My dome light is not working in my 91 rs, i’ve checked the bulb and it’s fine i’ve checked the wiring and there is power running right to the light…the only thing I can think of is whether the fuse for the door switch has blown, but I don’t know which fuse that is or where it’s located…I’d rather not pull out each one and check it individually…
It would be much appreciated if someone could let me know which fuse controls the door switch/dome light…
Thanks Again
Robert
There is no fuse controlling the door pins, all they do is supply the ground for the dome light, the pass. door pin, [and rear door pins on 4 door] supply ground directly to the dome light, [and door ajar warning light] the drivers door pin switch supplies the ICU with a ground and the ICU supplies the ground to the dome light, door ajar warning light and the warning chimes.
Does the dome light turn on when you use the switch on the light itself?
Does it turn on if you open a pass door?
Are you sure the switch is set to “door”?:hmm:94
I’ve checked the door pins and the connections are fine…the only thing I noticed is that they are a little oxidized/rusted, could that be causing the problem?
Is the screw that holds the dome light up supplying the ground? Because the screw comes in contact with one of the circuit lines or connectors.
I also noticed that an attempt was made before I purchased the car to install some form of a security system, there is a reciever stuck to the top left corner of my windsheild with a small antenna sticking out, as well as a blue led light mounted in the dash to the left of the steering wheel next to the light dimmer dial/switch…I have yet to see this light ever come on or flash…and i’m thinking the security system would also be connected to the door pins/switches
How do you ground the domelight/door pins?
Your thoughts?
Another observation…
The wiring harness that connects to the backside of the domelight consists of 3 slots which corresponds to 3 prongs on the dome light assembly itself…however the harness only has wires running to the 2 outer slots and not the middle one…
The middle prong on the dome light assembly looks like it connects to the circuit and needs some form of power…
The harness is still original and doesn’t look like it has been altered at all…
it’s just a little strange…
Ok I checked fuse # 14 in the under dash fuse panel… the fuse was missing
It requires a 15amp, I put in a 20amp which shouldn’t make a difference
The dome light still doesn’t work
Any other ideas?
Yes rusted/oxidized pin switches could definitely be the problem, to test unplug the the lead from the pin switch and ground the lead to the cars chassis. if dome light works the pin switch is bad, replace it.
Yes, a screw holding the dome light up supplies the dome light switch with a ground, the switch in turn supplies the bulb with a ground, [when turned on]
An alarm would be connected to the pin switch, [ground lead running to dome light (green/red)], it should have no effect on the dome light, unless there is a problem at the connection, alarm will not work unless you have a remote for it, find the alarm brain and get a make and model number.
The door pins are grounded by the screw that holds them in the “B” pillar, when they are popped out, [door open, switch “closed”] they supply a ground to the dome light bulb, or the switch at the dome light supplies the ground, or opens the the circuit from the door pins when switched “off”.
There will be only two leads running to the dome light, white/blue 12V+ constant from fuse 14 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box and green/red, ground from pin switches and ICU, the middle terminal is not used.
NEVER replace a fuse with a bigger one.:whisper:
Do you have a multimeter or test light?
If not get one, you can get a multimeter from Radio Shack for about $20 that will do the job, [and 101 others]… http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=&fbn=Price%2F%2410.00+-+%2449.99&fbc=1&fr=StorePrice%2FRSK%2F00001000%2F00004999&kw=multimeters&parentPage=search :idea: 94
Why would using a larger fuse be a bad thing… I thought it was only bad to go smaller thus creating a short.
And how would you go about grounding the doorpins directly to the chassis…
Run a conventional ground wire from the wire harness to say the doorpanel? or crossmember?
Thanks again your advice is much appreciated
Robert
The size of a fuse has nothing to do with a short, although if you have a short and the fuse is too big for the wiring, [fuse can carry more current then the wire] the wiring will “blow” instead of the fuse.
A smaller fuse will not be able to carry the current the load needs so it would blow, there would be no short, just a blown fuse.
You don’t ground the door pin to the chassis, it is already grounded to the chassis, [body] by the screw that holds it in place, to test to see if the pin switch is the problem you take the pin switch out of the circuit, [unplug the wire going to it] and ground the wire, [connector] directly to the chassis, [body] by touching it to bare metal around the hole the pin switch is mounted in.:whisper: 94