Took off the right spark plug wire and spark plug to see if i had any spark, no. Took distr… cap of and there was alot of dust. Rotor was still intack but there was alot of play. Is that normal?
u know i’m curious about this aswell my rotor has alot of play too… umm on the other hand dose it crank? and is is getting fuel?
Yes it cranks and its getting fuel because I can smell it.
umm i wouldnt say it just the distributor rotor cuz mine starts and runs with the play in it… but it might be the whole distributor…
Coil. Even when it checks out resistancewise, it’s still shorting out to the mount bar. Bakelite only keeps the coils inside soaked in whatever that is. It’s thin enough to allow the spark to jump to ground. Look for an oil drop ina puddle like shine, about 1/4" dia where it meets the metal bar.
I’m doing a tune up this weekend after what I saw. What would cause my rotor to look like that? Spark plug, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter. What else should I change this weekend. What brands and where to get it.
Test the ICM (Ignition Control Module) also the MFR (Master Fuel Relay, yes, before you ask, ignition runs through it too, that was the cause of my last "no spark, no start. Fixed by resoldering the cracked joints in it)
The Helms manual has the steps on how to test the Coil, and ICM. Testing the MFR, you need your eyes, you can usually see the cracks in the solder joints.
if you have play in your shaft i would make sure to replace the distributor
you dont want this to happen
OMFG!! ouch. if there is play. replace it. start looking now. i had a hell of a time finding one for a fair price. tho i also didnt have this godsend of a site to look on. as for the mfr u should be able to find them for 15-25 shipped all day. i got a brand new one for 2.99 shipped on ebay. but i think i got lucky. lol
I changed plugs,wires,rotor,cap, and fuel filter but still not starting. Would the main fuel relay cause me not to have spark? Fuel pump is ok. Is there anything else i can check and how do i check it? thanks
When you turn the key to the ON position, you should momentarily hear a click from the relay when the check engine light turns off. Tried and heard the click from the relay. Does that mean it’s ok?
Yes, read post #7, where I said that it did, even specifically commented on it being the cause of my last “no spark” problem.
I don’t mean to sound like a dick, but your asking a question I answered almost a month ago in this very thread. And the thread is only 1 page long.
When you turn the key to the ON position, you should momentarily hear a click from the relay when the check engine light turns off. Tried and heard the click from the relay. Does that mean it’s ok?
Not necessarily. You need to resolder the joints in it. If you don’t know how, try grabbing one out of a JunkYard, or borrowing one from a friends car.
[QUOTE=operator207;1723093]Yes, read post #7, where I said that it did, even specifically commented on it being the cause of my last “no spark” problem.
I don’t mean to sound like a dick, but your asking a question I answered almost a month ago in this very thread. And the thread is only 1 page long.
Not necessarily. You need to resolder the joints in it. If you don’t know how, try grabbing one out of a JunkYard, or borrowing one from a friends car.[/QUOTE]
I will try it, thanks.
Car is fixed!!!
Change to coil and ignitior. Started just fine. Thanks guys:excite: :excite: :excite: :excite: :excite: :excite:
The ignitor was checkable while on the car and powered up. That was a given as to whether the ignitor was good/bad. The coil, on the other hand can check out fine resistancewise for both sides of the windings but when under load:gunright: will fire to that bracket and not the plugs. Did you by chance look for that tell tale sign I mentioned? After all, it would be one of the few times I advised here correctly. Just ask snipeymike.:roll:
By the way, it’s not a good idea to disconnect a plug wire and look for spark as that’s how this short happens. Use an in-line bulb type checker so that you still have continuity.
[QUOTE=evtsteward;1741392]
By the way, it’s not a good idea to disconnect a plug wire and look for spark as that’s how this short happens. Use an in-line bulb type checker so that you still have continuity.[/QUOTE]
Uhh, what do you think a spark plug does? It sparks. You can disconnect the wire from the plug, and check for spark that way, the only thing you have to worry about is igniting fuel, or YOU becoming part of the ground loop.
I bought a mfr from acura but didn’t start right up but its all good. I ended up buying a distributor for 10$ and swapped out the coil and ignitor.
Started just fine.
Uhh, what do you think a spark plug does? It sparks. You can disconnect the wire from the plug, and check for spark that way, the only thing you have to worry about is igniting fuel, or YOU becoming part of the ground loop.
So you have an extra plug to stuff in the plug wire so that you don’t need to remove the one in the head? Geez, I’ve done what I mentioned, I’ve seen other people get antsy about holding the plug wire, I’ve done and seen people get close enough to ground to have it spark and I’ve seen people drop and run, which causes a no ground situation. All I’m saying is if given the opportunity to have spark coming to the plug and it “not” grounding, then the coil will arc to the bracket. Ask any of the next three technicians you run into.:rant: