DIY - Replacing an axle (92 RS)

INFORMATION Articles / Teg Tips
1

Definitely not a k-series, but not quite off topic since there’s only a few minor differences between this and any other axle swap.

Tools Needed (All hand tools)

  • Jack
  • Jack Stand
  • Pry Bar/Long flat head screw driver
  • 24" breaker bar
  • 3/8" Ratchet
  • 17mm 3/8 drive socket
  • 19mm 3/8 drive socket or the tire iron with your spare tire
  • 32mm 1/2 drive sock (axle nut)
  • 5lb sledge
  • Metal Punch
  • Pliers
  • Cotter Pins
  • Axle
  • Possibly a 2x4

[LIST=1]

  • With the car on the ground, remove the center cap of your wheel (if you have one) and get access to the 32mm axle nut.

  • Using the punch and a hammer/mallet, tap the indented part of the nut out so that once loosened, it will spin freely.
  • Use the 32mm nut and breaker bar and loosen the nut.
  • Use the ratchet and 19mm socket (or tire iron) and loosen the wheel nuts.
  • Jack the car up. *(Please use a jack stand)
  • Finish removing the wheel nuts.
  • Remove the wheel.
  • Finish removing the axle nut.

  • Now, take a pair of pliers and remove the cotter pin from the nut below the hub assembly. Once out, take the nut off with a 17mm socket.
  • Repeat this step on the tie rod end to the left of the hub as well.
  • Using the mallet, give the tie rod a few good whacks to free it the same for the control arm on the hub assembly.
  • Taking the punch or the screw driver, tap the axle out of the hub with the mallet.
  • Lift the hub out of the lower arm and away from the axle.
  • Using the pry bar or screw driver, separate the axle from the transmission.
  • Then, slide the old axle out.
  • Take your new axle (should come with a new nut, if not, use your old one) and slide it into the transmission. The large housing should be flush against the transmission.

    If not, (like mine) I used a 2x4. Put it against the housing slightly on the boot and tapped it in with my sledge.

  • Reverse the above steps and install new cotter pins where needed (mine were rusted and needed to be repaired).

  • Properly torque the nuts down, check your Helms for those specs. [/LIST]

    Steve

    • 2

    Just wanted to add…These spindle nuts are notorious for being tough to crack. When I removed mine, I snapped my breaker bar, bought another one and then bent the steel bar i was using for leverage. So to avoid damange or injury, I went to Canadian Tire and had them loosen it with an impact gun for free!

    Nice writeup!

    3

    Thanks! I’ll be adding a few pics since I need to replace my cotter pins.

    Steve

    4

    Yea if u can add pics it will be easyer for me. If you want u can send them to my email verbal_760@yahoo.com thanks.

    5

    Nah, I can host them on K-Series.com. I just didn’t take pics when I did it.

    I’ll snap a few this weekend.

    Steve

    6

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ
    i prefer this method for removing the lower balljoints. works like a charm even with a craftsman 3/8" ratchet even though it asks for a 1/2" ratchet. hell you don’t even have to jack up the arm assembly, just insert the ratchet so its snug in there and then stomp on the caliper one time, walla!

    7

    I’ve never had a problem just whacking the arm itself with a mini-sledge, but the method in the vid definitely works. :slight_smile:

    Steve

    8

    Took a few pictures, need to add a few more.

    Steve

    9

    K,

    just a question on the tranny fluid. do you need to drain it first before pulling out axle assembly.

    Thanks,

    10

    [QUOTE=faceless_el;2145572]K,

    just a question on the tranny fluid. do you need to drain it first before pulling out axle assembly.

    Thanks,[/QUOTE]

    NOPE, i JUST REPLACED BOTH AXLES LAST WEEK, MY FIRST TIME TOO. AND THANKS TO THE LINK ABOVE I USED THAT 3/8-1/2 RATCHET YOUTUBE TIP, WORKS EXCELLENT, NO STRUGGLES.

    11

    Why does my service manual say the spindle nut is 22mm?