I figured out that my dead cylinder is due to a burnt valve. So now I am wondering if it would be worth it to fix that valve or just buy a b16a head and swap in the b17a cams into that head. Basically I wanna know how much most places charge for swapping heads in our cars?
thanks in advance.
-I don’t have enough money to but any better cams or I would get some ctr’s.
Originally posted by Tad Ghostal
[B]I figured out that my dead cylinder is due to a burnt valve. So now I am wondering if it would be worth it to fix that valve or just buy a b16a head and swap in the b17a cams into that head. Basically I wanna know how much most places charge for swapping heads in our cars?
thanks in advance.
-I don’t have enough money to but any better cams or I would get some ctr’s. [/B]
how did you figure out it was your valve? my #2 cylinder is having problems too, can’t figure out what it is… i did a compression test and it was OK.
I took mine to an acura dealer to do a leak down test, cost me $90 bucks. In case you haven’t already, before seeing if its something wrong internally make sure you change all the ignition parts (distributor cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires) if it is still happening it could be a bad fuel injector. My cylinder that is dead has no compression so yours is probably not anything internally wrong.
But anyways does anyone out there wanna help me? PLEASE!?!??!?!
you cant buy just one valve. you gotta buy them in sets. i found a complete b18b head for 50bucks. theyre going around for ~2-300. labor is 3-500, excluding around 120-200 in gaskets which you should replace.
When you have a burnt valve there is a chance that you will need to disassemble your head and take it to a machine shop for a valve job so they can try to fix the problem and get some new valves set in there. You could get a new set of valves, intake or exhaust depending on what side burnt and have the shop work it for you. It might be cheaper for you to just get a b16 head and swap it onto your b17 block though. From the sound of it, it sounds like you wouldnt be able to do the disassembly/reassembly and having a shop do that can get spendy.
Blizzard - How do you know it is your #2 that you are having problems with?? What are your symptoms?? Do you have a thread up somewhere??
I’m definately going to do the head swap because it seems like the most simple solution. Hey BR thanks for the advice, I have another question though, what else should I have the shop take a look at with the head off. Are there any other problems having a burnt valve might cause?
Also night, I plan on using the cams from the B17a head so I don’t loose any power. But if this guy you know still wants to buy the B17a head with a burnt valve and B16a cams I will give to him for free if he wants to pay the shipping costs.
Originally posted by Tad Ghostal Hey BR thanks for the advice, I have another question though, what else should I have the shop take a look at with the head off. Are there any other problems having a burnt valve might cause?
Are you talking about other problems on the burnt head or on the block??
There shouldnt be much else to worry about. The shop will know right when they pull the head if something is wrong with the block and/or piston.
There is also the chance that you can hit it off well with someone at a machine shop and they could cut you a good deal to fix that head. If you were to do that then at least you know that you would have a good head and new valves. This would be a good time for you to rebuild that head anyway.
Just find out your options first then decide what you want to do.
well, i paid a “friend” to rebuild my head after he “accidentally” blew it. i paid $200 from the goodness of my heart, i forced him to take the money. he rebuilt the head, port polished, and replaced all necessary gaskets… well needless to say after driving the rebuilt head for 10,000 miles it started to burn oil… so i opted for a motor swap to totally regain my confidence of my car.