hi guys.
i have afew question regarding my diy alignment. im triying to iron out my process to get as accurate as i can… i dont feel like paying $60 to get my toe adjusted.
i am doing the alignment on my 1990 acura integra.
i use:
2 jackstands
fishing line, its a replacement for string. works jus as good.
4 wood blocks
ruler
adjustable wrench
level
strip of ply-wood with two screws drilled through.
i begin by driving the car up on the 4 blocks of wood. one for each wheel.
i then set the strip of ply-wood on the steering wheel and set the level on top. then i tape them together and use this contraption to make sure the steering wheel remains straight.
then i set up the fishing like on the jack stands (i would like to have 4 jack stands, but im workin with what i got)
then i use the ruler and measure the same length away from the hub in the front and in the rear to make sure the string, or fishing line is straight and true.
this is the part where im not too sure, i have read on team integra,or club integra that the front and rear track width was different so im not sure if the line i use for reference is straight and true.
after i set up what i belive is a true line i then measure the front and rear of the tire in comparison to the line and i adjust the tie rod as necessary until the tirere is zeroed out. in other words, the gap between the tire and the string is equal at the front and rear of the tire.
my main question is… what is the front and rear track width on da9 integras. also. is my procedure correct. doing my alignment this way. will it work like i plan for it to? or do you guys see any flaws?
This method can work well if you have a level floor, and take your time.
Ensure the tire pressures are the same for all tires! And you have a level surface (VERY important)
First, you must determine the BODY’s true centerline. Place a line directly going down the middle of the car from front to back. Use holes in your body to determine where exactly the middle is and use mutliple reference points.
Keep the steering wheel level and measure the front and back of the wheels releative to your centerline. Adjust for toe so that each wheel is running parallel to your centerline (front and back distance of the tire to the centerline is equal). The distance of each wheel from the centerline may be different(track), this is not adjustable, and is why you need to have the wheels reference the body’s centerline and not relative to each other. Repeat for the back.
The diy method, does have flaws.
You can reliably adjust toe. With a littlebit of extra reference lines and a bit more work you can figure out front caster as well. But you cannot adjust for camber without more specialized equipment.
Also it is very hard to get super precise measurements because string/fishing line will always have some sort of stretch and will never be 100% taught. The accuracy also depends a large amount on the levelness of the floor, but floors will never be 100% level. Your measuring instrument (measuring tape) also affects the accuracy of the measurements. Despite all of these flaws, if you take multiple careful measurements and average out your measurements, you can achieve great results.
Thank you so much for the responce. I didnt us the centerline method. I used the method of measuring an equal distance from the front and rear hubs and using that as a reference line. How do you guys make the floor level. Use the tile squares? Im going to have to try that. Tat wa my only flaw. The floor was not level. Thanks for the reply