So I have had to replace both tie rod ends recently and now my alignment is completely out of wack. I have read all about the “string method” but Im not sure about a couple of things.
First, should I screw each new tie rod end all the way in, back the retaining nut off and turn the actual tie rod to make adjustments?
And Second, how the hell do I adjust the tie rods when the wheels are loaded (ie. car is on the ground) if the thing is too low to get under?
Back off the lock nuts then use a wrench on the center piece (tie rod) to turn it. There’s a flat spot on it which fits a wrench perfect, I think it’s a 14mm. When you turn that piece it’ll thread in to, or out of both rod ends, thus changing your toe.
If the car is really low then you may not be able to get under there, I was able to get under mine. But mine’s setup for optimal suspension travel at the track, not looks. If you can’t get under there you can try driving the car up onto ramps. I built a set of ramps 10+ years ago when I first lowered my DA and couldn’t get it off the jack, lol.
If you’re only adjusting the front toe then you don’t need to “box” the car with string. If your steering wheel was straight before the new tie rods went in then all you have to do is set your toe in/out as and if your steering wheel ends up crooked you move both rod ends the the same direction to re-center the steering wheel.
[QUOTE=Colin;2169364]1) Back off the lock nuts then use a wrench on the center piece (tie rod) to turn it. There’s a flat spot on it which fits a wrench perfect, I think it’s a 14mm. When you turn that piece it’ll thread in to, or out of both rod ends, thus changing your toe.
If the car is really low then you may not be able to get under there, I was able to get under mine. But mine’s setup for optimal suspension travel at the track, not looks. If you can’t get under there you can try driving the car up onto ramps. I built a set of ramps 10+ years ago when I first lowered my DA and couldn’t get it off the jack, lol.
If you’re only adjusting the front toe then you don’t need to “box” the car with string. If your steering wheel was straight before the new tie rods went in then all you have to do is set your toe in/out as and if your steering wheel ends up crooked you move both rod ends the the same direction to re-center the steering wheel.[/QUOTE]
My problem is I have been adjusting the toe by turning the tie rod END in and out, instead of the the tie rod. (Not so bright, I know) So my question is, do I tighten the tie rod end as far as it can go, then adjust the tie rod in and out?
The car isn’t super slammed or anything, I’m running H&R sports so it’s only a 1.5" drop or so. I’ll have a look at it again and see if I can get under there. I have a set of metal ramps so I could use those, but I don’t think the wheels will rotate easily in the ‘channels’. If I can’t get under it on the ground maybe I can rig something up with the ramps, some plywood and floor tiles for low friction as some writeups have suggested.
I do have to align all 4 wheels because the rear was aligned for my old, badly worn tires. It’s all over the place. But maybe I can do the 2 fronts then the 2 rears with the same ramp system. (using lots of jack stands of course for safety.)
Thanks so much for the advice, let me know what you think about the placement of the tie rod ends.
How are you rotating the rod end? The rod end is attached to your knuckle. Before attaching the rod end to the knuckle you should thread both left and right rod ends the same amount onto each tie rod. You can use a measuring tape to do this. I’ve also used masking tape on the tie rod to mark the previously location of the old rod ends. Not that you want them in the same spot as the old ones, but at least it’s a starting point. Once both rod ends are threaded approx the same amount onto the tie rods you can adjust in/out on each side to set your toe and center your steering wheel.
When the car is on the ground if you turn the wheel all the way to one direction it’ll give you better access to adjust the rod end. Then straighten the wheel and take your measurements.
Alignment isn’t “set” to your tires. If your tires wore out because the alignment was bad, then yes, you need to correct the alignment. But if your tires wore out for reasons other than your alignment, then you shouldn’t need to reset it.
If you want to adjust your rear toe you need to “box” the car with string, or find some method by which to find the center line of the car. If you can’t set your strings perfectly parallel to the car then you have no way of knowing if your toe is right or left bias. You can be getting zero toe measurements but no way to know if both tires aren’t pointed to the left or right - thus making the car track strangely. You dont need to do this with the front because the steering automatically centers you wheels left to right.
[QUOTE=Colin;2169388]How are you rotating the rod end? The rod end is attached to your knuckle. Before attaching the rod end to the knuckle you should thread both left and right rod ends the same amount onto each tie rod. You can use a measuring tape to do this. I’ve also used masking tape on the tie rod to mark the previously location of the old rod ends. Not that you want them in the same spot as the old ones, but at least it’s a starting point. Once both rod ends are threaded approx the same amount onto the tie rods you can adjust in/out on each side to set your toe and center your steering wheel.
When the car is on the ground if you turn the wheel all the way to one direction it’ll give you better access to adjust the rod end. Then straighten the wheel and take your measurements.
Alignment isn’t “set” to your tires. If your tires wore out because the alignment was bad, then yes, you need to correct the alignment. But if your tires wore out for reasons other than your alignment, then you shouldn’t need to reset it.
If you want to adjust your rear toe you need to “box” the car with string, or find some method by which to find the center line of the car. If you can’t set your strings perfectly parallel to the car then you have no way of knowing if your toe is right or left bias. You can be getting zero toe measurements but no way to know if both tires aren’t pointed to the left or right - thus making the car track strangely. You dont need to do this with the front because the steering automatically centers you wheels left to right.[/QUOTE]
That’s the thing, I have been removing the tie rod end from the knuckle each time and turning it to adjust. Now that I know the proper way to adjust the toe, I have no idea where to start with the placement of the actual tie rod end. All the way in? Half way? equal distance on both sides?
Thanks for all the help, this is a lot clearer to me now. Just not sure where to start with the tie rod end.
[QUOTE=Zenmachine;2169449]That’s the thing, I have been removing the tie rod end from the knuckle each time and turning it to adjust. Now that I know the proper way to adjust the toe, I have no idea where to start with the placement of the actual tie rod end. All the way in? Half way? equal distance on both sides?
Thanks for all the help, this is a lot clearer to me now. Just not sure where to start with the tie rod end.[/QUOTE]
Oh man, that sucks, that’d take FOREVER that way!
Doesn’t matter where you start, matters where you end up. It’ll be easiest if you start approx halfway and even on both sides. Like I said, I like to start in the same position as the old ones, but in your case you can’t do that anymore. Once you’ve got them installed just take your measurement of the toe settings and if you’re toe out, then thread the tie rods to shorten the length of the arm (equal on both sides). If you’re toe in, then thread the tie rods to lengthen the length of the arm (equal on both sides). Once you’ve achieved the toe settings you want (typically zero) then check your steering wheel. Is it straight when the car’s driving straight? If the steering wheel is pointed to the left and the car is tracking straight, then shorten the right and lengthen the left (equal amounts) until the steering wheel is straight when the car is going straight. Vice versa if the wheel is pointed to the right.