If it’s been sitting there for that long then after the swap I’d highly recommend saving the last 1/4 quart of oil to drizzle all over the valvetrain before installing the valve cover, otherwise you risk a VERY dry startup. Can’t say I’ve ever heard of anyone ruining a motor in that few seconds between first turning the key and the oil being pumped, but metal-on-metal contact with no lubrication barrier isn’t good.
Oh no my motor is completely in pieces. I plan on doing a full rebuild since when I got it from JDMTigerjapanese.com it had a dime sized hole in the oil pan. Can’t complain I only payed $320 bucks for it (longer I.M. style) and when I tore it down it was really clean and no damage to be seen. I was really just wondering why I couldnt use the fuel rail and injectors since I decided to save the B20vtec for a hatch build and just rebuild my b18 trying to use some of the b20 for replacement… Maybe swap out the PR4 head for the P75 on my b20… now that I think about it that was way more than 3 years ago… maybe 5…
I got my b20b from them and long story short, never again. The motor was fine except for the fact it was the wrong motor and they refused an exchange, or refund, or anything. After 2ish years of telling my story on various forums they e-mailed me and refunded the paypal payment. xD
That sucks man. I will never again buy a “JDM” motor when there are just so many lying around here nowadays. I just didn’t want to deal with it so I tore it down. Glad everything worked out, even if it took 2 years!
Back from the dead! I didn’t want to start another thread and considering there is so much good info in this thread I thought it would be good to add to it.
Im doing a b20 swap in my 90 integra and wanted to have it all straight beforehand. Ill be using a high compression b20, blox or sk2 manifold, converting to obd1 and keeping ps and ac.
Sounds like the only modifications is the ect, which if you have the correcnt male plug you just need to extend some wire and splice on and plug into b20 thermo housing. Possibly extend MAP sensor depending on location on car/engine. And you can leave the knock sensor alone since a non-vtec ecu wont be looking for it.
Use all LS components, convert to obd1 (ecu, jumper, and 4-wire o2 sensor) Bolt up motor, drive, enjoy torques :excite:
And you should be good? This is just a mental prep for me and should prevent other questions since most of this has been covered.
[QUOTE=Boostpyro90;2270804]Back from the dead! I didn’t want to start another thread and considering there is so much good info in this thread I thought it would be good to add to it.
Im doing a b20 swap in my 90 integra and wanted to have it all straight beforehand. Ill be using a high compression b20, blox or sk2 manifold, converting to obd1 and keeping ps and ac.
Sounds like the only modifications is the ect, which if you have the correcnt male plug you just need to extend some wire and splice on and plug into b20 thermo housing. Possibly extend MAP sensor depending on location on car/engine. And you can leave the knock sensor alone since a non-vtec ecu wont be looking for it.
Use all LS components, convert to obd1 (ecu, jumper, and 4-wire o2 sensor) Bolt up motor, drive, enjoy torques :excite:
And you should be good? This is just a mental prep for me and should prevent other questions since most of this has been covered.[/QUOTE]
I made a list of what you’ll need/can use from your b18a1. Everything else, especially things specific to the b20, you’ll need to get from autozone. Just get the part that you would get for whatever year CRV that motor would have been in. As long as the head and block were a mated pair from Honda then the date stamp on the head will apply. I don’t quite remember how to read that date stamp so you’ll need to perform some google-fu and figure that out on your own.
Other than that the swap is pretty straight forward. The hardest parts are just making sure you remember to order the new stuff that’s needed and make sure everything is hooked up properly.
ETA: I might be limited on some questions I can answer mainly because that Integra was the last teggy I owned and I sold it almost two years ago. Since then I’ve been driving my '90 DX hatch w/ MPFI + Si conversion. No DOHC anymore…for now.
Can’t believe I never included before and after pics of my swap. Anyway, here ya go…
Ah yes, I almost forgot about the PCV, since the aftermarket manifold will use a PCV as well as the valve cover. Guess ill have to find some sort of plug for one of them.
I know its about the easiest swap you can do, but Im big on details and being prepared. I just want some more powaaaa (as said by Jeremy Clarkson)
The manifold PCV hole is just that, a hole. The breather box hose has a flange on it so it locks in to that hole and then the PCV is installed from the top. No breather box hose = just a hole cut in the metal between the intake runners.
I don’t remember if the intake manifold on my motor had that hole cut in it. Since it’s practically a 3rd gen LS top-end I’d imagine it does.
Yeah Ill have to figure out a way to plug one of them since I think all aftermarket manifolds have a hole in them as well. Probably be better to try and plug the one on the manifold anyway.
The PCV hole in the manifold is nothing more than a bracket to hold the breather box hose and PCV assembly in place. The PCV actually plugs in to the flange of that hose and without that hose the PCV would probably fall through that manifold hole and on to the ground. Since those aren’t present on a b20b that hole is just a circle cut in to a plate of metal and if you look down through it you’ll see the ground, or your driver axle, or whatever. No need to plug it.