Hi… had this problem a while - just narrowed it down. Wondering if anyone has seen this or has some advice.
I recently replaced the ICU and the blinker/washer sticks on the steering column…
Now… when I pop the trunk, fuse 11 blows under the dash fuse box. Lose the dashboard lights (just the back lights I think) and my tail lights dont work.
I also disconnected all tail lights today and it still blew.
I’ve disconnected the green wire to the latch for now and everything works. Could it be a bad trunk latch?
When I dismount the latch from the trunk and ‘pop’ it - the whole assembly is charged as I can see and hear sparking from the pull cable… also- was heating up. Then as soon as it touched a ground, the fuse blew.
That is strange, the only thing at the hatch will be latch switch, it is a grounding switch, it supplies a ground to the “CARGO LIGHT” and the “HATCH OPEN WARNING LIGHT” in the cluster, the cargo light is on fuse 14, same as dome and front map lights, [if you have them], the hatch open warning light is on fuse 23.
Fuse 11 is the dash lights and running lights, [tail lights] fuse.
The only way I can see this happening is if the lead from the latch switch, [green/black] is shorting to the tail light wiring, red/black.
To test, remove cargo light bulb, keep ign. switch off, unplug the green/black from the latch switch, turn on the running lights, test the green/black for power, if you have power at the green/black when the park lights are on, then there is a short between the green/black and a red/black.
If you leave the cargo light bulb in place ot if the ign. is on you will read 12V+, [power] on the green/black, it is the power on the other side of the cargo bulb/hatch warning bulb 94
To test, remove cargo light bulb, keep ign. switch off, unplug the green/black from the latch switch, turn on the running lights, test the green/black for power, if you have power at the green/black when the park lights are on, then there is a short between the green/black and a red/black.
Thanks - I did this before but now your email confirmed.
I did remove the light bulb as well as the entire socket. And I do read 12Vs at the green/black wire that goes to the latch when I put the headlight switch on (first spot).
Also - there is a delay when I turn my headlights on - the circuit that blows the furse (dash lights and tail lights) does not turn on immediately. There is a few second delay.
I do have aftermarket tail lights (and headlights) - installed a few years ago. But, I completely disconnected those a few days ago and still blew a fuse 11.
I think I’ll have to disconnect the J/Cs at the right side of the trunk and then ground the green/black wire to see it still blows the fuse? This will tell me if it is in the trunk or before the trunk right?
I’m using a Haynes manual and don’t particularly like their schematics.
Parts replaced recently last 4 months or so:
ICU
Turn signal stick/windshield wiper stick assy
Stereo
If the green/black is not plugged into the latch, or hatch is closed the fuse should not blow untill you ground the green/black, or if plugged into the latch, open the hatch, [which grounds the green/black]. 94
OK - so I looked around the trunk wiring a bit… don’t see anything obvious.
Note for these measurements the cargo bulg is removed (whole assembly removed).
I removed Fuse 14 then measured green/black to ground with headlights to park and key off. = 12V
Then removed Fuse 11 then measured green/black to ground with headlights to park and key off = 0V
Turn headlights switch off - no voltage (duh)
Jumper wires for cargo light with headlight switch off - tail lights come on - door chime goes on - 12 volts at green/black
Remove fuse 11 - same as previous
install fuse 11 remove fuse 14 - everything out and no voltage.
ok - so somewhere the wires from fuse 14 are shorted to fuse 11?? now… WHERE?? Behind the fuse panel most likely?
You can not have a short between two power leads, they may be “crossed”.
With fuse 14 pulled, [interior lights, dome, map, glove box and trunk/hatch cargo lights] pulled you should not read power, [12V+] on the green/black, if you do it can only be from a short between the green/black, [a ground trigger/supply] and a red/black, [park/tail lights].
This is confirmed because fuse 11, [park/tail light fuse] blows when you open the hatch, turning the green/black into a ground.
That short can be any place the green/black is close to any red/black lead, both leads run down the drivers side of the car, the green/black runs up to the cluster, [trunk/hatch open warning light]. 94