Well, I just noticed the other day that my CV joints are starting to go… It is mostly noticed in left turns. regardless, I need to fix this… I know the best thing to do is replace the whole axle assembly. But I need to wait for my check to come in (3-4 months) Is there anything I can do to prolong my CV joints or any cheaper way to fix them? I believe its about $500 to replace the whole axle assembly… Thanks!
Do a search for axels. You can get aftermarket lifetime warranty ones for like $80 + core charge… then DIY!! 
Dev
Originally posted by Dev90GS
[B]Do a search for axels. You can get aftermarket lifetime warranty ones for like $80 + core charge… then DIY!!
Dev [/B]
the OEM ones are like $500 (parts.com) You mean to tell me I can get an aftermarket axle assembly for $80? I’ll search right now and see what I can find… If you know where I can get this let me know… Thanks again…
Ya, the OEM ones are spendy but as far as I know they don’t have a lifetime warranty. Go to like NAPA, AutoZone, Pep Boys or some store like that. I know (and so do most peeps on here) that the aftermarket axels aren’t the BEST quality, but many members haven’t had any probs with them. I say, as do others, you can’t really lose with a lifetime warranty
Anywho… good luck with your searchings! 
Dev
i just did mine 2 nights ago. i spent $67 w/ core at auto zone for the driver’s side axel assembly. 8 months ago i did the same for my passenger side. if you don’t pull your axle first before you go and buy a new on from auto zone, it’ll cost you $130sumthin’. thats w/out the core. (its a $55 core charge) you can always bring the core back after you do the job and collect your $55.
If I hear the “clicking” when I turn left… It means my passenger side CV joint is going, correct?
If you look you should see a torn boot on the axel. That is probably why it is clicking the boot breaks and the grease comes and but it leaves the joint sticky and dirt gets stuck on there and it grinds the joint down.
I just bought 2 remanufactured axels today for $256.78 But I will get $110 back when I take in the core so it really only cost like $146.78 for 2.
one side was 69.99 and the other was 59.99 plus two $55 core charges.
and they have a limited lifetime warranty.
just do them both at the same time so you wont have to take it apart again in the next month or so to fix the other one.
ya. or i hear you can get a patch kit. or you can do what i did and buy a boot for 7, cut it lengthwise, stuff grease in it, and ducttape the hell out of it haha
or, you can do a cheap fix, buy the cv boot repair kit for about $14 at any auto parts store and get an extra set of big hose clamps too, you’ll need them. but if you’ve been driving around too long with torn cv’s. you will have to replace the whole axle because it is bad on the bearings when all the grease is coming out.
i dont think there’s any cheap fix. if they are starting to go, they’re gonna go. especially when they’re clicking and clunking already.
ya sorry when its clicking badly you need to replace it. mine wasnt, i just noticed the tear so i patched the sucker up
find out what side is clicking for sure! Jack up left front or right front till tire off ground! Put car in gear turn wheel to the right and left while the wheel is turning. (have hand brake on) speedo must read min 15mph you should hear it clicking when turning adn to save $$ replace only the clicking cv and just go check out a scrap yard for the part!
You said you wanted to save money and thats the way to save!
Originally posted by twin54
[B]find out what side is clicking for sure! Jack up left front or right front till tire off ground! Put car in gear turn wheel to the right and left while the wheel is turning. (have hand brake on) speedo must read min 15mph you should hear it clicking when turning adn to save $$ replace only the clicking cv and just go check out a scrap yard for the part!
You said you wanted to save money and thats the way to save!
[/B]
its harder tho and costs only a bit less which is why they recommend doing the whole axle. oh this is if you pay for labor. definitely cheaper if you just do the boot.
scrap yard haha just pay the friggin 7 even im not that cheap!
look my dad was just sugesting an idea cause he said he was tight for $$! LOL as for labour…well he an acura tech for past 10 years so my dad sometimes forgets that you have to pay some $$ to do what he does naturally top our cars!
i just bought a pair of remanufactured axles, both the left and right assembly, for $55 each with a $60 core charge. minehave been clicking for over a month and the left CV boot is almost completely ripped.
The ‘quickboot’ is just for use if yu actually catchthe broken boot before all the grease is gone and before it gets all gritty and worn. I used one awhile back, I just happened to notice the tear during an oil change. If you are lowered, it pays to check the boots for tears every so often. On another note, why do the boots tear? is it because they dont have enough slack to withstand the angle of the axle on a lowered car?
when you lower a vehicle you are changing the Geometry of the suspension system. So say your car is 7" off the ground and you do a 2" drop on it. Now the car sits 5" off the ground. Well you changed the spring height, but what about the lower and upper control arms? That’s why you buy a Camber correction kit, it pushes the upper arm out to, align the geometry which in turns, hold the steering knuckle level, and holds the cv axle in line. CV Axles are flewable to a extent. but when you lower the car, it forces the axle to an unnatrual angle. Which in turns breaks the boot from stress and ackward angle. I hope this makes sense. I read it in my racing books.
You don’t need to remove the wheels to check for a split boot, just feel the inside of your rim … should be caked in grease. Or just slide behind the wheel and look for a split.
And for the amount of work you have to do, to replace just the boot … I’d much rather replace the whole axle, because after all, time is money too … just drop the $70, and be done with it is what I say! All there is to remove and replace the axle is 3 bolts (lower ball joint castle nut 17mm, you will need a small 2-prong puller to pull the joint apart), damper fork lower bolt (17mm), and damper fork upper bolt (14mm) … then pry the axle out at the shaft/tranny (depending which side), it will pop eventually when the C-clip gives. If it won’t pop (had this problem), then get a pry bar, that fits in the space, and tap it in until the clip pops. If you wreck the seal, make sure to buy a new one. Then install is easy. Takes 30 mins. Oh and don’t forget to put the cotter pins back in, and punch the new spindle nut after torqueing it to 130lb-ft. HTH