hello everybody
just want to tell everybody what i found i think i found what is my real problem because i try the fast idle , the iacv and after that i try too clean my iacv whit a spray cleaner and when i spray on my intake gasket my car want to stalled, i think is that the problem because so air leak from my gasket i don’t think that the car suppose to stalled when u spray some stuff on the gasket?
what they you think guys???:search:
OK … UPDATE !!
I finally had some time today to work on the teg, I got some carb cleaner and sprayed into the TB, and rev the engine a little to get it to suck some into the IM too.
I then unbolted the 2bolts of the IAC valve and sprayed more into the 2 holes (inlet/outlet).
Unfortunately, this did not solve my problem of the idle that fluctuates 50-100RPM or so. :mad:
So I dont know what to do, I will get a new O2 sensor when I install my header next week, hopefully that will do the trick. Any more ideas??
My first Intega But…
I just reciently got a 1991 integra, and it is in fairly good condition but, there are a coulpe of problems.
#1 Like the others with the problem of the rpms bogging down then catching i have. Then happens most often when the car is getting warmed up, but in the past few days it has be extending it to normal driving conditions.
#2 When sitting at a stop w/ my foot on the brake (4 Speed Auto) my rpms go down below 800 or so, and the car starts to shake. When I put the car into neutral the rpms go up to arround 900-1k is this normal.
I am going to check the following…
(o2) sensor, Idle air control valvve, fast Idle valve, slow idle valve, and the gool ole fuel filter. I am not sure what a PCV, EGR valve is but i will do my best to find out.
Thanks for any help, and i will post my progress too.
Re: yes
Originally posted by crazyteg67
yes when i turn my steering or when i open the heater my rpm fluctuate a litle bit, and when i start my engine when is cold he start at 1700-1800rpm and goes back after, i would like 2 know how can i know when the iacv is not working??
Have a friend put their hand on the IACV when you engage the AC or the defroster. You should feel a good ‘click’. If not, one of two things is wrong:
I) you may have lost power to the IAC motor by way of a short, dead fuse or burnt motor
II) (most likely the case more often than not) –> you have carbon buildup on the inside of the assy. You need to pull the IACV off (takes about 1 min with a 12mm wrench as I recall – or was it 11??). Anyway, pull this off and disconnect the two hoses. Spray some carb cleaner or air intake cleaner (better stuff – less abrasive) into the intake screen. I suggest filling the whole thing with the cleaner and letting it sit for maybe 10min. Shake it vigourously a few times and then pour the dirty cleaner out. Repeat this till the cleaner comes out clear and clean.
now that you have cleaned it… look inside at the pintle spring (it will look like a plastic accordian type thing longitudinally mounted)… Make sure this is clean but be carefull not to damage it – this is where a very small paintbrush comes in handy. Anyway, once you are comfortable it’s all clean and ready to go, connect a 9V battery to the terminals at the connector and feel for a good ‘click’ while watching the pintle assy. If it moves noticably and clicks, you have solved your problem.
If anyone needs an IACV I have a near mint one from a JDM B series motor. The reason I didn’t use it was because it needs an extra hole to be bored to mount it. I didn’t want to mess with the head just yet. Either way, I ended up needing tofix my old one because of the fittment problems. It worked just fine.
Try to look at the simple stuff first and then go from there. Another major culprit for these idle issues is the CTS. Perhaps I will do a ‘Teg Tips’ submission for this to show you all what I am talking about. I could include some shots of the oscope reading also to show you what’s happening as the thermosistor operates and how this affects the output of the ECU.
Good luck and let us know how things are going. If anyone cares about my old idle woes, they’re are almost completely gone. My only last course of action to stop a little hood shake is to replace the front lower mount. I have a new one but have been too busy/lazy/etc. to get under there and slam it in.
HTH
Andrew.
note: sorry the punctuation, diction, and spelling was so horendous… it’s been a looooong one.
aka neex.
Thanks alot NEEX, that was vvery informative. I guess i should try taking out the IAC completely and do that 9V test.
Do you know how much those IAC’s run at the dealer?
No probs. I’m glad it helped.
About the MSRP for that part… I seem to recall something silly like $300 CDN. You are much better off fixing your old one and investing that money elsewhere.
I meant to take pics of the process when I did it but it was raining and I was getting pissed off. I don’t like getting my digital cam wet (she doesn’t like da rain).
If I end up redrilling for the JDM IACV, I will definitely document the process. Trust me when I tell you that it’s an easy task. You may want to blow out those vac lines while you’re in there also. I accidentally put some carb cleaner through them once and it pooled up at the bottom. If you have pools of liquid in your vac lines, it’s generally not a good thing.
Email me if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Andrew.
aka neex.
Neex:
What is the “CTS” in your post. Coolant Temperature Sensor?
Yes. Most definitely the CTS is the Coolant Temperature Sensor. This is far so often overlooked when diagnosing hard/failure to start or poor drivability situations. If you want more detailed info, either search for ‘neex’ and ‘cts’ or email me. I have slammed out many far too lengthy accounts of the relationship between the CTS, ECU and pulse width of the injectors.
Take care,
Andrew.
I get it. Just had not seen that Acronym before.