Distributor went and finally got another one but my ECU is giving off code 9 (no. 1 cylinder)now? Is it I need the timing done or is it a bad dist.? The dist is used (pr3 non odb sir1). Seems to run smooth but lacks some power(probably cuz the first cylinder isnt firing?hah) Any insight would be appreciated.
ok im gonna run it down to you out the factory manual:
check engine warning light has reported code 9
turn off ignition switch
remove hazard fuze in main fuse box for 10 sec to reset ecu start engine
code gone: YES check for poor connection or loose wires at the distributer connector and c216 (on right shock tower plug on distributer)
NO
stop engine
disconnect the 8p connector (round looking plug) from the TDC/CRANK/CYL sensor
measure resistance between f and g terminal (the 2 bottom prongs)
is there 350-700 ohms: NO replace distributer
YES
CHECK FOR CONTINUITY TO BODY GROUND ON F AND G TERMAINL INDIVIDUALLY
does continuity exist? Yes replace distributer
NO
reconnect connector
subtitute a know good ecu and recheck if symtom /indication gores away replace ecu.
im running a pr3 ecu with my b18a im getting a 14 atmosperic pressure but my car runs fine. if you got any question 9i tried to make it as understandable as possiable) e-mail me i’ll hook ya up. hth!
Archivethis (For Warning signs/Teg tips)
My car’s check engine light is coming on too!
This is probably not related, but Novtec1 how can we read the ECU codes? I am mechanically inclined, but not familiar with the Check Engine light etc…
Is there any practical way I can interpret what my car is telling me? I can’t drive my car because after it warms up, the light comes on, and I lose power and acceleration!
How can I “read the code?”
I don’t know what I did, but my stupidity caused me to put in octane booster into my empty tank when I ran out of gas! I don’t know if it burned something or what I messed up, but it sure started my problem!