I Have Crower 403s in my car right now (I/H/E/ AFC) with a stock ECU revlimit. My buddy in his built G2 has some new Crane cams (part number ACU-261-2S-9) Both cams are NOT regrinds and cost the same price.
SHOULD I TRADE HIM??
The only reason that I would is because the ones he has makes power from 1000-7000 RPM which would work better than the 403s that I have that make power past 8200 RPM. He has an increased rev limit to exploit the 403s better.
DOES ANYBODY HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH CRANE NON VTEC CAMS??
The Crowers work great in my car, but if I can get any more mid range or torque that would be nice.
I’ve heard good things about crane cams however crower cams are widely regarded as the best camshafts for non-vtec tegs. If I were you I’d keep the crower because you might decide later you want to build up your N/A seup more and raise your redline, and you will be wishing you had the Crowers. Also, Adjustable cam gears will let you move your power band down lower, so you might want to invest in a set, such as AEM makes, and as you do more mods move your powerband higher along with your rev limit.
Yeah, I’m not going to trade; he lost the original box and part number (I don’t even know which Crane cams they are now) or the valve clearance and install data sheet.
Yeah… I just might invest in a set of cam gears ASAP here…
i gained 20ft-lb torque and 8 hp to the wheels after tuning the cams from stock settings.
I have the crower 403’s with aem cam gears, and dude, just tuning them on the dyno gave me HUGE power gains, and I have a stock ECU. My torque was the craziest improvement after tuning. Go for the cam gears, and make sure you get them tuned on the dyno.
Also invest in a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge, they can help you get even more.
Hey Blizzard. I must say I am thoroughly impressed by the numbers you have put down on dyno sheets on your home page. That is what non-turbo SR20 engines put down with cams i/h/e and some tuning and they really open up with those mods and can run real hard! I am just blown away by the fact you put 135 to the wheels as opposed to ~100whp stock. Perfect example of good tuning and a good setup…
Originally posted by joeygill Hey Blizzard, how vital is it to upgrade the valve springs n retainers when you put the 403’s in there?
I know a couple people who have the 403’s in without upgrading the valve springs and retainers, and they seem to be running fine. But running fine isn’t good enough for me. I need to be able to rev it up all the way without flinching. But if you just use common sense, upgrading your cams you should definitally do some other valvetrain work. Retainers and springs basically just add to the strength of your engine, and ability to rev higher with less wear. and $h!t, your valvetrain could be 10 years old,w hy not replace some old parts?
The valvetrain is required unless you want to do some serious engine damage. Just think, Crower recommends the valvetrain on new engines with those cams, imagine what they’d say about a 10 year old engine with those cams.
Originally posted by zero_effect The valvetrain is required unless you want to do some serious engine damage. Just think, Crower recommends the valvetrain on new engines with those cams, imagine what they’d say about a 10 year old engine with those cams.
Originally posted by zero_effect The valvetrain is required unless you want to do some serious engine damage. Just think, Crower recommends the valvetrain on new engines with those cams, imagine what they’d say about a 10 year old engine with those cams.
The reason i asked is because Crower claims that you can use the 403’s w/o the need of touching your valvetrain, unlike the 404s. Of course, if you can afford it there is no harm in upgrading valvetrain. Just wanted to know if it’s crucial.
Actually that is true that crower used to say you did not need the valvetrain to run the 403’s. However they recently changed that policy and if you try and order directly from them they will tell you that they highly recommend the valvetrain with both the 403’s and 404’s. On a side note I recently saw a guy destroy his valvetrain trying to launch at the track with 403’s and a stock valvetrain. I mean its your car and you can do whatever you want, but I wouldn’t put anything more then 402’s in without a valvetrain upgrade. The retainers are not necessary, because they only increase your redline by 200rpm generally, but with the dual springs and 403’s you should be able to set your redline to about 8200rpm safely assuming your bottom end and valves are still in good shape.
To me, that sounds kinda high, So if I did retainers, and dual springs, I could safely rev to 8400rpm redline? That is higher than a GSR, a Prelude, and a almost as high as a Type R. Assuming that your bottom end is all well.
I thought the B18A bottom end is a primary limiting factor for how high your engine can rev. That is one of the issues when doing a LS/Vtec swap, the bottom end doesn’t like to rev that high.