lol. he’s getting pulled in too many directions now. the nature of internet diagnosis.
what you need to do is start with a flow chart for testing. don’t start throwing parts at this until we’ve circled the problem.
i’m going to read these posts when i get home and hopefully, instead of brainstorming, we can all come to some sort of conclusion. we’re not even sure the ecu is the problem. let’s calm down and figure this out
[QUOTE=rnoswal;2165105]What exactly is wrong with the car? You just said the engine works fine, distributor woks, fuel works…etc. I’m assuming you have another thread somewhere?
Check out the following thread in this same electrical section to find out what I am trying to cure.
(The check engine light takes time to go out? HELP!!!)
If you have a DB2 and removed the b17a and replaced it with a b18a (assuming you hook up all the sensors properly, which is easy because they should just plug right in to the original harness) all you need to do is replace the p61 ecu with an obd1 pr4 and you’re done, it will run just like a factory rs/ls/gs of that same year. Like I said, this is basic. But that’s not to say that you don’t have another problem, or that someone didn’t screw something else up in the process.
Sort of random question, but do you know if the car is using the original engine harness? Does the wiring in the engine bay look hacked up? Engine harness is something that should NOT be changed. A 92-93 rs/ls/gs engine harness will not function properly when plugged into a GSR main harness (and vice versa).
No I don’t know about the harness, but I took some pictures and posted them in the other string. I am taking the car to a guy that is very familiar with these cars this saturday. I hope he will get this sorted out. This string here was just for me to find out about the ecu’s. Apparently there are some that have different opinions about that subject here. I am actually pretty good with cars, it’s just this one that has thrown me some. When I got the car it wouldn’t even run. The cams were out, the valves were way out of adjustment and several other problems. I have sorted them out to get the car running and have the car put back together mostly. It is just the starting issue I have that I am stumped about.
No offense to Welfare, but just ignore all the other posts, it’s garbage info that is confusing you. He was trying to help but as I’ve seen him do a couple times recently his intentions are good but he may not have the info to back it up. There are a lot of people on the forums who post things they “think” are true, or “make sense” to them which are then taken as truth - when they should be taken as speculation. I don’t expect you to trust me either, you don’t know me, so you have no reason to. But do some searching on your own, it’s REALLY easy. Between this forum, honda-tech.com and google you should easily have been able to find all of this info and then some. I’m not going to do it for you because I don’t have the time (the time I do have I spend searching for info regarding my own Honda questions).
Not as easy as Googling. There is a lot of onfo out there and some conflicting, so I ask you guys in here that have had a lot more experience than I have with these cars. I appreciate your input as well as the others, but it is still up to me to decide which info to use. I like a confident reply, but unless it makes a light go off or if it is a simple problem, then I try to get more than one opiniion. Most sites have a lot of info on Honda’s, but not near as much as the Integra’s. So thanks and check out the other line for my main problem. Maybe you might have a solution that seems to be hiding from everyone so far.
Thanks
Russ[/QUOTE]
Have you read any of my posts??? You haven’t responded to anything I’ve posted. Look at the Xenocron link, he’s one the top tuners/parts retailer in the country, his info is legit. Seriously, just look at my posts…
Not a P75 (I know it’d work 100% though), but Glynn is currently running a stock P28 (92-95 civic vtec) ecu with no problems/codes, and I have a Neptuned P61 for my car. I know the P61 will throw a code for the knock sensor for sure, but everything else is fine. I’ll try out my spare, stock P61 in my 92LS tomorrow and see if it throws any additional codes, but I’m sure it won’t. Also yea, once you get into chipped ECU’s it honestly doesn’t matter which one it is, as long as it has an OBD1 plug, and is chippable.
[QUOTE=welfare;2165112]lol. he’s getting pulled in too many directions now. the nature of internet diagnosis.
what you need to do is start with a flow chart for testing. don’t start throwing parts at this until we’ve circled the problem.
i’m going to read these posts when i get home and hopefully, instead of brainstorming, we can all come to some sort of conclusion. we’re not even sure the ecu is the problem. let’s calm down and figure this out[/QUOTE]
I think it’s just that he’s refusing to listen. His ECU problem is that he bought one for a 91, which is OBD0, he needs an OBD1 PR4 out of the 92-93’s. The Xenocron link I posted has all the ECU p/ns, and I posted the OBD1 PR4 M/T number, which is 37820 PR4 A11, when he bought an ECU ending in A10 (91’ ECU). So he did in fact get the wrong one.
FIN
[QUOTE=mrpenny;2165154]
Not a P75 (I know it’d work 100% though), but Glynn is currently running a stock P28 (92-95 civic vtec) ecu with no problems/codes, and I have a Neptuned P61 for my car. I know the P61 will throw a code for the knock sensor for sure, but everything else is fine. I’ll try out my spare, stock P61 in my 92LS tomorrow and see if it throws any additional codes, but I’m sure it won’t. Also yea, once you get into chipped ECU’s it honestly doesn’t matter which one it is, as long as it has an OBD1 plug, and is chippable. [/quote]
Yeah, I’ve done a lot of ecu swapping myself and ran vtec ecus in non vtec cars and vice versa. I’ve just never compared the different LS ecu’s
[QUOTE=mrpenny;2165154]
I think it’s just that he’s refusing to listen. His ECU problem is that he bought one for a 91, which is OBD0, he needs an OBD1 PR4 out of the 92-93’s. The Xenocron link I posted has all the ECU p/ns, and I posted the OBD1 PR4 M/T number, which is 37820 PR4 A11, when he bought an ECU ending in A10 (91’ ECU). So he did in fact get the wrong one. [/QUOTE]
Yeah, at least with the obd0 vs obd1 it’s obvious. If he gets an obd0 ecu off ebay its not even going to plug into his car so it’s impossible for him to even try to use it.