Let me start off by telling you about my car. 93 GS-R with original B17a1 running stock original P61 ECU. The car was working fine until i took it apart to install energy suspension motor mount inserts, but after the installation as i was connecting the positive terminal to the battery(needed to remove the battery to get access to the front mount) i noticed a clicking sound coming from inside the car. i quickly opened the passenger door and listened closely to isolate the sound and found out the “clicking noise” was coming from the automatic shoulder seat belt control unit. thinking that the seatbelt was stuck i put the key in the ignition and turned it to the “on” position, but wait… no beeping sound? then i noticed the CEL… so i jumpered the connector (paper clip trick) to find out the code, 8 top dead center sensor. Searched on google for and it said the distributor might be bad. I got in the drivers side to try and start the car but no dice. Took the distributor cap off to check for anything unusual, but everything seemed normal with the exception of a semi burned rotor. I decided to check the resistance using a multimeter from the 8 point connector coming from the distributor and it was good. Put the cap back on and noticed that the car was making that “beeping sound” because my key was still in the “on” position. puzzled i go to the passenger side to see the seatbelt control unit was still making that sound, it wasn’t but it’s because the paperclip attached to the jumper was leaning up against the case of the control unit and giving off little sparks. i quickly moved it away from the case but then the car went back to not being functional. curious, i used electrical tape to hold the jumpered connector(with paperclip attached) to the case of the control unit to see if i could start the car, and it worked. when the jumpered connector wasnt touching the case of the control unit the car wont beep in the on position, the radio wouldnt have power, etc. but with it touching it would be semi-ok(with the exception on headlights non operational) and the car starts right up. any ideas? i’ve tried resetting the ECU by removing the fuse in the engine bay but no luck… any feedback would be greatly apperciated!
I tried reading this but the grammar is so bad that my head didn’t want to read the entire post.
Try this format
What I was doing to the car before it happened?
Type answer here
What I noticed when it happened: (Use your four of your five senses but don’t taste anything or hurt yourself.):crazy:
Type answer here bullet style
What I tried to do to fix this/these issues
Type answer here bullet style
Do you heart 80085:
Type answer here:
If you’re going to be an a$$ about it, and would like me to figure out a format that YOU can understand, then I don’t need your help. Thanks for wasting my time.
oh you’re welcome…lets see who will want to read that, lets see who will want to read this. did you know my car is having the same problem? i looked at the fuses and it was the 20amp fuse that was blown…i dunno man if you have the same kind of issue but im pretty sure you might because you know we both have the same kind of car, but who knows maybe it is. this all happened to me after i replaced the wiring harness and i began to check if my fans would turn on but they didn’t, i had to bust out the etm and start tracing where everything went, i jumpered the relay and it didn’t work…man did you know the location of the ect isn’t where the honda manual says it was gonna be? it said it was on the thermostat housing but turned out to be on the left of the oil filter. took me too long to figure this out but anyhoo when i traced it down to connector c214 and put it to ground then i knew that it had to be anything after the switch…maybe if you busted out the etm and posted what you found and was on your last wits end then we as a forum would have an answer for you but i really doubt you even tried to bust out the etm…so i hope you understood everything i said in this last paragraph that seems to be your type of writing style.
Got to agree with the above^^^, it is very hard to understand what you are saying, if you do not want to use s “format” that we can understand, we will not be able to help.
Also jumping all over someone, [and calling him an "a$$] just because he told you how it is, is not going to make you any friends here, much less get you any help.94
Holy shit! it was hard decoding your post! but i can only come up to one answer:
I had a problem like that before, turns out i burn a relay, if i was you i would check the relay first
before doing anything else.
First off, I would like to apologize for being an a$$. I’ve been frustrated trying to troubleshoot this mess and am in a rush because I’m driving the car from Seattle to San Diego in less than a week.
Second, I never even looked at how my format was because I’m posting from an iPhone. Once again, I apologize if it was difficult to understand.
I actually tried looking through the service manual(I have it PDF) and was completely baffled by the diagrams! I thought it might be elementary since I’m an electrician for the Navy, but the 12v system is really intricate!
I’ll try the things you guys mentioned and keep you guys updated. Thank you all for the suggestions.
[QUOTE=iNTEG;2235494]Holy shit! it was hard decoding your post! but i can only come up to one answer:
I had a problem like that before, turns out i burn a relay, if i was you i would check the relay first
before doing anything else.[/QUOTE]
Which relay did you replace?
Sounds like you have a grounding problem, check your main grounds, batt. post and cable clamp, batt. to chassis ground, [under batt.] and the chassis to engine ground, it should be all one cable from batt. to engine with a connection under the batt. for the chassis ground.
Also check the engine harness grounds at the thermostat housing. 94
i was thinking the same, but so far i’ve checked all grounds and they seem to be ok… 
anyone know where does the ECU get it’s ground from? i’ve check these ground on the attached photo from the service manual.
Did you fix it yet? I replace the starter/main relay that is under your dash right in the middle.
you did say your lights works and the lights inside the car works? right so i hope this helps
thanks for the replies everyone! FCM you were right, i replaced the ground coming from the chassis to the battery with one from autozone. It had an extra pigtail and i hooked that up too. Everything is fine! Just a bad ground. 