just need some help with my radiator. ive currently got a half size rad with a/c setup. its a 50mm pwr rad. however
my turbo manifold is close to my radiator. and on a 104 degree day. it overheats.
now what im thinking is
a) remove a/c which will give me less obstruction to my rad.
b) get a full size alloy rad.
c) try and mount it on an angle or underneath the radiator surport and have a filler neck behind the radiator like a ef8 radiator is.
has anyone made a full size fit underneath the radiator surport possibly on an angle. or similar?
today was 102. underboost it eventually overheats. im not happy with this and at the end of the day it needs more capacity so can anyone shed light on this i cant find anything on better cooling systems the full size rad wont fit because my gate is in the way
It occasionally gets that hot in the US depending on the region. The dude from Arkansas sees more 100+ degree days than the guy from Tennessee does. Most of the hotter temps are out west in the desert like in Southern California, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.
Like already suggested Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additives work great. Running with pure water in the summer with an additive will run cooler than an antifreeze mix. Be sure to drain and fill with antifreeze/water mix before it gets below freezing at night or else you will regret it. I did that for a few years when I lived in the south for college and my beater Honda ran great.
There are a few more options you have to get better cooling.
You are probably on the right track with a larger radiator. Get the best fans you can afford.
Do you have an oil cooler? If so is there a fan on it?
Do you have a stock hood? If so you might want to consider adding some type of scoop or vents or changing to an aftermarket hood with them.
Meziere makes an electric water pump for the B series engine that kicks major ass. http://www.meziere.com/displaycategory.aspx?id=244,408
yeh ill prob get rid of the a/c for sure i was lookin at a vented hood. but atm im saving for my trip to california. so ill have to hold off on that.
the water wetter i think will help to i dont know a great deal about it but i know its surposed to help alot.
i think ill have to mount the full size rad sideways into the radiator surport because of my setup. has anyone mounted them sideways to accomodate for the ram horn manifold
honestly, just my .02 from experience, if your a/c still works keep it haha, especially in your temps. the water wetter is made by Red Line and can lower your coolant temps upto 30*. like mentioned above, water alone dissipates heat the best and that with water wetter would probably solve your issues. just be mindful of the temps also. id honestly say try that first before spending the larger amount on a new radiator, fabbing to make it fit your set up and living miserably without a/c.
my experience with water wetter was in a 500hp 383 stroker in a 4x4 chevy truck, and he had heat issues also when he was really having fun, never had a worry again after water wetter alone
on my outlet temps on an aftermarket gauge the gauge doesnt get any hotter then 75degrees c (and doesnt flucuate.) however on the oem gauge (on the head) it does get hot when im giving the car a good run.
im waiting on my temp gun so i can check what and where its heating up from. id like to get it running as cool as possible because tuning is really expensive here…
aw yeh and water wetter here is really expensive to its about $150 for a bottle
but im of the believe of if its not coping bigger is better
that and the cars far from stock now, (except bottom end) and its starting to turn more into a fun car and less of a daily driver
I recommend redline water wetter + Water and if you want get a termostat that is 10 degrees lower then the stock one will be great as well.
Some people may go as low as 150-160 degree but that i wouldn’t know how the outcome is in the long run. I’m sure its probably run richer during warmups no? kinda like if ecu is not tuned for 160 degree and u run something that is too far off spec the ecu will then see it and run richer as it has not reach normal working temp no?
what about looking into a cooler fan swich that turns on 10 lower then normal. I think spoon or mugen makes them, you might want to check out www.passwordjdm.com
better radiator fan, lower temp thermostat, lower temp fan temp switch, higher pressure radiator cap, maybe even an external water pump like suggested above.
oil coolers dont hurt, but can be expensive in comparison to the other options. i would try out those small things first, should only run you a few hundred (US) dollars.
yeah mishimoto thermostat, fan swich, should help.
side note about the high pressure rad cap. unless you have the full metal rad I would stay with factory cap. reason is if you have the plastic radiatore its most likely to crack or blow since it wont be able to release excess pressure to the over flow tank… trust me i had a new plastic rad and i added a high pres cap and ended up blowing it 1 month later after i parked and shut down.
only add a high press rad cap if you have a full metal radiator.
hes got a 50mm PWR civic sized radiator, its aluminum. if you dont have a rad cap i would definitely suggest that in the mix of other little shit too.
the mishimoto setup is good quality at really a great price compared to the fact that the only other two companies that make comparable products are Mugen and Spoon (im talking fan switches and thermostats specifically)
they also make a 1.3bar rad cap that has a built in temp guage. its proven to be convenient more than enough times for me to suggest it to others, espcially if you dont want any aftermarket gauges inside the car (thief magnet) but still want to be able to monitor water temps on the dyno/after a few runs, its like a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, less clutter in the car.