i sanded all of the grounding locations clean and also sanded the bat. ports. & same result. ill take photos later today & put them up tonight.
this all started when i tried starting my car after i finished painting my valve cover. it was off for about 30 hours. the only way i have gotten it to start was push starting. the bat. stayed on & connected for that 30 hours. i also replaced my hazard switch during that time.
here is the original thread - http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171250
If the starter motor and solenoid, [attatched to starter motor] was checked and found to be OK, then obviously you have another problem.
When it is tested, they do pretty much what you do when you do the bypass test, 12V+ is connected to the “stud” in the starter motor solenoid, ground is connected to the starter motor case, you can do that with a set of jumper cables, once connected all you have to do is use a jumper wire to jump from the “stud”, that has the 12V+ connected to it, to the smaller plug in terminal, [starter trigger terminal] if motor spins, both motor and solenoid are good.
94
Reinstall the starter motor and try the bypass test again, make sure you are getting a good contact with the jumper lead both at the batt.(+) and the starter trigger terminal.
Again, make sure car is NOT IN GEAR.
k well i did the bypass test (wire from bat. + to starter trigget terminal) & no start. seat belts went off, beeping noises, locks, no crank.
k well i did the bypass test (wire from bat. + to starter trigget terminal) & no start. seat belts went off, beeping noises, locks, no crank
???
What do you mean seat belts went off, beeping noise lock???
If you are doing the bypass test properly nothing should happen other then the starter motor will engage.
Leave ign. switch off, make sure car is not in gear, make sure the batt, terminals are connected to the batt. properly, [clean and tight], make sure the batt. is charged, [do the head lights work, does the horn work?] and make sure the cable from the batt. to the starter motor/solenoid is connected properly, [clean and tight] make sure nut is tight on stud, and when you make the jump from the batt. pos.(+) to the trigger terminal on the starter motor/solenoid insure you are making a good contact, if nothing happens, while still making the jump give the top of the starter motor a good sharp rap with a hammer or something.:idea:94
when i connect the stereo wire from bat. + to the trigger terminal my seatbelts move, the power locks try to work (currently broken) & it beeps like im turning the key to accessories/power position
Why are you connecting the “stereo wire” to the trigger terminal?:bang:94
lol man my car is still at the acura specicalist. they are going insane they cant figure out the problem. i blame the clutch pedal switch but they think otherwise.
lol its the only wire i have. i took it off of my audio system because i dont have any spare wire sitting around. is it to small? what kind of wire should i use?
are the seat belts, locks & beeping noises supposed to go off?
man that sucks redhead i really hope i dont have to take my car there… any idea what that is going to cost u? & do u have a swap or are u pretty stock? im afraid whoever i take it to isnt going to know wth is going on under there
here are some photos:
bat. -
bat. +
starter ground
valve cover ground
now i found this when taking photos. this group of wires lead to i beleive is my vtec solenoid. this red wire ends here - i couldnt find it after where it ends. it doesnt continue on… it just ends right here in the photo. it is coming from what looks like the ecu/passengers feet area.
red wire
leads to?
lol its the only wire i have. i took it off of my audio system because i dont have any spare wire sitting around. is it to small? what kind of wire should i use?
OIC. just about any wire can be used as a jump lead, 12ga or bigger is recommended, although smaller gauge will work.
are the seat belts, locks & beeping noises supposed to go off?
Nothing else should “go off”, with ign. switch off, only the starter should work.
here are some photos:bat. -
Pos.(+) batt. clamp is upside down.
Neg.(-) batt. clamp is not on batt. terminal properly.
Both need to be all the way down on the posts.
starter ground
Starter motor grounds through it’s case, that is the starter motor pos.(+), [from batt. pos.(+) terminal] it is one of the 2 leads coming off the bat.(+) terminal.:giggle:94
PS, does the batt. have a charge?
not sure what i would do w/o your advice fcm. your great & i really appreciate it. yes the bat. has a charge it was tested the other night along w/ the starters.
so when i connect the wire from bat. + to trigger terminal my car accessories are not supposed to start working (seat belts move, interior beeping, doors locking)? because that is all that happens.
No, nothing else should come on, all you are doing when you do the bypass jump is supplying power to the starter solenoid the actual power to turn the starter motor comes from the heavy gauge lead connected to the starter motor/solenoid, [the one you called the starter ground (pix 3)].
Let me ask you this… when you are doing the bypass jump where exactly are you touching the jumper wire to?
The starter wire, [solenoid trigger lead] is a black/white lead, it is plugged into the solenoids trigger terminal, that is where, [trigger terminal] where you need to touch the jumper lead, and if starter motor does not turn the motor over give the solenoid a good sharp rap with a hammer.
If the starter motor tested OK out of the car it should work when you do the bypass jump.
Also, what is the blue wire in pix 3?:squint:94
the blue wire i am pretty sure has something to do with my vtec wiring. when i bought the car it was wired up through the passenger side fender & when i had the car tuned they offered to relocate it. it looks like that wire from before
in this photo - when i do my bypass test i touch the wire to the metal tab inside of the black thing that is circled.
edit: i put the bat.+ on correctly & made sure they were as far down as possible & tight. i tried the bypass test & same result. should i replace my grounds & the bat.+ to starter wire? …ill go whack the solenoid with a hammer in a minute.
Another thing that can happen with Honda starter/solenoids is the stud that the batt. lead connects to can turn a little when you tighten the nut, it does not have to turn much, 1-3 degrees for the contacts to misalign.
Try “undoing” the nut a little, hold and turn the ring terminal at the same time, and see if the stud moves.
That drove me nuts for 2 hrs on my 94LS, I would take the starter motor out and bench test it and it would work, put it back in and it wouldn’t, take it out again and bench test it only to have it work, reinstall it, and again, not work, on the 3rd re and re it worked but intermittently, when checking to make sure the nut was tight I noticed the stud move, and it did not work again, I made up a jumper I could plug into the trigger terminal and clamp to the batt. pos.(+) and backed off on the nut, [along with the ring terminal] just a tiny bit, haven’t had a problem with it in 4 years.
Found the same problem with a friends G2, the Acura dealer told him it was the starter motor and he ordered a now one, [not cheap:shock:] My problem happened a few month before, so I told him to reinstall the motor and we tried the same thing, he is also still driving without any starting problems.:idea:94
k well i tried a few more things
set-up the bypass wire to stay connected & backed the stud off for about 10 minutes - no change
w/ bypass wire still set-up to stay connected i hit the solenoid with a hammer. the only thing that happened was the interior of my car would beep. like fasten seatbelt warning or something of the sort
& i also took some photos of all this
to
this is how my wire-set up looked(a: starter wire? b: the wire is just stuffed in there… c: starter motor +). while wires were hooked up i went in the car & snapped a pic
the X’s stayed lit up (the e-brake light, dash clock (pretty dim) & the ac vent options). the push lights on the roof worked fine also.
i checked out the fuse box under the hood
all the ones in the green circles checked out fine and the ones circled in blue i couldnt figure how to take off w/o maybe using a screw driver which i didnt try. visually they looked fine
this is the ground on the valve cover. clean enough, right?
when i have everything hooked up like it would be for everyday driving and try to start the car & it doesnt start. i do not get a click near the HU/passenger feet side until i let off the clutch. not sure if thats normal. this problem really blowssssss :sad:
What has me confused is why things are “turning on” in the car when you do the bypass jump, it should NOT happen.
OK, try, [check] this, remove batt. and batt. tray, “redo” the chassis ground, [remove, clean and remount] do the same with the chassis to motor ground.
I believe the batt. to chassis and chassis to motor ground are all one cable, that runs from the batt. to the motor ground, for chassis ground the insulation has been removed off the cable and a clap has been wrapped around the cable and bolted to the chassis, [for chassis ground] pay close attention to the batt., chassis and motor clamps/terminals, make sure there is no corrosion between the clamps/terminals and the cable and that they are mounted solidly to clean surfaces.
They should look like your valve cover ground, although I would solder that lead to the terminal.
BTW do you have, or can you borrow a multimeter?
If not got to Radio Shack and buy one, you can get one for $20, it will pay for itself in not time, it has 101 uses for car electrical troubleshooting.94
okay im pretty sure i did that “redo” a few days ago. underneith my bat tray is where the bat ground & i have a ground coming off the tranny (what your referring to as motor ground, i think). i sanded the frame down on that point, both rings on the end of the grounds and cleaned up my bat. terminals. i noticed some corrosion where the grounds meet below the bat. tray but sanded it all off.
& what lead would u solder to a terminal? i will go to radio shack and buy this tool and also should i buy a soldering tool? i will not have anytime to work on this today so i will have an update tomorrow. ive got a few days off after today
Solder the terminal to the ground wire that you made for the valve cover ground, yellow ring terminal on stud with loose nut, [last set of pix].
If you have redone the grounds and they are good, then I am not sure what the problem is, other then the starter and/or the solenoid is bad.
Once you get the multimeter some other tests can be done.:dunno: 94
got the multimeter. it didnt come with any instructions so i dont really know how to use it to its full potential. i did manage to test a AA bat. though
where do i begin testing?:gunleft:
Start by testing voltage, set meter to 20V on the DCV scale.
Place black probe on batt. neg.(-) terminal and red probe on batt. pos.(+) terminal, read voltage.
Next move red probe to pos.(+) stud on starter motor, read voltage.
Next have someone try and start the car, [with the key] and you place the red probe on the starter wire, the one that plugs into the solenoid, read voltage.
Now do a continuity check, your meter does not have a continuity setting so set it to diode test, [between DCA and 200 on the OHM scale], touch probes together, remember the reading, now place black probe on batt. neg.(-) post and the red probe on the starter motor case, what is the reading? it should be very close to the one you get when you touch the probes together.
Let me know.
94
should the starter wire be plugged in when i try to test it with the person starting the car?
& also on your third step is the black probe still connected to the bat. - terminal?
EDIT: tested all with black probe on bat. -
Battery: 12.62 & 12.50 after trying to start car
Bat. + to Starter stud: 12.61 & 12.51 after trying to start car
2 person car start test: 10.00 on first try 10.05 on 2nd try
Continuity check: 0.00 probes & 0.05 starter motor case