kosei K1 wheels, Memory fab seats, no-cage(yet). Also have ST front sway bar, with a 24mm ASR rear sway bar. Back breaker on the drive to the tracks but its worth it haha. The car takes tall rumble strips without getting unstable. Predictable setup. oh yea and an LSD helps too
woops, my spring rates are 12/8. how do you like those k1’s, im thinking about getting a set and some star spec tires or something. i also see you from IL. where about?
K1s make great track wheels from what I gather… they look nice to boot 
My current setup:
Koni RACE shocks (custom from ProParts)
GC Coils (700f/600r) (these spring rates are conservative and I intend on changing them as I learn the car more)
ST front sway bar
Progress rear sway bar
Neuspeed front strut bar
Ogle rear strut bar
Ogle c-pillar bar
Full Race front crossmember
Autopower 4pt rollbar
195-55 Star Specs
15x7 +43mm Volk GRN-R
Vision front upper control arms
ES bushings all around
Mugen Trailing arm bushings (on DC2 trailing arms)
SPC toe links
SPC rear upper control arms
Cobra Monaco seats (I need new seats since these are too large for me)
Crow 5pt harnesses
Alignment (approx off the top of my head)
-3.25 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
0 toe rear
tinge toe “in” front
unknown caster (need to go to West End for a rea alignment still)
With about a half tank or more the car weighs 2350lbs in track trim.
Those RS3’s are AWESOME tires from what I’ve heard. They’d be my next purchase if I wasn’t limited to 215’s in my class. I’m not super impressed w/ the Star Specs, I’m looking forward to changing. I’ll probably opt for the RE-11’s.
Unless F&F has some new fancy coilovers I’d stay away from them, stick to something that’s been proven on the track.
im already locked in with these F/F coils, although theres no input on track use with the type 2, or any dyno sheet, i have faith. i mean im not building a strict track car, just wanna be able to have some fun at the open track days.
thanks for you hefty input list btw
I really like the K1s. They look good and I dont have to worry about destroying them since they are a cheaper wheel.
Im in the Chicago area.
im gonna save up for a few weeks and get some k1’s and do some research on what wheels fit me best. im in the south burbs, joliet area. havent had a lowered car through winter yet, well see how that goes
In my opinion a better wheel would be the enkei RPF1. a 15 by 7 is an unbeatable 9.7 lbs. A Kosei K1 is 13.5 lb at that size. I have a 15 by 8 inch rim with Hankook RS-3’s. Among the best autocrossers in the Nation RS-3’s are the preferred. Star specs are good too but the RS-3 has the same compound rubber all the way to the metal. The competition like the Dulops have a soft compound only on the outher half of the tire. Alot of racers shave these tires to get a few pounds of rubber off before a race and the RS-3’s lose minimal traction even being shaved. I love my set like no other. I hope they make RS-3’s forever. As far as everything else being said on this post. A full race cross member is by far the best, DO NOT CONSIDER other brands. Coilovers are a must, Koni yellows are a favorite but if you have unlimited budget than Teins are the REAL best setup. Control arms and sway bars all brands are an improvement. But coilovers and tires will be the most improvement you will see. After these upgrades are obtained the best way to improve is working on the driver. My first few autocross events I got blown away by more experienced drivers driving inferior vehicles. At one point I let an experienced driver drive my car with me in it. He beat my best time by 2.5 seconds with an extra person in the car (me) and it being the first time he drove my car. That inspired me and taught me the most valuable lesson. Dont go spend tons of money until you learn how to drive first. I know I know… You know how to drive already. Well I thought I did too just like everyone. But face it, You DONT!
i just got TRmotorsports C1 wheels, 15x7.5, (13 lbs) bridestone RE-11 tires and im loving them so far, i dont slide in the rain anymore LOL
Those RE11’s seem like great tires. The wet traction test I just read in GRM though placed the Star Specs higher in wet traction though. And there was another model that did better still, I just don’t remember off the top of my head.
i have the same magazine in my room somewhere, but with my old tires i would slide doing 15 around a corner. anything was an upgrade but these are sick
Scott when did you get the RS3s? When the hell am I going to get to see your car on the track?
circlejerk911 - you should consider the 24mm ASR swaybar. I think this bar was one of my best investments when I had my DA (I had PIC 10k/8k coilovers).
yeah my next step was gonna be sway bars, roll bar and subframe bracing. my names kyle by the way
Kyle, I think one mistake that about 95% of us make (including me) who go to the track is think our cars need to be setup completely before we even get any seat time. The best thing to do is get your car to a reliable point (brakes, bushings, no overheating, all maintenance up to date) and just get on the track like that. I wish I had followed this advice so I could have actually learned what parts I need to change on my car so it accommodates my driving style better and not vice versa. There’s a lot of seat time to be had around Chicago - even next Sat. there’s a event being held at Gingerman by ProFunction which is shop in Schaumburg that primarily works on Hondas.
thats probably the best advice ive ever heard, thats a good way to look at it. i got a friend who races a miata and he usually helps me out by letting me know how things may me or should be. i was trying to rush and get things done before the last track day at autobahn, by getting brake pads, new bushings in the rear and ball joints, but i came across wheels and tires and decided to lay low adn take my time. i really do wanna get on track and figure out what needs to be done though
SO true. It’s way smarter to start off as stock as possible, keep your skill level above the performance level of your car and only make the upgrades when it’s the car holding you back, not vice versa. Unfortunately most of us get interested in track days after we’ve been modding cars for awhile…
to be honest i didnt care or know about cars up until maybe 6 months ago. my friend took me for a ride in his miata and the rest is history. im glad everyone here has been in my footsteps and has such helpful advice. i can start off right!
[QUOTE=whoami;2231804]Scott when did you get the RS3s? When the hell am I going to get to see your car on the track?
circlejerk911 - you should consider the 24mm ASR swaybar. I think this bar was one of my best investments when I had my DA (I had PIC 10k/8k coilovers).[/QUOTE]
I ordered them beginning of the season. Didn’t show up for about 3 months until tirerack finally got the in stock in my size. Looks like the next time I get to see some track time is next season. I was so close to having it ready for WMHM but then the oil pump problem stopped me. Now all I need to do all winter is reinstall oil cooler and get a tune. I just want to make sure everything is dialed in. Engine failure at Autobahn got me worried about it happening somewhere really far away and having troubling getting the car back home.
hey do any if you guys run 18’’ wheels for track racing ??? because i found a sick deal on these mugen mag http://www.icbmotorsport.com/mugpfowhgunm1.html
i can get all 4 bran new in the box for 700$$