im new to tuning and know close to nothing but im on the path to knowledge. and now im stuck at the part where i have everything i need BUT how do i get the information from my computer to the ecu?
i have the basemaps and the program but how do i get it to the ecu…
First of all, you must fully understand the consequences and benefits of tuning.
If your engine is stock or with mild bolt-ons, I strongly suggest you don’t touch the ecu or play with maps.
I would also strongly recommend that you do not attempt to do tuning yourself, unless you fully understand what you are doing. By reading your post, I can see that you still have alot of learn. Playing around with timing and fuel while you don’t understand how it all works is a recipe for disaster.
i’ll provide you with a general nutshell of OBD1 Honda tuning, but you should talk with an experienced tuner in your area. Find out what tuning system they can tune before you make any decisions. I don’t have much experience with OBD0 or OBD2 tuning so I can’t comment much on that.
The type of tuning you can do is dependant on your OBD system.
For OBD1 systems (92-96), you basically have four main routes to take.
the hardware route you take will dictate what software you can use, so before you purchase anything I suggest that you find out what system your tuner recommends. Do thorough research on your tuner. Dont trust just anyone with your tune. It only takes a few degrees of bad timing to cost you a new engine.
Here is a list of popular OBD1 tuning software systems.
Here are a few good resources:
www.xenocron.com (one of our sponsors, they provide excellent service)
www.pgmfi.org
forum.pgmfi.org
Your local car forum - They should have a tuner directory, or at the very least be able to tell you who can do tuning in your area.
Anyways, that was a very brief overview of honda OBD1 tuning. There are alot of online resources available and I suggest that you do your research well. This was just a quick general overview of OBD1 tuning, meant to get you started. Welcome to the wonderful world of Honda ecu tuning!
wow… thanks for the orientation
very good info wiseolddragon:up:
wow thanks for the info!!
No problem guys.
There is alot of old and outdated information on the internet, my goal was to give everyone a more updated general overview of honda obd1 tuning for anyone looking to get into tuning.
ok… my plan is to use the chipped p28 i got from the crx i bought on my da. would i be able to do that after i do the obd1 conversion? even though its a vtec ecu would i be able to program it to be used on my ls?
thats what the p28 i want to use looks like. would i be able to use the moates burner along with one of the above mentioned tuning programs to program the chip to work with the ls? and my main goal is to datalog. if i use Crome free + Freelog along with a datalogging cable would i be able to do that? and where can i find a datalogging set up that allows me to connect my laptop to the ecu? is this what i should use http://www.xenocron.com/moates-hulog-honda-usb-datalog-interface-p-156.html
I believe any of the listed datalogging cables would work… Id go with the Xenocron one.
Does your ecu already have the 4pin datalogging header soldered on it?
On that site, one of the top tabs is labeled Bin Files. They have a bunch of roms on there for lots of different programs (Chrome, Neptune, Hondata, etc). They may be worth checking out.
thanks. and which cable? the usb or the serial? and whats the difference?
no, it doesnt have it in yet. where can i find one? i dont see one on xenocrons website…
and i checked out that tab and its full of other peoples builds. i plan on using crome and freelog…
Get the USB cable. The serial cable is for really old laptops with only a serial port.
New laptops dont have serial ports, so they will not work with the serial cable. They both function exactly the same. The Hulog was introduced before someone figured out that the nokia cables could be used for datalogging. Hence, the cables are now preferred over the Hulog simply because it is not as clunky and cheaper to make.
Chrome + freelog is a good way to start tuning.
For the 4-pin header, I believe the cables from xenocron come with one (don’t quote me on that). If not, you can easily find them at any local electrical supply store and just solder it in. it just looks likes this and is very common, it sometimes comes in 8 or 16 pins, but you can just break off 4 of them:
While you are purchasing stuff from xenocron or phearable, i reccomend that you also buy the zero insertion force (ZIF) socket to make hella lot easier to swap chips.
http://www.xenocron.com/aries-zif-socket-p-196.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
You may have to desolder the sandwich adapter (DIP socket) you currently have on your ecu, which takes some considerable skill.
You CAN stack the ZIF on top of the DIP, but it can come loose in your car due to vibrations (I speak from experience).
On a side note, the soldering job on that board doesn’t look too good. Make sure to check that the chipping was done correctly.
http://support.moates.net/2010/05/10/honda-chipping-kit-install/
I have skunk2 stage 2 cams. Are there anything I can do to make it street legal?
Have it tuned by someone who can make it run efficiently. Then hopefully the vehicle will pass the sniffer.
[QUOTE=wise_old_dragon;2199724]Get the USB cable. The serial cable is for really old laptops with only a serial port.
New laptops dont have serial ports, so they will not work with the serial cable. They both function exactly the same. The Hulog was introduced before someone figured out that the nokia cables could be used for datalogging. Hence, the cables are now preferred over the Hulog simply because it is not as clunky and cheaper to make.
Chrome + freelog is a good way to start tuning.
For the 4-pin header, I believe the cables from xenocron come with one (don’t quote me on that). If not, you can easily find them at any local electrical supply store and just solder it in. it just looks likes this and is very common, it sometimes comes in 8 or 16 pins, but you can just break off 4 of them:
While you are purchasing stuff from xenocron or phearable, i reccomend that you also buy the zero insertion force (ZIF) socket to make hella lot easier to swap chips.
http://www.xenocron.com/aries-zif-socket-p-196.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
You may have to desolder the sandwich adapter (DIP socket) you currently have on your ecu, which takes some considerable skill.
You CAN stack the ZIF on top of the DIP, but it can come loose in your car due to vibrations (I speak from experience).
On a side note, the soldering job on that board doesn’t look too good. Make sure to check that the chipping was done correctly.
http://support.moates.net/2010/05/10/honda-chipping-kit-install/[/QUOTE]
i dont understand where the 4 pin connector goes on the ecu. the entire soldering process is out of my reach. ive never done it nor do i know anyone that can. if you or someone else on here can do all this for me that would be great. i just dont want to be charged my skin and my first born to do it. so the checklist for this is…
4 pin connector
zif socket
dip socket
and the datalog kit from xenocron
correct? and i can just reuse the sst chip and the little one next to it rite? this was the ecu in the crx i bought for 3 years. so it may look bad but it works. do you recommend it be done like in the motates write up?
The 4-pin header goes here, CN2 1-4:
You don’t need to buy a dip socket (you already have one), and in-fact you may want to remove it from your board.
Contact xenocron and ask if the datalog cable comes with the 4-pin header, if so you don’t need to buy it seperately. According to the product description " A 4 pin male header is required to be soldered in and will be included in the kit."
Basically your checklist should be more like this:
In regards to soldering. I don’t think you want to ship your ecu across the border just to get it soldered by me… I’m sure there are plenty of individuals that live close to you who could do it for cheap. You could also just buy a good low watt soldering iron, some desoldering wick (or pump) and learn to do it yourself. Try first on old unused circuit boards (old computer’s, radios, etc…). It’s not hard at all, and plenty of guides exist on the internet for desoldering, and soldering.
i see now. then when it gets soldered in it sticks straight up and the cable plugs into it, rite? and when i get it installed am i going to have to cut a hole in the ecu plate to keep it accessible or would it be ok to have the ecu with no top plate?
so you you want me to replace the dip socket with a zif socket? just so i can clarify it for myself, a zif socket is like a quick release for the sst chip? its so i can i switch it back and forth from the ecu to a burner easily? the dip socket installed on there now already lets me do that. but you want me to re-do it because the job on there now look like crap?
a couple more questions:
with the datalogging setup installed will i need the use of a chip burner or can i just do that from the laptop?
whats this for http://www.xenocron.com/moates-hulog-honda-usb-datalog-interface-p-156.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
and are these the 3 things i need to get in order to be datalogging ready?
http://www.xenocron.com/xeno-usb-datalogging-kit-p-72.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
http://www.xenocron.com/four-pin-male-header-p-70.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
http://www.xenocron.com/aries-zif-socket-p-196.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
Yes it will stick straight up for you to connect. Don’t run it in your car without the top plate. The top plate prevents water and dirt out of the ecu, and protects it from passengers. You never know when a passenger is going to spill something in your car, or you get a water leak (see links).
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?176783-How-to-Sure-fire-Passenger-leak-fix.&highlight=front+cowl+leak
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?163003-Damn-Passenger-side-water-leaks!!-56k-no-no&highlight=front+cowl+leak
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?88730-Passenger-floor-leak-quickfix-w-pics&highlight=front+cowl+leak
The problem isnt the soldering job, it’s better to remove the DIP and permanently solder in the ZIF. Like I said, it’s possible to stack the ZIF on the DIP, but I’ve personally had experiences where the ZIF comes loose because of vibrations. The ZIF sockets have narrower and shorter pins than a chip, so the DIP has trouble holding it in.
An alternative would be to tune with the stacked ZIF on top of the DIP for easy swapping and removal. Then when you have your final tune ready, take out the ZIF and put the chip directly into the DIP.
The datalogging cable is just a datalogger. You still need to have a burner!
I already answered that earlier in one of my previous posts :roll:, “The Hulog was introduced before someone figured out that the nokia cables could be used for datalogging. Hence, the cables are now preferred over the Hulog simply because it is not as clunky and cheaper to make.” In short, Hulog does exactly the same as the cheaper datalogging cables.
[QUOTE=DA_all_day;2199783]
and are these the 3 things i need to get in order to be datalogging ready?
http://www.xenocron.com/xeno-usb-datalogging-kit-p-72.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
http://www.xenocron.com/four-pin-male-header-p-70.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8
http://www.xenocron.com/aries-zif-socket-p-196.html?osCsid=c5008053d43f0bf2f13504a7880df6a8[/QUOTE]
Like I said in previous post, You dont need the header since the cable comes with one.
thanks for all your help. ill post updates as soon as i make changes…
Glad I could help and be sure to Keep us updated!
ok… just so i can put this to bed and stop questioning myself, tell me if i have this rite…
also, i can re-burn the sst chip over and over and over again? correct?