My car stalled, and then after it started I heard some loud knocking from under the engine… Exactly where the Third connecting rod is, so I spent over $450 to buy new pistons, connecting rods, and rod bearings.
But it turns out that the crankshaft lobe is too small now and the third connecting rod rattles around with the engine off…
Do I have to take the engine out? I think so… but if I do, do I have to remove both left and right axles from the engine before I do anything? Or will they just pop out as I lift the engine out with a lift? …Honestly this sounds like a pain in the rear, anyone ever changed out a crankshaft before? If not, can anyone tell me how to take the engine out? Just briefly list all the MAJOR parts that I need to disconnect, i’ll take care of the little hoses and wires, and engine mounts…
you can take out the crankshaft from underneath by removing the oil pan and the the crankshaft cradle thing (sorry forgot the correct name) that holds the crankshaft and bearings in place.but honestly it will be a real pain in the ass unless you have a lift and still then it will be difficult. It would probably be easier to take the engine out so you can work on it upside down. Also while the crankshaft is out you might want to get the correct bearing clearances and to see how much crank walk you have just to be on the safe side of things so if you need to get bigger bearings you can. Thats just my own opinion as far as removing the engine im sure somebody else will chime in. Hope i could help
I suggest not to try replacing the crank in car. Its heavy and you most likely won’t be able to lift it up and do it correctly/and or getting the thurst to align
Remove engine and have the crank reworked and get correct sized bearings
make sure to plasti guage/measure the clearances
you would be better off taking the engine out and the axles can come out fairly easily after there released from the wheel hub which i suggest you remove first because you not only damage the axkles/halfshafts themselves but also potentially damage the housing them selves if you try to lift the motor out with them on once you have the harnees and all the hoses taken off and you have the mount bolts taken out trans mounts and the linkage if you want to lift the trans out as well you can have the motor out with in a matter of hours if done correctly also its easer to have the motor upside on a jack stand to remove the crank
Thanks guys! All of you!
This is far more information than I expected =]
One more thing though; it just occured to me that I have taken the head off my car about 3 times when I changed the pistons and head gasket… Couldn’t I just disassemble the engine piece by piece? Coz I’ve never taken a whole engine out or seen how it is done, Once I get the head off I should be clear to take the block out, right? …I might still need a jack to pull out the block though, lol.
Hondattic, I get what u’re saying, but what do u mean by “crank walk”?
and soontobe2ndGEN: If I get new Crank and Bearings I won’t have to worry about it being reworked, right? I’m saving up for a reman Crank for less than $300, and thanks for reminding me that I need new crank bearings too.
crank walk is a term coined by DSM enthusiasts that explained the phenomenon of the crankshaft and its related bearings heating up at differing rates, one expanding more or less than the other and creating a larger gap than what is healthy for normal operation.
this in turn makes the crankshaft “walk” along its bearings instead of rolling smoothly. this creates flat spots or even heavy gouges on either the crank or bearings.
in a honda, simply choosing the correct sized bearings will prevent that from happening.
in a DSM, its a little more involved (essentially replacing the whole bottom end, minus pistons and rods, with a different generations parts; block, crank, bearings, flywheel etc…)
the more you know!
Ah, clear now. Thanks! I’ll be sure they’re the right size.
However, I have no reliable means of transportation to bring an engine mount/jack that will help me take out the whole engine.
After seeing the attachments, do you think or do you know if it is possible to take out the block easier than taking the whole engine out? I have no problem spending time on my car… 5, 10, 15 hours make no difference to me, do you know if I could pull the head out by itself with the help of someone? I just want an alternative to the engine jack, Specially knowing that somehow I have to turn the engine upside down.
Thanks! Will keep you all posted and I’ll make vids. My Youtube channel
Screw it, I already took off the head yesterday, all that’s left is that I disconnect the trans from the block, take off a few hoses, and I suppose there’s a piece of metal in which the left axle goes it and can be simply detached from the block.
I’ve taken some vids of the process, they’re NOT up on Youtube yet, so don’t bother.
