The head is already going to be off so I think it’ll make it much easier to get to the rear tranny mount? But do any of you have any good tips, advice, or suggestions on dropping the tranny from there? Step-by-step would be nice. TIA for your replies.
Leo, here’s the steps I would take. Pretty simple really.
Top side:
- Disconnect Battery
- Remove 10mm Ground bolt on clutch cable bracket
- Fully loosen clutch cable and remove
- Disconnect back up light switch wires (two on front side of tranny)
- Disconnect starter (one 12mm nut holding power, and a tab connector)
- Remove speedometer cable by pulling small clip under rubber boot.
- Remove 10mm bolt holding speedometer sensor in tranny and pull/set aside the speedometer sensor. I usually set it on the rear crossmember.
- Remove two 14mm bolts holding the starter in the tranny and set the starter down. If you can’t get it out, it will be easy once you have the passenger side axle pulled.
Under the car:
- Drain transmission fluid (3/8" socket type bolt on bottom of tranny)
- Remove x-member brace
- Remove passenger side splash shield
- Remove lower fork from shock and control arm (makes things easier)
- Remove 32mm spindle nut from passenger side axle. It’s easiest if you have an impact gun.
- Pull cotter pin from both lower ball joints (each side). Loosen the 17mm castleated nut (DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY). Then either use a hammer and hit the LCA right where the ball joint goes through it till it frees itself or use a ball joint puller.
- On the passenger side, lift up on the knuckle/hub assembly and as you turn it out of the way you’ll push the axle out of the hub. If it’s frozen you may have to use a hammer. DO NOT MUSHROOM THE TIP OF THE AXLE THOUGH. Too much hammering WILL do this. I know from experience. If it’s rusted solid, spray it with some liquid wrench and let it sit for awhile.
- Use a pry bar and pop the passenger side axle out of the transmission and set it aside.
- Remove 17mm nut from front of radius rod (inside the front of the crossmember). You’ll need a 17mm deep socket.
- Remove the two 17mm bolts holding radius rod to LCA.
- Remove the two Engine/Transmission stiffeners( 2 17mm bolts and 3 12mm bolts).
- Remove the flywheel cover (2 12mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts)
- Using an 5mm punch and a hammer, drive out the shift linkage pin.
- Remove 12mm bolt holding the shifter stabilizer bar to the transmission and slide the shifter stabilizer bar off.
- Remove two 17mm bolts going through the bottom of the block into the transmission (one on each side).
- Remove two 17mm bolts holding the rear “L” bracket to the transmission.
- Use a prybar to seperate the driver’s side axle from the intermediate shaft.
- Lift up on knucke/hub assembly and pull the axle out of the intermediate shaft. Get a box and set the knuckle/hub/axle up and out of the way.
- Remove 3 14mm bolts holding the intermediate shaft bearing holder to the back of the block and slide the intermediate shaft out and down from the transmission. Set it aside.
- Break loose but don’t remove all 17mm transmission bolts (should be 4).
- Remove front tranny mount by first pulling the 17mm special bolt out of the center and then the two 17mm bolts that hold it to the transmission. For the bottom one you’ll need a 17mm wrench.
- Remove the 17mm bolt going from the bottom side of the side transmission motor mount bracket into the motor mount.
- Put a jack with a 2x4 under the transmission and jack it up to relieve the stress on the tranny mounts.
Back up Top:
- Remove 17mm bolt near where the starter was that goes through the black “L” bracket and the top of the transmission.
- Remove the 17mm nut and bolt on top of the passenger side motor mount.
- Remove the long 17mm special bolt that goes through the motor mount.
- Remove all but one of the loose 17mm transmission bolts. I usually leave the one at the top right corner as you are looking from the passenger side.
- Lower jack slowly allowing the motor and transmission to “tilt”. You’ll notice the passenger side transmission mount will be “free”. Pull it out of the way and set it aside.
- Use something to set the block on in the “tilted” form and remove the jack completely.
Back under one more time:
- Finally, go under the car and while holding the transmission up, remove the final already loose 17mm bolt or have a friend do it.
- Gently slide the transmission towards the passenger side and once it’s free of the clutch, down and out of the engine bay. It weighs about 80lbs., so it’s not that bad. You can use a jack if it makes you feel more comfortable.
That’s it. I know it sounds difficult, but it’s not that bad. Give yourself about 3-4 hours to complete the task if you have never done it before. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you sir. Always nice and detailed as usual. Any tips when putting the tranny back in? Thanks again.
HOLY CRAP G2Guru… this definately deserves an * archivethis *.
Thanks… the info will likely help more than a few people.
~Eric
once again you are the man with all the answers.
Hmm putting it back in…I usually hold it up with a jack and just wiggle and woggle until it lines up.
HTH
Ken
Hey… I’m trying to drop my tranny as we speak… And I can’t get it down past the little bar I call the “radius arm” ??? It goes from front crossmember to passenger side lower control arm… HELP!!!
remove that arm and it will come right out. and you will have plenty of room to work.
Thanks guys… I got it out… but guess what? The clutch was on CORRECTLY. Which means that I still don’t have a clue as to why the throwout arm has no resistance on it…
If you have a Type-R clutch do you hafta have a type-R flywheel?
Some dude sold me this clutch and said yea the B-series clutches are all the same, just difference between hydraulic vs. cable throwouts… I think maybe the flywheels are different???
Anybody with a clue give me a shout.
Harry