i have a 92 teg and need to short the cooling fan temp switch cuz it doesn’t come on at all…i only see 2 wires enclosed in an off white-yellowish cap under the large radiator hose going to the block of the engine. which one is it? thanks
What has to be done will depend on what is wrong.
Have you checked to see what the problem is? If not, check and see if there is 12V+ constant at the white wire, [that plugs into the rad fan’s blue/black wire] if not check fuse 12 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
If there is power on the white lead, use a “jumper” wire and ground the other wire, [blue at both sides of rad fan plug, if the fan turns on then it’s good and the problem is “upstream”, you could just install a SPST, [on/off] switch and supply a ground to the rad fans blue lead, if you want to find out exactly what the problem is more testing is needed.
94
the problem is that the cooling fan never runs during stop and go traffic. it also never comes on after i turn the car off, not even during the summer hot months where i’ve used the a/c. both fans run when i turn on the a/c. but during the winter when i use the heater, the temp gauge goes up and the car overheats. 'm trying to figure what what these wires are for…
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When A/C is used and the “Condenser Fan” turns on, so does the rad fan, [controlled by “Radiator Fan Control Module” if A/C is not on, only the “Engine Coolant Temperature Switch” supplies a ground to the “Radiator Fan Relay” to energize it, [turning rad fan on] the relay supplies the ground for the rad fan, [blue lead].
If rad fan works with A/C then the rad fan, rad fan relay and rad fan control module are all good, and the “Engine Coolant Switch” is the problem.
The “ECTS” supplies a ground to the rad fan relay, yellow/green when engine coolant temp. reaches about 194 degrees F, relay is located in front of batt., check and make sure that the black/yellow lead on the relay plug has 12V+ when ign. switch is in the run position, from fuse 21 - 15A, [hot in run] in under dash fuse box, if there is power, [with ign. on] ground the yellow/green lead, rad fan should turn on. if so then definitely the problem is the “ECTS” and it should be replaced, or if you want to install a manual switch, you can use a 1A switch to supply a ground to the yellow/green at the rad fan relay.
I am not sure what the wires are in the two plugs, [hard to tell exactly what the colors are] but may be wiring for the “ECTS” or the “Radiator Fan Control Module”, [Canadian model does not have a “RFCM”, the “ECTS” is located on the back of the head, [screwed into head on the firewall side].:idea:94
thanks. the wires circled in the pic A=pink w/white stripe and white w/black stripe. B=pink and yellow w/black stripe. i’m guessing what i need to short is the radiator fan control module to have it turn on everytime i start the engine. cuz that fan nevers runs by itself, ever… it only runs when i use the a/c. it’s cold here now so i use the a/c turning the temp control to warm on the dash panel. it’s what i do to prevent it from overheating. do you know where this control module is located. what are the wires in the pic in the lower left between the battery and radiator fan?
Sorry, not sure where the “Radiator Fan Control Module” is on a g2, however, that is not where the problem is so I wouldn’t mess with it.
It’s a pretty good bet the problem is the “Engine Coolant Temperature Switch”, as everything else seems to be working, as I said, to test this turn on the ign. then ground the yellow/green lead at the “ECTS” or at the “Radiator Fan Relay”
I can find only one yellow/black, [no pink/white, white/black or pink] that has anything to do with the the rad fan, the yellow/black is probably 12V+ out put from “RFCM” to “Radiator Fan Relays” coil, it will supply the relay with the 12V+ it needs when ign. is off, and A/C is on, to turn the rad fan on when the condenser fan turns on.
If, as I believe, the “ECTS” is the problem, just replace it or use a relay to supply a ground to the yellow/green wire going to it, or to the yellow/green at the "Radiator Fan relay, [in front of batt.].:idea:94
ok i’ll give it a try. thanks for your input and knowledge and i’ll let you know what happened. thanks again!!!
[QUOTE=fcm;1551054]Sorry, not sure where the “Radiator Fan Control Module” is on a g2, however, that is not where the problem is so I wouldn’t mess with it.
It’s a pretty good bet the problem is the “Engine Coolant Temperature Switch”, as everything else seems to be working, as I said, to test this turn on the ign. then ground the yellow/green lead at the “ECTS” or at the “Radiator Fan Relay”
I can find only one yellow/black, [no pink/white, white/black or pink] that has anything to do with the the rad fan, the yellow/black is probably 12V+ out put from “RFCM” to “Radiator Fan Relays” coil, it will supply the relay with the 12V+ it needs when ign. is off, and A/C is on, to turn the rad fan on when the condenser fan turns on.
If, as I believe, the “ECTS” is the problem, just replace it or use a relay to supply a ground to the yellow/green wire going to it, or to the yellow/green at the "Radiator Fan relay, [in front of batt.].:idea:94[/QUOTE]
I thought I would add that I replaced my “Radiator Fan Timer” (PN: 37740-PR4-A03) and my radiator fan started to work. My old one had a burnt out zener diode in it and just in time for me to get stuck in 2 hours of traffic. My cooling fan works like a champ now, however I did replace my ECT, and my fan motor and my relays to no avail, this however did work.
So my next problem is the HVAC controls…sigh.
Not going to read the whole thing, but the coolant temp switch on a 92-93 in on the thermostat housing. the oil temp switch is on the back of the block. both go to the fan controller.
but the coolant temp switch on a 92-93 in on the thermostat housing.
That would be the ECTSU, [engine coolant temperature sending unit] supplying a signal to the ECTG, [engine coolant temperature gauge] on all G2 Tegs, but then again maybe it’s a Canadian kind of thing. 94
fcm, actually the ECT switch IS on the thermostat housing on 92-93 integras. The ECT Sending unit (single wire) and ECT Sensor (2 wire) are located on the side of the head for all 90-93 integras.
The ECT sending unit on this db2 I am lookin at is on the §§§§§ side of the head… along with the ECT sensor. The ECT switch is on the thermostat housing, or with the 90-91 on the back of the block. I think you are wrong on this one fcm.
On this 90 b18a block I am looking at they are also on the side of the head.
beat me to it colin, you have certainly beat this topic to death… with a night stick…
Like I said, maybe it’s a Canadian thing, [CDM].
Haynes…
“On Integra models, the ECT switch is located on the rear, firewall side, of the cylinder head”.
The ECT sensor is located near the distributor.
Even the Helms “Factory Service Manual” indicates the ECT switch is located on the back of cylinder head, just above EOT switch.
I can only go by what the manuals say.
There are differences between the USDM and CDM Integra, the CDM Integra also does not have a “Radiator Fan Control Module” or an "Engine Oil Temperature Switch, with or without an A/C system.
The head light system is diff. on USDM and CDM Integra, USDMs do not have DRLs, even the 90 and 91-93 CDM Integra headlight system is diff., so it does not surprise me that the ECT switch may be in a diff. location on USDM and CDM Integra even in diff. locations on diff model years although the same generation.
In the end the sensors will be where they are on the car you happen to have, nuff said. 94
fcm, the difference you are referring to is not a USDM / CDM difference. Unless there’s some more info you have gathered which indicates otherwise. In which case please share in detail because this whole “ECT” issue is one I’ve tried to keep up to date on over the years.
The difference is that on 90-91 b18a’s the ECT switch is on the back of the block, on 92+ b series engines it’s on the thermostat housing. The actual “switch” itself is also a completely different looking unit.
I am aware what the Helms manual says, and I can say from experience that the Helms is incorrect. There are some small differences which the Helms does not show correctly between years/models. This is one of them. I don’t remember exactly, but I recall there being a page of the 92-93 Helms manual which incorrectly says the ECT switch is on the back of the block, and another page which correctly shows it’s location. You will even notice that in the section describing how to test the ECT switch it shows a picture of the thermostat housing style switch yet pages earlier it references it’s location to be on the back of the block.