Ok i know everyone bashes cut springs but im bored and want to see what the car looks like on cut eibach sportline springs,i currently have tein s tech springs on tokico blues and i want another inch out of my suspension.i was wanting to know how many coils do i have to cut out to get a inch or so lower than the teins.i already cut out on coil out of the eibachs and the car sat 3 inches higher than the teins.the teins lower the car 2 inches all the way around where as the eibachs lower the front 1.8 and rear 1.4 but is a lot stiffer…so how many coils do i have to remove from the eibach springs to get the drop of 3 inches
I’ve never cut lowering springs but I have cut a lot of factory springs. It’s usually a cut, install, repeat kinda thing until you get the height your looking for. Sorry I can’t be more help. If it where factory springs I’d just tell you to cut 3 coils and call it a day but that’s not the case. Good luck!
I have sportlines with tokico blues I think if you cut it another inch the ride will feel pretty awful I think you should just save up for koni yellows and ground controls. Or just get th gcs and buy tokico illuminas and sell your spirings, because you will ruin th spring rate by cutting the springs and probably lose performance for looks and if you care more for looks get Megan coil sleeves. I’m saving up for konis and gc you’ll be glad you did because it’s better to do it right the first time will save you a lot of headaches and although it’s more xpensive in the long run you’ll probably buy that set up or full coils.
Be patient 
I’m sure you can find someone who will trade for coil overs. Cutting springs that are already lowered is retarded.
Cutting springs isn’t as bad as it sounds. Colin explains it well.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?211710-How-long-does-it-take&p=2244401&viewfull=1#post2244401
Colin’s post is partially right but there’s more to it than that. Notice the pic, a stock oem spring with even coils for a UNIFORM rate of travel and rebound, vs the aftermarket one that will change bc of it’s configuration. Static vs progressive (spring rate of change over travel). Follow? Cutting an aftermarket spring can actually be dangerous, b/c the spring is wound to travel and rebound a certain way based on it’s application. The blox spring above will get progressively tighter as it corners, and begin resisting sooner, increasing your handling, whereas the oem spring will compress until told to stop. Watch an oem car corner you see a large rate of “lean”, vs an aftermarket spring that is forcing the car to stay more level. a cut spring won’t do that properly. Tire travel is negligible. in addition the spring wont sit properly in its tophat or seat which can cause spring POP while driving, which is dangerous b/c the pop is oftentimes the spring coming out of its seat or tophat. Not kosher if it happens during an evasive maneuver. Furthermore your rates are carefully calculated for each spring, when you cut them, you can not guarantee that the rates will be equal on all 4 sides so your overall suspension is now no longer optimal for the application.
Remember a suspension is not just about ride. It is also about how a car accelerates, brakes, corners, recovers from road changes, etc. This is expressly why I’m against ebay coilovers as well as cutting springs. Ebay coils have no R&D behind them for the applications they are for, and cutting springs you are removing the way the spring was supposed to work (in laymans terms) in the manufacturers eyes. Your suspension and tires are your contact to the ground. It’s something your manufacturer took a lot of time to make sure worked properly and keeps you safe. An aftermarket company with a rep does the same thing. Don’t skimp on either one fellas, for your own sake and the sake of the safety of other drivers.
Just my .02
Lol My friends used to cut their springs back in the early 90’s, when performance parts were slim pickin 
Don’t do it. Just get some coil over sleeves if you want a cheap way of dropping it to check appearance
[QUOTE=icemanGSR;2261098]
Colin’s post is partially right but there’s more to it than that. Notice the pic, a stock oem spring with even coils for a UNIFORM rate of travel and rebound, vs the aftermarket one that will change bc of it’s configuration. Static vs progressive (spring rate of change over travel). Follow? Cutting an aftermarket spring can actually be dangerous, b/c the spring is wound to travel and rebound a certain way based on it’s application. The blox spring above will get progressively tighter as it corners, and begin resisting sooner, increasing your handling, whereas the oem spring will compress until told to stop. Watch an oem car corner you see a large rate of “lean”, vs an aftermarket spring that is forcing the car to stay more level. a cut spring won’t do that properly. [/QUOTE]
It can if done right, but yes, there are many variables, and spring seating can be a concern. Damper rate and length also needs to be considered.
Removing active coils increases the spring rate, but the issue becomes whether or not that increase in spring rate is enough to overcome the decrease in travel. That is, the spring will be shorter, lowering the car, but the increase in spring rate may not be enough to keep the suspension off the bumpstops. That is the danger. Hitting the bumpstops is equivalent to an infinite spring rate and can cause a loss of control, and at best a rough ride.
OEM springs are slightly progressive, btw. The end with the lower mean diameter has a higher spring rate to prevent the suspension from bottoming out.
[QUOTE=GoGreen;2261776]It can if done right, but yes, there are many variables, and spring seating can be a concern. Damper rate and length also needs to be considered.
Removing active coils increases the spring rate, but the issue becomes whether or not that increase in spring rate is enough to overcome the decrease in travel. That is, the spring will be shorter, lowering the car, but the increase in spring rate may not be enough to keep the suspension off the bumpstops. That is the danger. Hitting the bumpstops is equivalent to an infinite spring rate and can cause a loss of control, and at best a rough ride.
OEM springs are slightly progressive, btw. The end with the lower mean diameter has a higher spring rate to prevent the suspension from bottoming out.[/QUOTE]
Cutting springs increases spring rate incorrectly. Rate is not only determined by length of the spring but by its coils (how many, how tight, etc). Bumpstop contact is ONE danger.
Spring rate is actually independent of overall length. The dependent variables are wire diameter, mean diameter of the spring, number of active coils, and modulus of rigidity of the spring material. Colin mentioned it in his post in the other thread, but cutting a “dead” coil out of a spring would decrease ride height without impacting the spring rate.
But I think you and I are saying essentially the same thing with different terminology. Obviously it’s not comparable to a spring designed with a certain spring rate at a certain length, as the spring rate doesn’t increase proportionally with respect to overall length when cutting coils. To me that is the primary danger (not enough spring stiffness to compensate for the drop), unless one considers cutting a spring with a torch, which is not good practice at all due to the change in material properties within the heat affected zone.
Cuttng springs. Sigh. I use to do those things back in the day. Say like 1992. I hated it when lowering springs back then didn’t make tegs look good. You know what I’m talking about. The gap in the front fender versus no gap in the rear. Then you had to cut the fronts. Hey maybe they did have perfect springs out there back then but I never saw them.
Just word of advice before you cut springs. Take springs completely out of vehicle and compare the cuts if they’re even. I cut them IN the car with a dremal haha. Was very uneven.