My dome light stopped coming on when I open the driver door. I’m hoping it’s not that black switch that your door hits when it shuts… because i’m not sure on how I would go about fixing that. The dome light itself works when you flip the switch to on all the time, it shuts off when you tell it to shut off… but when it’s in the middle position (I think… that’s from memory) the light does not come on when the door opens.
Is there a separate fuse for when the door opens or something? Or is that little black switch malfunctioning? I’m assuming the fuse for the dome light is fine, because, like I said, when you flip it on, the light comes on.
Oh, and one last thing… I’m also assuming that when the passenger door opens the dome light is not supposed to come on. It never has before.
Dome light is supposed to come on with either door.
Why would you not want it to be the switch. that is by far the easiest thing to fix.
Remove the switches (1 bolt each) and clean the little area where the metal contact on the black plastic comes in contact with the chrome frame. It will probably be covered in rust.
If cleaning the switches does not work, then the only other common thing I can think of is that someone hacked up the wiring trying to install an alarm.
There is only one fuse for the dome lights. The signal coming from the door switches is a ground. If the light comes on with the switch on the actual light, then the fuse is good.
Yeah, I was thinking the fuse was fine, but I just wanted to cover all the angles.
I wasn’t sure how to do the door switch, just because every time I’ve looked at it, it was at night, so I couldn’t get a good look at what I needed to. Usually during the day I completely forget that it doesn’t come on.
Thanks for the info. I haven’t gotten off my ass yet today to go to the garage and look at it. I’ll let you know if everything’s in working order after words.
Okay, I tried cleaning the rust off the best I could with what I have… which really isn’t anything good. But, I was able to get some of the rust off, and neither side still works. Here’s pictures of what it looked like after words. I still need to get more rust off.
The black plug looks like it has a little bit of rust in it as well. The part where it says “Amp 16” Is there a fuse in there? I didn’t have time to open it up and check. Also, anything I should look for to help get the rust off?
The black plug does NOT have any fuse in it. it is just a plug.
as far as gettiing the rust off, you can use Sandpaper, a wire brush, a nail file, or even a pocket knife or thin flat screwdriver. the goal is to scrape off the rust and get it down to bare metal.
You can also test it using a paperclip. Stick one end of the paperclip into the plug and touch the other end on any bare metal surface (like the threads where the bolt goes. The light should come on when the clip touches ground. if it does not, then you have other problems besides the switch.
Sorry it’s been a while since i’ve done anything with this, but work’s been crazy lately. Anyway, I finally got the chance to scrape of the rust with some sand paper. I think I bought 100 grit. I got a lot of the rust off of both sides… they look nice and shiny. The dome light however still does not come on when the doors open. I don’t have a paper clip handy at the moment. I’ll steal one from work tomorrow. But if I stick the paper clip in, and ground it, and THAT doesn’t work, what should be my next step? I’m assuming the black plug needs replaced? Where would I get one if that is it?
If grounding the green/red lead, [paper clip thing] does not turn on the dome light pull the dome light and check the switch.
It is a pretty simple switch, 12V+, [white/blue] is direct to the bulb, [unswitched] the green/red ground lead goes to switch input as does the chassis ground, [dome light mounting screw] the switch connects either the chassis ground to the bulb, [will not work when dome light is not mounted] or the green/red lead to the bulb so door switches can supply the ground, the switch also has an open position, [OFF] where neither the chassis ground or the green/red lead are connected to the bulb.
I sounds like the switch is not connecting the green/red to the bulb, you can test this using the paper clip, with doors open, use the paper clip to “jump” from the green/red to the bulb, if bulb lights up, repair the switch or replace the dome light. 94
My passenger side light came on yesterday! So, removing the rust actually did help. I guess I just didn’t notice it was coming on. Sweet shit. That’s the first time the passenger side has worked since I got the car.
Have you tried grounding the drivers door pin switch lead directly to ground, if that does not turn on the dome light the problem may be in the ICU.
Do the warning chimes work, [key still in ign, lights still on seat belts]?
Do the intermittent wipers work?
Does read window defog work?
Do front side markers work properly?
Problems with any of the above is an indication of a problem with the ICU, the drivers door trigger sends it’s ground signal to the ICU and the ICU sends a ground to the dome light circuit. 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2041532]Have you tried grounding the drivers door pin switch lead directly to ground, if that does not turn on the dome light the problem may be in the ICU.
Do the warning chimes work, [key still in ign, lights still on seat belts]?
Do the intermittent wipers work?
Does read window defog work?
Do front side markers work properly?
Problems with any of the above is an indication of a problem with the ICU, the drivers door trigger sends it’s ground signal to the ICU and the ICU sends a ground to the dome light circuit. 94[/QUOTE]
Yes the warning chimes work.
Yes the wipers work.
Yes the rear defog works.
I don’t know what a front side marker is, but I’m assuming that’s the front side turn signals? Either way, turn signals work.
If when you open the drivers door with engine off but key still in the ign. switch and the warning chime, [key still in ign.] goes off, or if the park/head lights are still on and you open the door and the warning chime goes off, your drivers door pin switch is working.
If so, and the dome light is still not turning on, with drivers door, the problem is the ICU, or a connection problem between the ICU and the dome light grounding circuit.
The front side markers are the outside lights next to head lights they work as signal/hazard lights and park lights, they should blink ON when using signal or hazard lights, turn on when using park/head lights and blink OFF when using signal/hazard lights if the park/head lights are on.
Alrighty then. Update again: I went to town on the drivers side again with sand paper. Good news is everything works again. However, it seems like the black part is not connecting properly to the metal. Because you have to tinker with it in order to get it to work. I’m not sure how to fix that, but I think i’m gonna look around and see if I can just buy a new one. Shouldn’t be more than five bucks I wouldn’t think.
It’s my lucky number, year of my Integra, my autocross racing number, year I moved out of the lower main land, [Vancouver] and how I end all my posts here and at Honda-tech.com, [tag] and last but not least, it dives somebody, [like you] to the point you have to know. :bowthank: 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2041532]Have you tried grounding the drivers door pin switch lead directly to ground, if that does not turn on the dome light the problem may be in the ICU.
Do the warning chimes work, [key still in ign, lights still on seat belts]?
Do the intermittent wipers work?
Does read window defog work?
Do front side markers work properly?
Problems with any of the above is an indication of a problem with the ICU, the drivers door trigger sends it’s ground signal to the ICU and the ICU sends a ground to the dome light circuit. 94[/QUOTE]
I have all these problems… what is the ICU and where can i find it on my car???
my dome light doesn’t work at all even with a new bulb. Does anyone know where to find the fuse? I looked under the dash but can’t see what it would be under. Thanks
