I have a coolant leak that is coming out of a small crack on a rubber hose connected to the back of the bleeder valve. I tried to remove the cracked hose but it is not easily coming off the back of the bleeder valve or on the other end where its connected to, near the top of the intake manifold area.
I thought it will be as easy as replacing the upper or lower coolant hose but this piece seem to be on pretty tight or stuck on from all those years. I was thinking about cutting it and then ripping all the old rubber off but I am afraid to mess up. Need some advice from someone who knows. I can post a pic and stuff if need.
you can also try a 90 degree pick. stick it in between the neck and the hose and work your way around it. just make sure it goes between and not right into the hose carcass.
all good methods you have there now
Thanks everyone for the help! I managed to get it out. Embarassed to say it took me about 2 hrs lol…very stubborn hose to remove.
I may have a problem. The hose as mentioned was attached to the back of the bleeder valve. My thought was to take off the entire metal bleeder valve casing so I can remove the rubber hose easily but after removing the two 10mm bolts about 2 inches long I noticed that part does not come off easily there was so adhesive where it connects to the engine block. I put the bolts back in, BUT my concern is is there a certain torque I have to tighten the 10mm bolts? I am afraid the block may crack if I do it too tight or too lose something may happen…
Are we talking about the bleeder-valve thats on the side of the cylinder head, below the distributor?
if so… 9 ft-lb, or 108 in-lbs… Definitely use an inch-lbs wrench if you can… a foot-lbs wrench does not read accurately below 20’ft-lbs and you’ll break the studs.
[QUOTE=unified112;2280239]Are we talking about the bleeder-valve thats on the side of the cylinder head, below the distributor?
if so… 9 ft-lb, or 108 in-lbs… Definitely use an inch-lbs wrench if you can… a foot-lbs wrench does not read accurately below 20’ft-lbs and you’ll break the studs.[/QUOTE]
unified112, Thanks so much for helping me out on this man! I appreciate it. I have the car up and running no leaks; did not have to redo the hondabond thing I left it alone as I never took it apart. Also thanks for giving me the specs “9ft lbs or 108 inch lbs” I did call Oakland Acura and Pleasanton Acura to verify if the numbers are correct just in case. To my surprise the master technician at Oakland Acura quoted me 18 to 20ft lbs. I called Pleasanton Acura and was told 10-15ft lbs. I went with yours 9ft lbs and its looking good so far! Thank you again! Hope you have a happy holiday!
Sometimes it’s hard to know for sure which part you’re talking about, over the phone, so that may have been part of the situation… But I was at my PC so I was able to look it up right from the service manual.
a torque spec is usually derived from the diameter of the bolt. it doesn’t matter what it is fastening. if a greater value is necessary, the engineers will use a larger diam. bolt. hondas 10mm headed bolts should be a 6mm diameter. for a 6mm diam, out of all those values you were given, 9ft/lbs sounds like the baby bears porridge to me. juuuust right
