covering up holes after de-badging.

what should i use?
what do i need?
how do i do it?

i need as much help as possible.

bump! cmon guys i need help.

Dude search.

The correct way to do it is to get the holes welded, then have the area repainted.

If you want something temporary, go down to your local home depot they sell these plastic plugs in the hardware section.

J-B Weld that shiet like what I’m gonna do… J-B Weld FTW

jb weld :clap: that’ll work the best if you can get to the back of the hole.

How does that work? Your hatch is going to rust out. Do it one time the right way. It will be worth it in the long run

JB weld will work if done properly. I used it to shave the holes from the OE wing on my old 95 GS-R. Sand down the paint from behind the hole and jb weld a quarter or a penny depending on the size of the hole. Mask off the holes from the front and sand it down a bit. Place a lamp directly on the holes and let the JB weld cure. After a day or so, fill the hole from the front with Bondo. You should use no more than 1/4th the size of a pencil eraser.

Use a hole puncher and punch out a few cirlces of 320 grit sand paper. glue it to the top of a pencil eraser and let that dry. Sand down the bondo until it is flat and not noticable. Spray some primer and sand down again. Spray a decent sealer and let that dry. Use touch up paint in the can and paint it.

Remove the masking tape and mask an area larger than that. Scuff the clear off of the surrounding area and wipe it clean. Spray the area with clear and let it cure/dry.

After it is fully dry, blend the edge of the paint with a rag and rubbing compund. Wait a month or so and wax the area.

It has been 4 years since I did that to my old Integra and there is no sign of rust anywhere. Last year, the car was painted by a real body shop and they were actually impressed with the way it was done:stare:

If you have the means, definitely get it done at the body shop. If you are inexperienced in body work, then I would just leave the emblems as is.

[QUOTE=DA_BEATER;1716541]JB weld will work [SIZE=“4”]if done properly[/SIZE]. I used it to shave the holes from the OE wing on my old 95 GS-R. Sand down the paint from behind the hole and jb weld a quarter or a penny depending on the size of the hole. Mask off the holes from the front and sand it down a bit. Place a lamp directly on the holes and let the JB weld cure. After a day or so, fill the hole from the front with Bondo. You should use no more than 1/4th the size of a pencil eraser.

Use a hole puncher and punch out a few cirlces of 320 grit sand paper. glue it to the top of a pencil eraser and let that dry. Sand down the bondo until it is flat and not noticable. Spray some primer and sand down again. Spray a decent sealer and let that dry. Use touch up paint in the can and paint it.

Remove the masking tape and mask an area larger than that. Scuff the clear off of the surrounding area and wipe it clean. Spray the area with clear and let it cure/dry.

After it is fully dry, blend the edge of the paint with a rag and rubbing compund. Wait a month or so and wax the area.

It has been 4 years since I did that to my old Integra and there is no sign of rust anywhere. Last year, the car was painted by a real body shop and they were actually impressed with the way it was done:stare:

If you have the means, definitely get it done at the body shop. If you are inexperienced in body work, then I would just leave the emblems as is.[/QUOTE]

that’s the key word :rofl:

Why not use that fiberstrand stuff. Thats what I did and that stuff is strong! Shaved my spoiler and antenna. When I have the will power to finish all the emblems itll be awesome.

i just did mine and all we used was that structural adhesive that they glue the corvettes together with to fill in the holes and then a skim coat of mud

looks like they were never there and was easy to do -i had them filled in in like two minutes and it was cured in like a half hour
with mud work and everthing it was like an hour and we were done and in primer and satin black-i love the hot rod look with the satin so i am gonna do the whole car like that

does any one have any pics of what it looks like after everything? and also pics of it with the plugs?

We do have picture of the plugs somewhere around here, but that’s for antana and rear wipers.

Weld it shut

He speaks the truth. My welder had a hard time welding it up though, it hole kept on expanding. Damn thin honda metal…kept on warping.

Id say fiberglass is you friedn for the little holes. Havent had any problems and its really srtong.

The right way is to weld it, any other way is wrong and half assed

i just did this the other day - i have a 90 Ls and i just got a gs hatch with the 3rd brake light in the spoiler
the hatch had all the badges on it

  • i used a heat gun to takem emblems off in combo with a plastic bondo spreader
    -used a rubber strip wheel to take adhesive off , a few splashes of dupont basemaker to get remaining residue off
    -wiped the whole area down with wax and grease remover
    -used a angle grinder with 50 grit disc to grind back area around the holes and get it down to metal
    -feathed the area out with 220, also sanded out the inside of the holes i wanted to weld

i got the pneunamatic punch and practiced filling holes on some sheet metal for quite awhile , once i was confident i went to work on my hatch

  • i welded with sufficent heat to penetrate but not too much that i burnt throught i did one hole then moved to the next emblem did one hole and then moved , it never got too hot , and even when i was grinding the welds down i moved around alot and took my time so as not to warp i t- grinding causes almost as much heat as the welding
  • once the metal was smooth and welded completley and i had the area feathered out i put a skim of body filler and blocked the all out,
    in the next couple of days ill spray 3 coats of high build primer and block the entire hatch out

Weld it up man, no one wants to do the same bodywork twice.

Also I am a fan of using kitty hair (fiberglass impregnated bondo) on top of the welds instead of regular bondo. It will help to seal the welds from oxidation. Nothing too thick though, after that you can finish it with spot putty.

:iagree: [QUOTE=hb420;1718659]The right way is to weld it, any other way is wrong and half assed[/QUOTE]