So for a while now I’ve had a problem with my cooling fan relay ruse blowing. So long story short right now I’m blowing the fuses instantly. I’ll put the fuse in, and then once I turn the key to the last step before actually cranking it, the fuse pops. According to something I read, that means there is a short somewhere between the fuse box and the relay. Where is the cooling fan relay? Also, how does the ECT sensor tie in with everything? Thanks!
I do believe the relay(s) is(are) under the hood Driver side up near the radiator… should be 2 relays side by side and a bit hard to get to as I recall…
they will run to the COolant temp switch and back to the fusebox. Be careful with the harness if ya yank em it can cause the issues you are having.
I’ll double check what I am saying after work and look in my car to be 100% I am not talking out my a$$, but as memory serves this is what I think you are looking for/ asking about.
Also, today I replaced my ECT sensor, but I’m still getting the code. Could the ECT wires shorting out cause the cooling fan relay fuse to blow. I’m just not familiar with how everything is wired up.
any short in any subsystem would cause a fuse to blow.
at this point get a multimeter and start checking wiring you think is suspect is the best I can offer.
Maybe Welfare or unified might chime in with some nuggets of divine wisdom
LMFAO!
try disconnecting the relay. see if the fuse still blows. if so, short is between the power source and the relay. if not, short is either between relay and fan, or the relay itself.
hard to pinpoint without a wiring diagram. should be a fairly simple circuit though. what you’re really doing here is trying to narrow it down by shortening the circuit.
another test is to install a test light in series with the fuse. key on, the light will come on. now, start jostling the harness all around. try to make the light go out or at least flicker. if it does, you know where the area of the short is. only reason i’m not keen on this method is that you’re allowing an unknown amount of current to flow. it could damage the circuit. that’s why the fuse is there in teh first place.
what code EXACTLY are you getting?
also, there may be other components that receive power through that fuse. probably are. you need a system diagram with the entire circuit. then you can actually see what’s going on. and disconnect components one by one to find the culprit circuit
The only codes I’m getting are 13 (atmospheric pressure sensor, so nothing there) and code 6, which is the ECT sensor. I actually JUST replaced the ECT sensor, and I’m still getting the code. Hence, why I’m asking if the ECT wiring has any relation to that fuse. If it does, then it’s almost a dead giveaway that my ECT wires are shorting somewhere
whether it is or not, you need to solve the ect code anyways. you need a pinout of the ecm connector and the ect sensor connector. then, test for continuity between them. if continuity exists, with the ect now connected, test its resistance at the ecm connector. see if it falls within spec.
the circuits may be connected. i dont have a diagram in front of me now, so i cant say
also, the atmospheric pressure sensor needs to be dealt with as well. its important for fuel trim values. unfortunately, its located inside the ecm and the module itself would need to be replaced