i can not find any past forums about convertion my Ls interga to manual seat belts? can someone help asap!
The topic has been covered but for some reason I also had a hard time finding the old posts (was planning to give you some links).
Parts you will need:
- all front seatbelts and all bolts/hardware…etc
- a/b pillar covers (JDM is gray, CDM is black)
- c pillar covers (only needed if you’re using the CDM fronts)
- floor carpet
- rear setbelt bolt covers (rubber piece at top of belt where it bolts to the c-pillar. these are only needed if you’re using the CDM pillar covers)
Mount the female end of the front belts. These buckles need to be bolted to the car down below the seats on the “tunnel” which the exhaust runs under. To do this you’ll need to weld a nut in place for each buckle (passenger and driver)
Mount the shoulder/lap belt assembly to the b-pillar. To do this you’ll need to weld a nut to the b pillar. There is already a whole there to show you where the bolt needs to be mounted.
In this photo you can see the hole I’m taking about (NOT the one w/ the red residue):
- Mount the shoulder/lap belt “retractor” behind the rear door jamb. There is one existing bolt hole which works but you need to create the other mounting location.
In this photo the canadian retractor is put in place and shows that the top can be bolted to the existing hole but there is nothing at the bottom to bolt to:
Here is a photo of how one person was able to create a lower mounting point for the retractor:
I’m not going to bother trying to type out how exactly you can create the needed mounting locations. If you’re used to basic fabrication and are handy with a welder then the process should be pretty self explanatory once you get all the parts and start to mock it up. Otherwise you’re going to want to pay someone who knows what they’re doing to do it for you.
i tryed searching for few days but old post cant find…and colin, thanks for the time posting it, im at the process of having all the plastic off, bought dc belts, bottom retractor bolts to top hole like in pic, just thats were the main fabercating is what i need help on, guess il make a bottom bracket and belt as in pick, and cut a hole few inches above top hold to slide a nut down and weld in…so not what i needed but appreciate your time
well i cut the inner part of a 88 ef piller about 4 inches of it an welded it right were the hole is an it works fine same shape as what is on there …just how i did mine
That’s not a completely bad idea, but it’s also not that great of one. The look will be good and it will probably be strong enough, but “butt” welds like that are not the strongest, it’s best to have some overlapping metal. It all depends on if you can weld both sides, how thick the metal is and how good of a welder you are. I only have a moderate amount of experience welding (mainly cages and basic frame bracing, not really any sheet metal work) and so I personally would consult a fabricator regarding his beliefs on the strength of the setup you mentioned.
kmaz, you’re going to have a hell of a time “dropping” a nut down to weld in place. The most commonly use method is to:
Cut a hole (centered over the existing hole) just slightly larger than the head of the nut you’ll be using.
Cut an appropriately sized piece of plate steel. Drill a hole in that plate steel larger than the bolt diameter but smaller than the nut.
Center the nut over the hole in the steel plate, weld in place.
Take the piece you just welded together and stick the nut through the hole in the pillar. Weld the plate to the pillar.
That method gives you a lot of surface area to run a good bead.
nice to see someone used my old pictures, i still need to find a four door set for my db1. If you need more information i can either find my old posts and some extra pictures if i have any, or answer anymore questions you have.
ps: on that lower bracket if you look inside that cavity, the bracket i made is about 6-8" appx (the car is long gone now) long with a bend towards the bottom. It is welded down both sides and in the front. For the nuts i enlarged the hole in the b pillar and welded a nut to the plate and sunk it into the pillar. This is same as with the female end in the exhaust tunnel. Sorry if my grammar sucks today, not too sober at the moment.
Has anyone tried this with DC2 seatbelts yet?
This is perfect timing, i just got my JDM belts on Monday.
The other idea ive heard is to weld a nut to one of those really heavy/thick washers and then weld the washer to the body, is that an acceptable idea? I would imagine using a peice of steel stock would be better, since it will likely be bigger than a washer and have more holding it on. Not exactly sure how ill go about it yet, but the pic of the retractor mount is great.
Assuming the washer and steel plate are made from the same grade and thickness of steel then it’s the exact same thing just slightly different shape. I’d personally choose the steel plate because you get to shape it yourself and I have random steel bits laying around. But if you found the right washer, that would be fine. But you’ll want to do it like I said and still drill the hole in the b-pillar so the nut is recessed.
kwint, I’m sure there are dozens of different seatbelts you could install. the concept is the same. You might have slightly more fab work in getting the retractor to mount properly. The real issue with manual belts in a DA is not related to the belts or retractors or even the welding. It’s the pillar covers, those are model specific, DC pillar covers aren’t gonna fit your DA. Without the proper pillar covers you’re going to have a hole where your old seatbelt tracks were. Plus there won’t be the proper gap between the b-pillar cover and lower rear side lining for the belt to slip through (the belt which leads from the b-pillar mounting location to the retractor).
Yea a few minutes ago i decided i should probably look for the panels, why not. Might as well. The guy thats supposed to do the welding for me is a friend of a family member, ive actually never met him. Apparently he’s the best welder their company has. I just have to get everything together, and he’ll come over and do it for me. I dont have any steel laying around, and thats when the washer thing came to mind. Ill have to take a look around and see what i can find.
if i can find a da to take pictures of. I can give much more indepth illustrations and details.
As far as a dc-2 i have no experience. i have been able to find enough canadian da integras in houston pick-a-parts.
heres the belt retracter from dc integra,bolt fine,need weld a bracketforgot to mention i have a cage, so going b hard doing other processes you guys had, so here where i plan cutting with air diagrinder and small disk, droping nut and threading bolt wont b hard for me…and i plan drilling two small holes next to the big hold to weld nut on backside panel to holdor i can not do that and bolt belt to original hole of the auto sliderwala
just curious why you are running manual belts with a cage…?
Good question there. Also why aren’t you using the original mounting location on the b pillar. That doesn’t look all to safe.
reason is i sold my bride seats,took my takatas out and picked up s2k seats which have no hole for harness. I just wanna b able to get in buckle and drive off…not squeze in bucket seat and hook up harnesses…and i broke out the auto track long time ago and now want manual belts…idn, i think of something and do it, if i ever want bucket seats in future, i just gotta bolt in and hook harneses in…and il always have manual belts just in case…
and in one pic i bolted the belt into the auto track hole,probably not right angle and not fit with plastic but still would b strong.im tring to find manual belt interior trim still…if anyone know where some are or who selling please let me know…
il post picks later when i get in, most likly cut hole,put nut behind panes,lower but bolt in to hold nut,drill 2 small holes next to bolt hole and take nut behind bpiller…