Cutoff point on my B20b

All of those Crvtegs out there, where do you stop at to shift, I took my jdm b20b teg to the track tonight and shifted at 6,000 rpms every time. Motor is bone stock has intake that’s it, heard our b20b’s don’t make power after 5850 rpms, don’t want to push it too far, what your opinion on this?? Thinking about cams??, which type, daily street driver. THANX:p

And you didn’t even put up times?:shock:
I would shift the b20 at whatever I used to shift the b18a at. The cams are more agressive and you should have just as much, or more, top end hp.

You obviously don’t own a teg with a B20b in it, anyhow my times are posted under a reply to B20 ecu questions on this same page.

I sure don’t but, considering everything is exactly the same between a b18b and a b20b except for the bore, you should be able to drive it basically the same. Yes that means they have the same head and valvetrain, or so that’s what I’ve always heard, and will continue to believe until someone shows facts as to otherwise. And considering your b18a made peak hp at 6000rpm, what did you shift at when you raced with it? Shift points should be higher than whatever you used to shift at with the b18a. Thus concludes all of my two cents.

From the dyno charts I looked at with stock B20b’s, the hp starts to drift off after 5850 rpm, I took my ls teg close to 6600 rpm on the track, this way at next shift you’ll be higher in the power band of the ls, the b20 makes alot of power starting at around 4,000 maybe little lower, so I shifted it at 6,000 rpms, also I think the b20’s aren’t made to rev that high (6600). Last thing I wanna do is blow my new motor, however still curious what other crvtegs have to say bout this

If your B20 puts out power similar to mine, than you should be shifting much closer to and over 6500 to get the most power after the shift.

“also I think the b20’s aren’t made to rev that high (6600). Last thing I wanna do is blow my new motor”

You afraid to drive it? Thats a waste of a swap then… there is no reason the B20 is more prone to blowing than any other similar Honda engine… B18A/B and the like.


I don’t have my b20 swap in yet either, but i do know that the b20z factory redline is at 6700 according to the civic hybrid page.

It does make sense that the b20s power will drop off a little sooner than the b18s, with all things being equal other than the bore. But even if it makes less power at 6.5k than a 4k (assuming you went an shifted at 6k to end up at 4k), you’d likely get more power to the wheels anyway, by being in the lower gear.

You saying that you got a 15.6 1/4 by shifting a 6k and spinning through first gear?:shock:


See, no one listens to whitey. You guys expressed the same points I pointed out to him. Maybe he’ll listen to you though. :confused:

remember the b20z is different than the b20b

Originally posted by 92GS-R
remember the b20z is different than the b20b

the b20z is different than the USDM b20b. The b20z was only offered in the US and is the same as the JDM b20b.