Ok, this is a pretty newbie question, but I’m a newbie to Japanese cars, but anyway, I just got a 1990 integra RS to replace my old crappy volvo. Anyway I was looking into cold air intakes and thinking about getting one. I was talking to my dad about it, and he thinks that to get the performance out of it, I’d need to re map the fuel injection, ( he put a cold air filter on one of his motor bikes and needed to re-jet the carbs.) Looking at installations found on the internet I’ve found nothing about remapping the fuel injection cycle. So I thought I’d ask here, do I actually need to do anything like that to get the performance out of a cold air intake? And could anyone just give me a quick rundown on how to install one. The integra I have is pretty low k for its year, and looks like a one owner car( it was traded in when the person bought a new car from a dealer ship) , so the engine is pretty much stock. I’m just looking at what I can do to get a little bit of power out of it. I might eventually turn it into a sleeper.
no you don’t… need to re-map your injection. cold air intake is a BOLT-ON upgrade keyword BOLT-ON
car (does not equal sign) bike. your b18a1 does not have carbs, nor does it require you to re-map anything when you throw on an air intake.
I recommend you get a short ram rather than a cold air, but I’ll let you do your own research.
If you’re that worried about it, after you install it, reset your ECU. Done.
Instead of going with a “Cold Air” intake kit, replace the stock air filter with a K&N filter and keep the stock system from the airbox to throttlebody - get rid of everything upstream of the airbox (from the snorkel intake at the hood latch to the resonator box under the airbox). All it will cost you is the price of the K&N filter ($30) and you will get improved throttle response and better sound with about the same performance improvement as a “Cold Air” intake kit. You could spend money and further improve the system by replacing the stock rubber intake hose with 3" diameter silicone brake ducting and an adapter for the vacuum/air lines/throttlebody (fabricated from 3" 1/8 thick aluminum tubing and adapted to the throttle body by a silicone intercooler 3" to 2.75" straight reducer.) Image of what I did with our '90 RS HERE.
That’s the nice thing about MAP sensors, the computer will adjust to the new conditions with a reset.
People have said removing the part underneath the headlight (by the hood latch) will give you decreased gas mileage…
uhh first of all I know a car is not a bike, but they are both combustion engines, and yes I know my acura doesn’t have a carburettor , its kind of fucking obvious, and when someone is asking about if a re mapping of the injection system needs to be done. I think that shows that I was well aware that I have a fuel injected engine.
[QUOTE=Vracer111;1719211]Instead of going with a “Cold Air” intake kit, replace the stock air filter with a K&N filter and keep the stock system from the airbox to throttlebody - get rid of everything upstream of the airbox (from the snorkel intake at the hood latch to the resonator box under the airbox). All it will cost you is the price of the K&N filter ($30) and you will get improved throttle response and better sound with about the same performance improvement as a “Cold Air” intake kit. You could spend money and further improve the system by replacing the stock rubber intake hose with 3" diameter silicone brake ducting and an adapter for the vacuum/air lines/throttlebody (fabricated from 3" 1/8 thick aluminum tubing and adapted to the throttle body by a silicone intercooler 3" to 2.75" straight reducer.) Image of what I did with our '90 RS HERE.
That’s the nice thing about MAP sensors, the computer will adjust to the new conditions with a reset.[/QUOTE]
wow, thanks a lot man, that sounds like a much better idea. and I won’t loose any sleep over not having some stupid big ass shiny pipe in my car haha. Mind if fire you an email if I need any more information?
This '90 RS gets 35+mpg cruising on highway and 27mpg daily driven by my brother with a very lead foot…
Leningrad, feel free to send e-mail for any questions…
That really rubs me the wrong way when I hear that. I’ve had three DAs and the best I get out of them is 25 mpg, maybe a bit better with continuous highway driving. That just sounds like bullshit.
Cause it is bullshit lol! There is no way he is getting that with a lead foot. Lots of people cant even get that driving like a grandma!
^??? wtf? dude i get 38 highway and 32 city… with a lead foot that is tac welded to the floor.
I saw 30+ in my da, but the auto db1 I am driving now gets around 26. A new o2 sensor can help mileage significantly on old cars if you haven’t replaced it (fyi).
I have a k & n filter with a no name cai and the mud shields in place on the db1. It seems to perform better then my aem short ram; however, I do worry about the rain a lot down here.
Yeah, I’ve never checked the O2 sensor, might do that and see what happens. I have a short ram right now but my other DAs were competely stock. Are you saying a cold air will get better mileage? I’ve been thinking about getting one…
Not necessarily, just that it seems more responsive…ie air in the engine bay is much hotter then ambient temp. As far as the o2 sensors go, they can cause the engine to run rich from inaccurate sensor output. I would say that output the voltage degrades as they age from resistance (corrosion and such).
to get the best performance out of a true cold air intake, you’d want a pipe that isn’t made with aluminum or any other kind of metal. a plastic pipe (Iceman cold-air intake for example) will not get as hot as an aluminum pipe, thus dramatically reducing intake air temperatures.
but yeah, a re-mapping of the fuel injection wont be necessary. our engines dont breath in that much air to begin with, so a big pipe with a cone filter will make more noise than power. here is a good idea for an DIY intake that won’t be any more than $50 for all the parts.
keep your stock airbox, remove the resonator from behind the front bumper, as well as all the snorkels and air ducts. attach about a 3" pipe with a smooth 90 degree bend to the bottom of your stock airbox (a setup similar to the comptech icebox) this will act as a cold air scoop. drawing in air from one area, and one area alone. finding a way to run that air scoop to an opening in the front bumper will give the cold air a direct shot to the air box. this would be really easy on a stock 90-91 bumper. there is a “grille” under each bumper light. just remove it and run your cold air duct to that area (will require a little modding)
now to smooth out the airflow from the filter to the throttle body, replace the stock air duct with an aftermarket pipe of some kind (preferably a plastic one, a little bit of PVC pipe painted black will have a nice “stock look” to it) but piecing it together without LOOKING like pvc pipe is the tricky part. do this and you will have a “stock looking” cold-air intake with all the benefits of a cold-air intake, without the risk of hydrolock. and without all the noise. it’ll only be a little louder than stock.
/long post :giggle:
The air is sucked in at a very high rate and velocity that it has no time to heat up no matter what material the pipe is made out of.
Imagine the vacuum that the engine is creating when it is spinning at 3,000+ rpm. The air will not be traveling at a slow rate.
So Jake…how’d you do it to your 92-93 bumper?
If your integra can’t easily get over 25mpg in town or 30mpg cruising the highway it is not running right…it might have something to do with where you live also (higher altitude and lots of elevation changes - I live at sea level and it’s dead flat). My first Integra, an automatic '90 GS (some 300+ lbs heavier than this RS BTW) would get 35mpg cruising on the highway at 80+ mph; could go just over 420miles on 12 gallons. My 5-speed 2.4L Toyota Tacoma Extended Cab gets 27mpg cruising the highway at 80mph at stock height riding on sticky 245/45-16 Hankook R-S2 Z212’s. Key concept is to keep as much load off the engine as possible…or being mindfull of throttle control to maintain momentum (not wasting energy in unneccessary acceleration or deceleration.)
Well, my car is running fine. I could put new plugs/wires/cap/o2 sensor on, might help, but they work fine as far as I know. It idles perfectly, it starts up fine (except on rare days when the MFR is a PITA), doesn’t burn or smoke or leak…and I drive like a granny, let me tell you. I always have. I just never get any better than that.