Well I’m about to change the trailing arm bushings on my car but I’ve read on a couple of treads that there is a drawback to running these but no one posted what they are. I’m stuck on if I should buy the polyurethane bushings or the mugen or OEM ones. Also my car is running the ITR rear 5 lug trailing arm so the Mugen bushing would be a normal press in problem.
I am going to install the urethane bushings soon. I ran into a how to on here somewhere that links you to another website. Anyway, they had a pretty awesome idea that I am going to do. The metal center of the bushing was taken out (which you have to do anyway). They drill four small holes on each side of this piece and a larger hole off to the side. This hole would be accessible after the bushing was installed. You tap the large hole and install a grease fitting. So, now after you install the bushings you can grease them; the grease will come out of the smaller holes. The bushings that I purchased were the black not the red. One problem that I did hear about these bushings is that they bind up. I am going to give this idea a try and see if I have any problems. I hope that I am somewhat helpful.
can you find the link to that??i have some es trailing arm bushings waiting to be installed and that might be interesting.
it took about two weeks of daily driving on my es ta bushings before some of the body filler putty that runs around the base of the passenger side rear wheelwell cracked. i had to turn up a sharp incline to get into work everyday, other than that i would have never noticed how bad the rear binds. the wheels can even come off the ground where there would have been suspension travel before. driving around on the flat streets the car felt tight. im now switching to a spherical setup.
password JDM sells the spherical setup for the 3rd gen trailling arm wich I am running, I just don’t know if they are worth the 250.00 for them.
well there are spherical options for the da rta’s but im not gonna get into that right now… i just bought a set of dc arms and intend to use either the sphericals that password sells or the hardrace units… i know a racer who runs the pic ones that password sells. they are really good, but they arent sealed like the hardrace units. the hardrace units are 220ish if you can find them. thats what im going with. very robust, sealed, durable, and it performs.