First off, my engine is a B18B, all stock besides an intake. Car ran fine when I first got it running, but now it does something odd.
When it’s first started, and cold, it’s fine, but as it starts to warm up, it slowly starts loading up, and will flood itself dead.
Plenty of spark, new distributor, plugs, etc. Main relay is good, I get fuel pressure.
Now, what about the IACV or FITV? Because if one or both were bad, then the engine would think it was always cold, and dump in more fuel, so when the revs drop, it doesn’t get enough spark to compensate. Yes, no?
Because if I keep the revs way high, by just keeping my foot in it, it stays alive, but with it goes back down to idle, it just floods itself out.
Remember, this only happens once it starts to warm up.
It’s been almost a year now, and this problem is keeping me from driving. =\
among other things, the coolant temp sensor relays critical information to the pcm in regards to fuel regulation. to test, pull it out, then measure resistance first cold, then hot with a blow dryer.
also, may want to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what happens when it stalls
Welfare is correct the cts or ect(engine coolant temperature) is what the pcm looks at to make the car go into what is called closed loop mode…if your ect or cts is faulty your car will stay in open loop mode which means the pcm dumps alot of fuel to keep the car running until it has reached normal operating temperature…open loop mode is used when the car is cold. Also while your at it check the voltage of your o2 sensor shudnt be lower than .5v or higher than 4.5v
So meaning that if it’s bad, then when the car naturally warms up and the idle drops, the sensor doesn’t know it’s warming up, and just keeps dumping in fuel as if it were still cold. Right?
Also, it’s a brand new Bosch o2. Granted, it’s not a Denso, but it’s brand new.
Well the gauge reads just fine. So is it the sensor on the thermostat housing that I’m needing to check? (I have a B18B block) Or is it a relay that is done for?
Alright, so it’s the one on the side of the head, gotcha. Funny though, I replaced that one with a spare I had lying around, though it was used, couldn’t figure it being bad also.
However, think about this…
I replaced that sensor with a used, but in what seemed in good condition, spare. Car all of a sudden didn’t flood itself out like it did before. I drove the car for a little while that night, and it was fine at first, but then all of a sudden, I got the CEL again. Car wouldn’t go full throttle, it would just lurch around like it didn’t have gas. So I limped it home.
Now I can’t remember if it was that night or the next day, but the exact same problem started right back up. Could that spare have only been good for a short time?
only way to know is to test it. it’s super easy to do. just measure resistance with the car shut off and cold. then measure with the car at operating temp. check if it’s within spec
Alright. Put the new sensor in. Got a CEL, though it was a code 10, so replaced that one, no CEL. Good. Started it up, and all seemed good, though the temp gauge wasn’t working, and the car did what it always does. First the tack needle starts to blip, then the engine starts to load up slowly and flood itself out. Can’t even give it gas.
I can’t wait till this car is another persons problem, as it’s been nothing but problems for me.
So, could a faulty temperature gauge sensor cause this also? Cause apparently, the sensor that was said to be bad by Welfare, isn’t the problem.
I’ve put in a brand new O2 sensor, brand new complete Distributor, now a new Coolant Temperature Sensor, still dies. I’m going to make a video of this later if that would help you guys.
Well, slightly strange thing happened. I decided to stick back on the original B18A intake manifold, instead of the B18B, since they have different AICV’s on the back, as well as the B18A has the FITV.
So, could the fact that the AIVC was from an OBD-1 car make it not work as it should? Or if the OBD doesn’t matter, what if it was completely bad? And would the FITV make that much of a difference, especially considering my idle problem?
Because I put back on the B18A manifold, and it ran for almost 30 minutes and not a single problem. Got to operating temperature, and not one problem! Where as before the needle never even got off the ‘C’ on the gauge before it started to die on me.