code 20 eld car is sputtering sometimes and code 17 stupid chase bays harness

ASSISTANCE Electrical & Entertainment Systems
1

hey i was searching before i made this thread

so i have a problem with my car…i used to have itbs in my car with hondata and type r …car ran awsome…ran into somethings sold the itbs

i made my own harness before and it was perfect

but then i sold that and bought a stupid chase bays harness and now i have had nothing but problems

anyways … i have a pr3 b16 ecu running my engine now and i also put my o2 sensor back in because who needs a wideband anymore without all the other bells and whistles

and i shouldnt have any problems …however i start my car and it will idle fine but as soon as i go to give it gas, it wants to fall on its face, and die out

so i start it back up and im feathering the pedal and then it wants to start to run better and then i go to drive and its bucking like a bronco and i feel like a complete idiot because everyone is watching me drive this rice burner and sounds and looks retarded … i finally get a check engine light and i go to take the orange and brown wire that chase bays gives you on the harness to retrieve codes and nothing…i was stumped so i tried grounding the brown wire to the seat bolts and boom i was able to see what the codes were

i got a code 17 vss (vehicle speed sensor)

and a code 20 eld (electronic load detector)

i had this problem before with another integra i had but it was with a cracked wire going to my injector wires.

but this time i took each clip off while it was running and they seemed to be working right

it feels like if the car is at the right idle it wants to run fine but sometimes when you are driving it…it wants to fall on its face

i notice on the chasebays harness that i have that the d10 (for eld) pin going to the aem wideband but if i didnt add that pin it would have been empty

where is that wire supposed to go throughout the chassi if i want to hook it up to where it needs to go so hopefully that would make the cel go away?

also i have a gsr cluster in my car and im really hoping that the cluster isnt bad for the vss because the needle in the cluster is working but i was reading that the resistance between the two screws have to be at a certain volts for it to read right …and im not having vtec engage either and i think thats because of the vss…

if anybody could shine some light on this i would be very appreciative…and unlike most people i will let everyone know what the problem ended up being on here after i fix it…

thanks in advance

2

found this and this but still not giving me everything i need

3

been working on it for a while and then took my friend in the car for a drive to show him what it is and he says he thinks its a loose wire somewhere… im going to buy a volt meter tommorrow and check all my ground wires… i guess im not sure what else to do except do the other stuff like a new fuse box…

4

make sure tps and map aren’t backwards, and have correct polarity.

as far as your vss goes, your going to have to trace that one out.

5

ok i found out that the vss was never hooked up to the existing plug wires that are ran through the chassis that is now fixed and my vtec is working great now…

however i found a obd1 injector and replaced the 3rd cylinder injector with it and it seems to be running a little better but i dunno… goimng to wait untill tommrorw to restart and take it for a spin to see if it really did anyting

6

OK STILL SPUTTERING!!!

im going to replace the plug wires today to see if that could be it… i only bought them a year a ago but i did take them off and on alot after changing out the head…and while im at it im going to get new plugs as well…

crosses fingers

hope this is my problem

i took the distributor cap off and cleaned the contacts as well and nothing so this is my last thing that it could be other than a wiring nightmare!

7

Do you still have a CEL?

8

I wish I knew more about the electronics to help out. Still falling on its face?

9

ok got it up and running this past week and turns out the fuel pressure was too low i guess…i have a after market fuel pressure regulator and the gauge said it was at 36 which is right where it needs to be for running stock injectors but the gauge must have been bad because when i turned the pressure up to 40 my car is running great again!!! no more check engine lights except the eld still which isnt popping up when i drive but only when i check for the codes…

i am however having a hunting idle issue but im thinking i got a dirty throttle body because i bought the manifold with the throttle body used and just slapped it on because i needed a car to drive…