I am replaceing both my outer CV joint boots on saturday and am wondering if this is an easy job. it seems like it would be but it all depend on how the new boots go on. i am picking them up tomorow so i havent seen them yet. do you have to take off the whole caliper and everything else to put it on? or do they clamp on some how? A friend and i are doing it and we both are mechanically inclined but have never messed with cv joints before. So if anyone has done this before please let me know of any tricks or surprises we might run into. any help would be great thanks. Dont know if this matters but my suspension is at stock height. thanks
I just replaced my outer boot on the passenger side last weekend and I would say it’s not too difficult of a job. As with everything else, I’m sure that the second one will go a lot smoother and faster than the first. I would recommend removing the axles from the car and doing the work on a bench. Hope that all goes well.
-nino
Pull the axels out of the car. Cut the old boot off , clean the grease out. Be sure to do a good job cleaning out the grease , dirt and sand will kill a bearing. Put the axle shaft in a vise and use a drift and a hammer to seperate the outer bearing & hub from the shaft. slide the boot on to the shaft, reinstall the shaft into the Bearing / hub and make sure that it “clicks”. The snap ring needs to click into place or your axle could seperate while driving. Put the grease into the boot slide it into place. Install the outer hub clamp, push out all the air out of the boot and them install the inner shaft clamp. If you are inclined you should have no problems.
its a biatch if its your first time and have no idea. anyways, you might need 2 person for this, when your driver side axles come out, and the inner boot next to the drive shaft i believe, if the axle slips all the way out and the little rectangles come out of the shaft, oh man, sometimes, this can be a biatch. you have to have someone hold it straight and you slide the rectangles in at a perfect angle so it will slide back in. one way in, one way out, but ther are three of them. sliding the whole axle and driveshaft back in, be carefull you dont pull the axle away from the shaft especially if the new boot is alredy on, if it slips all the way out, it wont go back in, you have to pull it out and redo the rectangle thing again.
what driveshaft do i use with the b16 1 gen on G2 on the passengers side? do i use the 89 shaft or the 90-93 shaft?
i have to change the boot as well, my shaft makes big noise and i have no idea why… i assume maybe the grease came out …
what do you guys think?
it is probably a hard job, considering you have to remove the halfshafts, remove spindle nuts, drain transaxle diff. oil, remove damper fork, remove the lower ball joint nuts, etc. etc. Thats the hard part. Putting the boots on isnt really too difficult, but you have to be careful not to damage them. Do you have a chilton or helms manual?? one of those manuals will help you out big time. I would consider buying one to do a job like this, it helps out a lot.
Do you mind telling us why you’re replacing them?
I would highly recomend not replacing just the boots, sometimes if you have a torn boot chances are there may be some damage already , as in dirt and debris , this will damage the bearings,the boots wont solve this problem at all, and depending on the boots if they are the ones that wrap around the shaft , or the oem replacements , they both leak as you need a special clamp presser to clamp it , be for you know you will wish youd just spent the extra money to replace them , auto zone has them life time warrenty , I seem to break them every 3 months , due to too much torque , but they are free to replace , so no biggie