did you replace the distributor prior to this all happening? i’d have to look up the code setting criteria to find out if it’s possible. i know a code 15 would definitely make it a possibility
I replaced it maybe 2 years ago…anyways i swapped the distributor at autozone for a different one today. Fired the car up and sure enough, same problem right away. I had a pretty good feeling that was gonna happen.
Do you know if the ECU grounds at the thermostat?
there is an ecm ground cluster at the tstat housing, yes. check/clean that one thoroughly. if that doesn’t do it, locate the remaining ecm grounds and do the same
Ive been super busy lately and was borrowing a spare car of my bosses and had to forget about the car for a while but I got back to it and started by cleaning all the grounds in the engine bay, and that was it…fixed the problem! Hahaa I feel like an idiot that it was such a stupid easy fix but Im learning about all this stuff as I go so, whatever. It looks like a coolant leak from a while ago that was right next to it had leaked onto the ground and corroded/rusted it pretty good. Anyways thanks again for the help and walking me through the process.
right on! that’s a great feeling isn’t it? glad it’s all sorted. take care
Well the problem came back. It was fine for almost a month of daily driving and now its giving me the exact same problem…I rescrubbed the ground, no help. I cut that ground off and installed a new one on those wires, still no help.
When I start the car at 7 am and drive to school, its normally alright the way there,and when I leave at 1 pm, it normally messes up about halfway home. Could it be somethin that has to do with the temperature of engine?
My coworker who builds some badass hondas is tellin me he thinks its a sensor like tps, o2, or map. Does that make sense to anyone?
did you clear the codes last time? if so, have you checked them again? it may be a different problem with a similar symptom
You know I dont think I did clear the codes last time. I just googled it and pulling my hazard fuse for a few min should do the trick correct? I have looked at the blinking lights and im still getting code 16, and 17. 17 is for the speed sensor that is not hooked up, and has been that way for a long time, but code 16 is still there. Ill go try resetting the ECU now and see what that does for me
if the problem has not been repaired, resetting the ecm will do nothing. i was just curious which code(s) were coming back.
with as much pertainant detail as possible, please explain the symptom and the conditions that typically trigger them
ok I have 2 codes being thrown in my car. 16, and 17. 17 I am not concerned with, and gives me no symptoms. it has been there for years and is because we forgot about the VSS when friends helped me put engine (b18a1) into the car. Now, when I start my car, everything is fine for maybe 5 minutes to 30 minutes, but the code 16 always shows up and when it does, the rev limiter is imediately reduced to 3200 rpm. Sometimes, as long as I keep revs low, it drives just fine except for the fact it wont rev past 3200. Other times, it seems as if its running on 3 cylinders and drives like crap no matter what. It seems if I keep driving when the car is acting up, the longer I go, the worse it gets. When I let car sit overnight, It normally is ok for a decent while the next morning, but acts up (code 16) later in the day. Im not sure if it has to do with temperature?
I have replaced and swapped out these parts, and the problem still remains.
Fuel injectors
Fuel injector clips
ECU
Main relay
Distributor
Ignition switch
Ground at thermostat…not sure if im forgetting anything else
Also have a new fuel filter I will put in when I have time.
New radiator and hoses are on the way and I will be putting them in along with coolant flush in the next week or so.
Also, is resetting the ECU and clearing the codes the same thing?
Just drove to work, right when car got to operating temp, code16 and reduced rev limiter. Its a hot day and it happened right away. It was the first time car was driven today, at 3 pm…like i said, if it was 7 am abd cold outside, it will normally drive further before tripping the code…also, cleaning the ground at thermostat seemingly fixed problem for a month or so
Edit…just drove home from work, and when car got to operating temp it started to almost hesitate when getting to 3200rpm, but the code never tripped. The drive is only 10 min though and im confident it would have happened if I kept driving
disconnect the o2 sensor. drive it and see what that does. this will not confirm an o2 sensor fault, btw. but it can get us on the right track
Ok today I was doin some more tinkering and I noticed the negative battery cable had a loose connection where it grounds. The threads were stripped and it was on there, just not snug. So I scrubbed that ground down, then put a longer bolt with a nut on the bottom to get a firm connection. I then drove to and from work with no problems, which is not usual. Im gonna take it out longer tommorow to see what happens. Would it make sense that this could have been the problem? I really have no idea.
I will also try o2 disconnect if car gives me trouble tomorrow, and post what happens
definitely could be. poor ground cables can cause ignition issues which could throw a 43
Alright, once again, I think Ive gotten it taken care of lol. Just took a route way out of the way coming home from school, and no code 16. Pretty sure it was the battery ground. Coincidence that I had 2 separate ground issues within a short time frame causing the same symptoms? I dont want to say for sure but I think its fixed. You say it could cause a code 43, but mine was 16. All I know is it hasnt came back since i tightened that thing down. Thanks for all your help again!
sorry. i meant 16. 43 is fuel system. i’m sure a 16 could be thrown as well tho…let’s hope!