For a few years now I’ve been looking for an easy way to separate the ball joints on our cars without having to buy an expensive tool. It seemed that every time I had to separate the ball joints I was either tearing the ball joint boots with the pickle fork and hammer method, or whacking (and destroying) the threads on the ball joint with the hammer when attempting to use the sledge hammer on the lower control arm method. So after countless ball joint boots and 1 or 2 ball joints I have finally found the answer…
Using this tool:
Craftsman Battery Terminal Puller
Sears Item #00947672000
$7.49
Place the arms of the tool on the lower control arm where the indentation is just above the ball joint threads. If anyone has attempted the sledge hammer/lower control arm method of seperation the indentations may not work because the the flares may be bashed off or flatend. If this is the case you can place the tool arms on top of the lower control arm, between the lower control arm and ball joint boot. Once you get the tool in place start cranking on the handle so that the shaft goes up. After a few turns the ball joint will separate from the lower control arm!!! No broken boots or anything!!!
Damn Dave, you must REALLY like that new tool to go through the trouble of drawing up that diagram…
Looks pretty effective to me though. I usually use the hammer technique, but on occasion I bust out with a bearing puller.
Good find though, cost effective and practical.
Originally posted by GSpeedR Look for the pics on page 2 for a good reference. I could not hammer nor pry the damn thing loose, but this method worked beautifully.
I HATE doing it that way. Sure it works, but sometimes it is at the expense of your legs…
I have a balljoint seperator, but you really don’t need one. All you need is a hammer and good aim. Loosen the balljoint castleated nut. Don’t remove it all the way. The control arm will come down with force and could damage your ball joint threads. It’s happened to me before. Live and learn. Anyway, strike the control arm wiht the hammer where the ball joint goes through it. A couple of good strikes and the ball joint will come right out. This is not the preferred method, but it works well. Best of luck.
you can get one of those cool pullers from auto zone for free as long as you leave a deposit. You can hold onto it as long as you like, but you only get the deposit back when you return it.
Here’s a link to how I did mine that I posted a while ago:
Autozone, does have a tool, I believe it is called a pitman arm/rod puller looks a bit like the battery terminal tool but the arms are fixed, probably malkes it a bit stronger.
Originally posted by B R
[B]I HATE doing it that way. Sure it works, but sometimes it is at the expense of your legs…
Later,
BR [/B]
At the expense of your legs? You lift the rotor with a jack, place a bar between the LCA and ball joint, and lower it. The force of the springs separates the two. :uhoh:
At the expense of your legs? You lift the rotor with a jack, place a bar between the LCA and ball joint, and lower it. The force of the springs separates the two. :uhoh: [/B]
I havent tried it that way yet. I have done it the way that you put a ratchet in between there and stomp on the rotor to bust it loose. I cant say that I liked that very much…
I like your way better.
I still prefer the hammer method. It works every time…
Hammer: $10
New brake disc because you missed the ball joint: $100
New front bumper lip because you hit on the backswing: $250
New side skirt because you you hit on the backswing: $250
New ball joint because you neglected to but the nut back on before you hit it: $250
New castle nut that you beat the hell out of from hammering on it: $5 from Acura
Time saved, screaming, swearing and crying avoided by using the puller: Priceless
Actually, the puller can be bad too. It can mushroom out the bottom of the ball joint basically crushing the hole where the cotter pin goes through. And if you forget to put the castlated nut back on even with the puller, you can screw up the ball joint. It all depends on how recently your ball joint was seperated (if ever). This is where the hammer is better. And you shouldn’t be hammering anywhere towards the rotor. You don’t have to hit it that hard. The vibration is what shakes it loose. You’re not hitting up on the ball joint. Your rapping the hammer on the control arm where the “puller” holds onto.
Originally posted by G2guru strike the control arm wiht the hammer where the ball joint goes through it. A couple of good strikes and the ball joint will come right out.
The preferred method of Honda/Acura technicians worldwide!
Originally posted by LeftCorner The preferred method of Honda/Acura technicians worldwide!
Yep, I have worked with lots of honda techs and they all do it the same way… It was a honda mechanic of 20+ years that taught me how to do it.
Oh, and I almost lost a ball joint because of the puller way. Dan can vouch for that since we crushed the top of it at his house. I think we ended up using a dremel with a drill bit to open the cotter pin hole back up.
Originally posted by Haberdasher
[B]'Cause we all know that Honda techs are the greatest mechanics in all the world…
Yet another reason not to take your car to the dealer…
It’s also the preffered method of Honda techs to damn the torque specs and use a impact wrench on everything including your spark plugs…
The Honda techs are doing it wrong, if it was a Honda sactioned method it would be in the manual…no?
I wouldn’t trust a Honda tech with a tonca truck…
:vomit: Honda techs[/B]
Bah, a single opinion from a mere mortal. You obviously have never been to a Honda training session. BTW, anyone using an impact on a spark plug obviously has something wrong with them - you sure it wasn’t an air ratchet??
