I’m assuming that my CV axle is about to go, from what I’ve read in the Help Forum… my question is, what happens if the axle does break or go or whatever term is used…
What kinda immediate threats am I looking at here? And also, what are the repair costs? MUCH HELP APPRECIATE! Thanks in advance!!! Happy New Year’s everyone!
Find a shop that rebuilds axles or sells/replaces axles. Don’t go to the dealer they’ll rape you $$$. Shouldn’t be too expensive, you should also be ok to drive as long as it hasn’t been clicking for a really long time. I would try to get it done in the next 2-3weeks though. You should be able to get rebuilts for around 80 and axle (just for the parts), I got my axles rebuilt for cheaper than that but consider myself pretty lucky.
Thanks for the quick reply B17… by the way, how often do axles go? The clicking just started after I installed my short shifter, which was last nite… odd?
Mine has clicked on extreme turns for years with no problems whatsoever as a result. I’m sure that my CV is slowing dying but it takes a long, long time. I had the dealer replace all 4 CV boots about 5 years ago when they were all leaking, but the joints are original to the 175,000 mile car. I disagree about the comment regarding dealers, in my experience having your G2 serviced at the dealer saves a lot of hassle and mistreatment of your car. Of course it costs more, so if you are extremely cost-sensitive (read:a penniless teenager living with his parents) then go wherever.
just replace the axle, get it at oreillys for 60 bucks with the trade of ur old one
Hey fellas, I’m kinda having the same problem except that I hear a sound ( kinda clicking, but not really, hard to explain) coming from the pass. side front. When I am stopped or very slowly moving while turning the wheel it does it, it actually sounds like something is sort of rubbing. I checked and nothing rubs. It never does it when I am driving though. Any help would be appreciated
worsee case scenario your axle breeaks, and then your transmission has no conneection to your wheels, therefore you don’t move.
Originally posted by E-DA9
worsee case scenario your axle breeaks, and then your transmission has no conneection to your wheels, therefore you don’t move.
LOL Max! I love the way you so bluntly put it =)
Alright, here’s the update. The clicking ONLY happens when I jerk the wheel the right OR turn hard while engaging the gear… I turn ever so soft on right turns now, as I have accustomized (is that a word?) myself to doing so…
Now, what exactly needs to be fixed? Is it the actual AXLE or is it the CV boots… any insight? I know its hard to answer because this is over the internet… but maybe, just a list of what might need fixing might help out?
THANK YOU for all of your help and input guys!!!
ok to change axle.
parts needed
1 new or reman axle shaft
couple cotter pins
tools needed
1 5-8 lb hammer
1 17mm socket (3/8 or 1/2 ur choice)
1 lug wrench or 19mm with rachet
1 jack
1 maybe 2 jackstands
1 dykes or cutters or a pair of pliers
1 i axle nut socket (depends what the size is 30mm, 32mm, or 34mm)
1 pry bar
jack the side u want done, then take the wheel off. their should be cotter pins on the tie rod end and the lower ball joint. take those cotter pins out with the pliers or cutters. then take the 17mm socket and take those nuts loose, then use the hammer to beat it loose( hit the tie rod end on the side same with the lower ball joint) DONT HIT THE THREADS!!! (IF U DO U MAY END UP REPLACING THEM!!!) then take the axle nuts off. if the ball joint is loose then pull the spindle out, the shaft shoud come apart from the hub. take a pry bar and loosen it from the tranny. take the new one and put it in and put everything back in place. replace the cotter pins with the new ones if u want( not a have to if the old ones are still of use) try it and let me kno how it goes. it takes me about 10-15 mins cuzz i done them before but may take u a lil bit longer.
I’ve been driving on my passenger side crap axle for many a year and a few months now. No biggy. If it breaks, it breaks. The replacements at autozone are 55 bucks with lifetime warranty.
lets say ur with ur girlfriend and as ur driving around with ur boys and ur axle decides to give wouldnt u b assed out??? then u gotta tow it some where to get another one on. not to mention if ur cars dropped u got rims and a kit. u decide what u want to do.
hahahahhahhahahahhahahahahahhahahahahhhahahahhaaaa
Originally posted by concacg2teg
lets say ur with ur girlfriend and as ur driving around with ur boys and ur axle decides to give wouldnt u b assed out??? then u gotta tow it some where to get another one on. not to mention if ur cars dropped u got rims and a kit. u decide what u want to do.
hahahahhahhahahahhahahahahahhahahahahhhahahahhaaaa
UPDATE: January 29th, 2002
Okay. I haven’t been able to look under the car cuz I’m too damn lazy and the weather is… let’s say… FRICKEN DAMN COLD!
Soooooo…
I realized I might have described the problem the wrong way…
Here’s what I hear:
I begin to turn the wheel and about 1/2 a turn to the right, there is this “CLUNK” from underneath the car “somwhere”… as I continue to turn, there are no more sounds… however when I am finished the turn and begin to straighten, about 1/2 a turn again (this time countersteering) the CLUNK will happen once more… but that’s it.
So basically, in a right hand turn, I will have 2 clunks. One making the turn and one straightening out the turn.
Oh BTW. This only started happening AFTER I installed my short shifter.
Thanks in advance for any advice/guidance you guys can give me (and YES i know I should be jacking up the car and checking myself but its cold!!!)
Alright I jacked up the car but I have no clue what I’m looking for. Anyone?
Ever since I lower my car 1.8 inches I get the underbody checked every year.I have noticed that the boots are being damaged regularly.When I change from snows to summer I check the wheel wells for grease and inspect the boots for cracks.I also get my mechanic to give them a throrough check.I think because the car is lowered and the way that I drive in the winter they are getting pounded by the snow banks(I love to drive in the snow).
Not sure what exactly to look for but I had my axles break 4 times over 2 months/10,000 KMs it sucks and I had no warning noise or my exhaust hid it.
Nothing better than cleaning your car up and on your first turn you hear knocking from the axle flopping around and your stranded. Thank goodness for CAA.
look at the boots and see if there are any rips or cracks in them. if it clicks there should be grease all over everything around the boot.you can get a new cv shaft from advanced auto parts for around 90 bucks or you can get the reconditioned ones for around 65. i would go with the new one sense i have a new one on my drivers side(replaced 9 months a go) and a reconditioned one on the passenger side(replaced 3 months a go) and the reconditioned one is already starting to leak a little grease while the new one is still in perfect condition
Originally posted by Scrapin’tegra
Hey fellas, I’m kinda having the same problem except that I hear a sound ( kinda clicking, but not really, hard to explain) coming from the pass. side front. When I am stopped or very slowly moving while turning the wheel it does it, it actually sounds like something is sort of rubbing. I checked and nothing rubs. It never does it when I am driving though. Any help would be appreciated
I’d check your wheel bearings.
worsee case scenario your axle breeaks, and then your transmission has no conneection to your wheels, therefore you don’t move.
If the bearings freeze, you could strip out all of the splines.
I begin to turn the wheel and about 1/2 a turn to the right, there is this “CLUNK” from underneath the car “somwhere”… as I continue to turn, there are no more sounds… however when I am finished the turn and begin to straighten, about 1/2 a turn again (this time countersteering) the CLUNK will happen once more… but that’s it.
So basically, in a right hand turn, I will have 2 clunks. One making the turn and one straightening out the turn.
You may also want to try checking the heat shields around your front rotors. This is just because you describe this as a clunk and it is steering related. Sometimes they get bent and the tie rod will hit them (clunk), compress, then uncompress (clunk) when you take a turn.
or be like a cheap bastard like me and just lube it up and tape it away. this is my 2nd try and i think its leaking again. my 3rd attempt will be the winner haha
i just hate the idea of having to fork out money for a stupid rubber seal that keeps rips sooner due to lowering, so im on a mission to seal that sucker myself
as for the clicking, well mine hasnt yet (at least 3months ripped) but when it does ill suck it up and buy a new one. i advise you do the same, cost isnt that bad.
UPDATE: FEBRUARY 19th, 2002
Okay, today I jacked up the car and re-tightened up all the bolts and pieces for the short shifter. I realized that I had put the O-ring on the wrong way and so I fixed that up nicely.
I hoped that the O-ring was indeed the problem, however it turned out to be something else… well…
The clunking I get now is much ‘softer’, ‘quieter’ and less harsh… however it’s still there…
I jacked up the car one more time and noticed that the counterweight was very VERY close to the exhaust piping. My best guess now is that the counterweight is knocking on this piping everything I turn right… however I just wanted to know if this was possible, before I jacked up the car again and started hacking away… anyone???