I have the teg tip from here and the section from helms printed out to assist me tomorrow. i have a set of feeler gauges too that will work nicely. is there any other special things i need? just screwdrivers and rachet sets? or is there another special tool i’m missing? thanks guys
I suggest a 10mm lock nut wrench. It’s hard to hold the adjusting screw and tighten the nut after you set it where you want it without one. It can be done but I find it a pain.
Some tips
Make sure you don’t mix up the metric and English specs for the valve clearances. And when using the feeler gauges during the adjustment process, the feeler gauge should drag a little when the clearance is right. Taking out all the plugs helps when rotating the crankshaft.
tyvm guys 
i’ll let ya know how it works out
I can’t recall if its in this forums tips or not but, it was advised that after setting your gap on each adjuster to “try” to put the next larger feeler in. Of course it should “not” fit. I did this routine on my 92 LS and it is more responsive and it feels good knowing that I got the gaps all even.:auto:
only other thing i’ve been thinking about are issues around the gasket. from my understanding as long as its in good shape then i can re-use it without any other work right? or do i need some form a gasket stuff no matter what?
I agree with re-using the vc gasket if it is relatively recent. Most vc matl are made just for this purpose, up to a point. If the cover has been routinely baked (used) for more than a year I’d put another on. Especially if you plan on opening it back up to fine tune something.:auto: :squint:
what I have come to learn is to tighten it too much and then just loosen it enough to let it drag. The “Drag” is a little complicated for the first time until you do a cylinder or 2. That is why I do it this way now. I don’t mean tighten the shit out of it, just enough to grab the feeler then loosen it a little for the drag. hope this helps