this is for for 92+ cable ys1 trannies note: shaft the same for ls and gsr
open it and count the final drive and counter shaft teeth (maybe you can do this without opening it but believe me from personal experience they are the same from the outside) if ratio 4.266 you have LS if ratio 4.400 you have gsr
whew finally got the cover off. oddly everything moves when i turn the input shaft, but of course when it was in the car no gear engaged. pp/clutch/bearing looked ok… gears look ok also except the reverse one looks kinda chewed up.
anyways, before i start checking clearances i want to understand how shifting works. if its not asking too much, would someone mind explaining how shifting works from the shift rod to the internals? heres a pic from autozone (86-89integra transaxle):
i ahve a 90- 91 ls tranny and i broke the diff inand the case. will the gears fit right into a 92-93 gsr case cause i can buy a cheap one and i wanted to know if they would fit or not
X,
I’m sorry, so were you using this trans and then suddenly it stopped working, or did you go to install it and there wern’t any gears?
I’m sure I can answer your question once you clarify this,
J.
Originally posted by .J. X,
I’m sorry, so were you using this trans and then suddenly it stopped working, or did you go to install it and there wern’t any gears?
I’m sure I can answer your question once you clarify this,
J.
hey np. i bought the car this way. it suffered suspension damage and all i was told was the tranny needed to be replaced. when we had it on stands and fired it up, no gear would engage.
now what is real fishy about the car is there were many signs that the motor was slapped together- missing bolts everywhere, spark wires connected out of order, countless bolts not even hand tight… the tranny was stuck on there good tho.
what im starting to think is maybe just the clutch cable needed tightening, and the guy who sold it to me was clueless (he said it was his uncles car so he didnt know much about it.) if thats the case, should i even worry about the reverse gear?
i guess ill try doing as many clearance checks as i can w/o disassembling the shafts, then try remounting the tranny. i just need to figure out how to select gears…
ok i did the clearance checks and everything seems to be within service limits, or nothing out of the ordinary considering i used the 92-93 instead of 90-91 specs. synchros look ok, nothing rounded.
finished the manual swap a few weeks ago and the tranny was worked perfectly! put in es bushings with the stock shifter. ran fine for about 2 weeks. i temporarily used cheap 10w30 oil.
installed a skunk2 shifter and the next week or so i started to get a grind when shifting from 2nd to 3rd at only above 6000rpm. i noticed my cable was pretty loose, so i tightened it up. i hope that wasnt the cause…
yesterday i picked up some gm syncromesh (friction modified) and i havent noticed much of a difference. maybe a tad smoother but the grind is still there.
well all i can do now is wait and see if the miracle formula works. if not, i guess its gonna be a new 3rd gearset with ls 5th…
update: gm synchromesh fm got rid of most of the grind. only under the most severe shift (which i shouldnt need to do anyways) will it show a sign of a potential grind.
Everyone here is always talking about buying the OEM 3rd gear set for $300. Why don’t you just buy a full rebuild kit for $450 instead? www.transtarindustries.com sells a set with all the syncros, bearings and seals you need. If people start using them, maybe their prices will go down. The rebuild kit for L3 (crx, other d-series) transmissions is $150 and so is the kit for earlier accords/preludes/integras.
I have a friend in TX who has rebuilt 5 maybe 6 L3 (CRX) and 1 92 prelude transmission using this company’s products. The bearings were quality bearings (I can ask him about the brand if you want) and there weren’t any syncro related issues on any of the rebuilt transmissions. They all felt like new after the fact.
I can’t say whether the quality of brass used in the syncro rings is the same/worse/better than OEM, but I think he’s put 30k or more on the first one he did (his own hybrid ZC L3) and has had no issues yet. But I’m not a metallurgy expert…
While I’ve got you, I found a place that has the 4th and 5th gear sets out of a 94+ GSR tranny for $85. I am (pending financial progress) rebuilding a GSR YS1 (which is silently awaiting me in my closet) and putting the 1-4 in my LS YS1 case (with LS 5th)
Do you think it would be worth it to use the later GSR 4th to make the 4-(LS)5th transition smoother, or do you think it would be a waste of $85? I think the (94+)GSR is 1.034 vs (GSR)YS1 of 1.107 (but this is just #s off the internet)
FYI, my car will (for the foreseeable future) be non-VTEC.
not only are the b17’s shorter, but they are properly matched, so i would stick with them. who cares about the transition from 4th to 5th when you have the better acceleration from 3rd and 4th in the 1/4th
I am going to be using my B18A1(YS1) 5th either way, especially with gas prices how they are, but you are probably right…not really worth it. Maybe if I ever get the 4.785 :dreaming happy little dreams: FD I’ll look into it some more…
If the GSR YS1 case I have didn’t have a big hole in it, I’d consider just selling my LS YS1 as a whole and buying a B18B 5th instead. You don’t know anyone with half a YS1 case they are selling for cheap, do you? I’m pretty sure that someone who didn’t know what they were doing opened this case (with a hammer) at one point and then jbwelded it back together, there is no internal damage to suggest this hole happened on the road. http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/robinvanessa@sbcglobal.net/detail?.dir=/gsr+tranny&.dnm=JBweld1.jpg
You know, if what .J. says above is correct about D-series (L3) syncros is correct, which I’ll bet it is, the CRX rebuild kit really is only about $150 from transtar. Could be a cheap solution for you.
can you be more specific, does this mean i cant swap the input shaft/differential either? i find it a lot easier to find deals on 92+ clutches than 90-91. if any of this works, this means i can snag the shaft from the 94+ hydro correct (everything but the actual hydro housing and whatever hydro specific internals).
