Do I need to get a new flywheel with a new clutch kit? What about the clutch cable?

Car has 98K on it. Original clutch is about to go. Will I need a new flywheel when I change the clutch? Also, the clutch cable is it worth changing or do they really never break? The clutch I’m looking at is an Exedy organic disk:

Thanks for the insight :slight_smile:

not necessarily, it would be nice to get a lightweight, but you can get away w/ resurfacing the oem flywheel

I wouldn’t worry about the clutch cable unless you’re upgrading the clutch kit to like a stage 3 or higher. Or your pedal feels really notchy like theres some corrosion inside the cable housing. You should be ok with it.

Awesome I’m sure I’m fine then :slight_smile: . Can someone reccomend me a flywheel? I dont know if on these cars they will chatter if there really light… but that is something I DO NOT want! I saw exedy offers one, I think it was 9.5lbs, is that to light and will it be noisy or anything?

Thanks alot guys.

fidanza flywheel…

Got a link to where I could get one? :slight_smile:

i wouldnt go with a aluminum flywheel with a pressed on steel ring gear. you could have the same problem i had. ring gear ends up seperating from the flywheel. causing your car to not start. also having to replace it very soon after…now m not saying that this WILL HAPPEN to you. but there is a good a chance it could. aluminum and steel have different heating and cooling rates. so if the flywheel its self is aluminum and the ring gear is steel. the flywheel will heat up and expand faster then the ring gear. but once the ring gear is heated up and you turn the car off the flywheel will cool down and shrink faster then the ring gear.

id go with a act 12lb flywheel… the flywheels are one peice and there all steel… im just saying what i did above cuz i just went through this. 3 months of barely driving my car trying to figure out the problem. then having to turn around and spend 650 on a new flywheel and laber costs to drop the transmission again…