alot of good reading, i just went out & spent $60 bucks on detailing equipment, cleaners, clay bar, etc etc etc… and im sure it’s just the beginning of it…
and my car is about to go under the water knife today…
Good shit to know. I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to assist in running a local mobile detailing business for several years and learned a lot of valuable stuff related to detailing and washing. I’d hope that most car lovers know how to properly detail their vehicles, or have the desire to.
Once you know enough and you are good enough, you won’t trust anyone but yourself to wash your car… nonetheless detail it
alot of good reading, i just went out & spent $60 bucks on detailing equipment, cleaners, clay bar, etc etc etc… and im sure it’s just the beginning of it…
and my car is about to go under the water knife today…[/QUOTE]
just some advice, as you gain experience in detailing, you’ll learn to trust names like, mequires, 3m, dewalt, mothers, eagleone over generic brands like turtle wax, $50 orbital buffers, & sander/polisher combos as offered by central pneumatic
i didnt buy a $60 buffer, just meaning $60 worth of cleaning waxes, polish, detail brushes, scrubs, claybar & such…
but yes, im sure alot of products get tested & denied from doing detailing… some that work a little better than another, to one that works & just simply one that doesnt…
if you have any black molding on your car, hit it with armor all before you wax or polish, this keeps the wax from sticking to the bare plastic and leaving that white film all over it. besides, if you love your car, you’d armor all the mouldings anyway, right?
I actually use a synthetic coating on my sunroof weather stripping, seals, and plastic moldings. Applies like wax. I am not a big fan of armorall, I’ve had bad experiences with it ruining certain parts and finishes but to each his own.
i hear a lot of people who claim that…if you leave it on tires too long they actually turn the tires different shades of shit brown…
tegboi-
sorry i mistook that for including a buffer
before i buff/polish a vehicle to prevent plastic/rubber from scratches/discoloration i just use 3m painters tape…after that i use wizards synthetic plastic protection.
I like to use electric tape. I find that the edges of the electric tape are much more even, hence more conducive to keeping shit where it belongs. And shit needs to stay where it belongs. I’ve never heard that armorall does that to your tires, I never had the balls to try an armorall product on my rubbers…
really…electrical tape doesn’t leave any adhesive residue? i know 3m painters tape has a statement claiming it will not leave any adhesive residue if left on for up to 3 weeks…
Speaking of detailing and washing cars… I totally get up early morning to wash my car because I haven’t done so in almost a month… I get to work a little after noon and what… RAIN. I go to play ball in the afternoon after work and plan to wipe the car down after shooting hoops and what… RAIN. Sucks so bad. Weather in Hawaii is hella unpredictable. Sunny at one point, rainy the next:wtf:
I’ve never had that problem on paint or wax. Maybe on a rubber or more pliable material, but smooth surfaces are fine. The tape is never on for more than a few minutes to an hour at most depending on what I am doing. I used it on an old headlight housing in an experiment and the tape was on them for over 2 days while they cured, and when it came off the section it was sticking to was completely crap free, and the lines were flawless.
