Dart engine blocks?

ok has anyone used one?
heard of anyone using one?
www.dartheads.com
they make a B20 but i want to know is if its actually setup for VTEC
thank yall
robertw

It a B series block… V tec is controlled by the head not the block

well then why do you have to modify b18a to run vtec, also a stock honda b20 never came equipt with vtec however i talked to dart today and they said that the b20 is casted the same as a stock b20 however it has the features of a vtec bottom end
so now i can run a 2.1 liter vtec motor without running it like an ls vtec
robertw

erl performance sell short blocks that are fully streetable and can handle up to 30-40 psi and 700 hp they are b16 blocks with oversize bearings , and are sleeved and have a superdeck 2 deckplate and come with a 1.8 crank. they’r guaranteed and go for around 5k my shop sells them. we had a guy with the dart block with the t- top type sleeves in a hatch come in and no matter what we did the thing would run hot.

Cooling issue?

Ok I’m calling bullshit on this whole thread

Of course the DART Blocks run hot, because HOLY F’n SHIT they don’t have cooling jackets around the cylinders because JEESUS F’n Christ

It’s a god damn full race piece and it’s only meant for trips down the 1/4 mile

Let me reiterate “you cannot run race parts on the street and expect them to be streetable”

And what exactly is the point of trying to build a 2.1L fully built twin cam anyway ?

I do pretty well for myself but the cost of tires alone would bankrupt me not to metion tank fulls of 96-101 octane for some rediculous power you could never even use.

You want a good street set up. Get a b20 have a competent tuner set up some boltons and mild fuel tuning and if you really want to go balls out pick up a shorter geared box and some good tires, very few cars will be faster if you can drive decently and it will last a long time.

yes I follow my own advice, and yes even motors I build for race purposes would still easily work on the streets and pass the sniffer.

i dont know where you got your info on the cooling jackets but here are the specs on the blocks, also it my be bs to you but i want to know, no one says you cant run a full race motor on the street. im not trying to be a dick

• Dart B18 block has stock deck height, standard 81.5mm bore, optional 84.5mm bore.

• Dart B20+ block has extra-tall 8.900" (226mm) deck height, 84.5mm bore for
increased displacement.

• Manufactured from aerospace quality C355-T6 virgin aluminum alloy for maximum
strength and durability.

• Replaceable ductile iron dry sleeves are fully supported to reduce bore distortion and
enhance ring seal.

• Closed deck design increases rigidity and improves head gasket sealing.

• Steel main caps with high-strength bolts increase bottom end strength and minimize
bearing bore distortion.

• Extra large water jackets increase coolant circulation around cylinders.

• Standard piston oil sprayers reduce piston temperatures to extend life and prevent
detonation.

• Standard piston oil sprayers reduce piston temperatures to extend life and prevent
detonation.

• Dart blocks use stock components, including oil pan, oil pump, water pump,
alternator, and timing belt tensioner.
robertw

Originally posted by robertw
features of a vtec bottom end

Here’s your answer:

Originally posted by robertw
• Standard piston oil sprayers reduce piston temperatures to extend life and prevent detonation.

dart FTW!!!

im going to be building a Dart extended block b20 vtec to put in either a DA or a EG, or EK hatch dont know which body im getting yet. saw this build on honda tuning a while back they pulled 268whp with a/c and p/s full interior and running on 91 octane gas out here in NY we can run 93 which will help a bit more but that set up was sick. im planning on going with a b16 head and itb’s fully built DART build coming for me…

Dart stuff is really exspencive but worth the money. I still think this thread should of ended 4 years ago.