Hi everyone…im having a problem with my 90 ls…it is giving me a code 16 for fuel injectors. When I hit 3200 rpm its like im hitting the rev limiter.(limp mode?)
When it first started the car had been giving me this problem for about a day or two, then it died at a stoplight, couldnt get it to start (fuel pump was not priming). I towed it home and was looking at the wiring around the main relay…wasnt grounded so I fixed that…fixed my problem completely and car started right up and drove great for like 50 miles. Now its back though and nothing in the main relay wiring has changed. Typically the Check engine light wont come on and car wont act up until ive been driving for a couple minutes, and turning the car off and starting again will fix problem temporarily sometimes. I have 3 main relays and same problem with all of them… I know at least 2 are good. I had a pretty bad passenger side cowl leak a few weeks ago. Could the ecu have gotten wet/damaged? I really need help as i need this for work and school but Im totally lost. I feel like if the injectors were bad it would not be an intermittent problem like it is? Also find it very strange that the main relay ground wire literally fixed the problem completely for a few days then it came back just the same…Im out of town right now and am looking for ideas on where to start when I get back as I need to fix this ASAP. Thanks a lot
you’re absolutely certain it’s a code 16? if so, i’d think the easiest thing to do would be ohm test the injectors. since i would assume the ecm sets this code by realizing an out of range voltage drop. while i don’t much care for resistance testing to qualify any component, it at least can disqualify it, and is simple enough to do. while you’re there with your meter, check for battery voltage at each injector power feed, KOEO
Ok im new to the electrical stuff but my dad knows about it, he just doesnt work on cars…using his multimeter, ohm test on the injectors themselves read about 2.3 - 2.6 on all 4. The voltage test at the wires was 11.8 on all 4, with the key on engine off.
So they are getting power correct? I am not sure what the ohm test results mean. Thanks very much for the help I am getting desperate…when I turn car on it drives fine for a couple seconds or a couple minutes, but always goes back to running like shit and code 16…by the way I am 100% positive it is code 16
i’m not sure what the range is for spec. but 2.3-2.6 sounds low. typically, low impedence injectors should measure at 3 ohms. if 2.3 is out of spec, it’ll trip the code. and realistically, that reading you took isn’t a live circuit either. the problem could even be amplified if it were live with 12v flowing through
I got the service manual for our cars off another website… they are supposed to be between 10-13 ohms. It says to replace any that are not. Would it make sense that all of them are so similarly out of spec at the same exact time? If they are so far off, why does the car run normal for a bit before throwing the code?
Ill replace the injectors if thats what is necessary I just dont want to be overlooking something…
Selling obd0 240cc injectors (stock) They are saying injector should be replaced when lower than 1.5 ohms, or higher than 2.5 ohms. This would make more sense for my test results
Conflicting information with the service manual which is just 90-93 integra. The 92 and 93 are obd1 which would mean different injectors right?
92-93 are high impedence. 90-91 are low. so they say no higher than 2.5 eh? interesting. thought they were usually around 3. oh well, guess they out of spec. i would test resistance of the resistor box as well. there should be testing procedures all over the net for it
Are you saying my injectors are out of spec because they are .1 ohm too high? Could that .1 ohm really be what is causing this to happen?
I just swapped the ecu with one from the junkyard and the car was running great for a while, I thought I had fixed it. But sure enough light came back on and its back to doin what it always has.
it’s hard to say. resistance can test fine, but put a load on the circuit and it’s a different story. especially with coils. 2.6 is technically out of spec.
let’s try something else. can you trip the code by just free revving?
Resistor box has 5 wires… 4 black and 1 red. Test resistance between red and each black wire, correct? I did that yesterday and I cant remember but I thinkit was right around 7 ohms on each of em. Nothing was far off from any of the other readings.
I will try the free reving to trip the code today, its never happened beforr but I havent just sat there reving.
I posted a thread on honda tech about this also and no one has been able to help lol…part of me wants to just go buy 4 new injectors but I really dont want to drop that money if I dont need to
well we wanna try and test what we can first. if you can get it to act up free revving then we’ll disconnect one injector, install a 194 marker bulb into the socket, and free rev. see if the bulb remains lit throughout. do that with each injector circuit. that should suffice for circuit testing. at least without using a scope, that is. of course it would need to act up free revving though first. without the problem ocurring, youcan’t pin point. if all 4 circuits tested good, i’d say start hanging injectors on it.
I tried to get the cel on by just revving engine, couldnt do it. Took the injectors out to look at em and they were super dirty. One of them had the plastic all broken around the squirter part. I bought 4 new ones and its been driving fine since.
The new injectors were all 2.4 ohms exactly. Happy its fixed thanks a lot for the help
Well I spoke too soon…after installing the injectors the car was driving normal for 5 laps around the block (1 mile each) and a couple errands and goin to work and back, but today on the way to work, right as im gettin on the freeway it bogs down again and throws code 16. Wtf. I think im gonna just take it to a mechanic
go over all your ecm grounds. clean, then retorque them. there’s one cluster on the tstat housing. check/clean that one. find out if there’s anymore, possibly on the firewall
Lol yea I dont even know what a lab scope or graphing meter is…I said screw it today and dropped the car off at the mechanic. I explained the problem and he said it was the computer right off the bat. Told him I already swapped it and there is a spare in the car haha. Ill tell you what it is when he figures it out. Thanks again for all your help though I really dont like the idea of payin someone to work on it but im kinda out of options at this point
yea it’s hard when you have to drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the problem. a constant problem is much easier to find. that is, without backprobing circuits. and for injector circuits, you need something a lot faster than a dvom.
i’m sure the mechanic thought it was an injector driver (inside ecm). i have a feeling it’s ground related. sorry we couldn’t solve it. but yea, keep us updated on what they find
Ok mechanic is tellin me he is sure its the distributor. Idk make any sense to you?? Its got a lifetime warranty from autozone so I dont mind swappin it out, but would that make sense to be throwing code 16? I have heard these autozone distributor s suck though…ill test it tomorow